Hokkaido Winter: Addicted to Snow Travel

Maybe because it’s a place with nothing much, they just go ahead and sell that “nothingness”! That’s what I couldn’t help but think while walking through Hokkaido in winter.

 

With snow covering everything as far as the eye can see, the scenery is as beautiful as a postcard. The sunlight glimmers dazzlingly over the boundless white landscape, almost unreal. When Mr. Kento Furuichi, Chief of the Tourism Division at the Obihiro City Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Tourism Bureau, humbly said, “In winter, aside from snow, (Hokkaido) really has nothing,” he wasn’t being polite. During my trip to Hokkaido, more than once I heard locals say, “We’re so sick of the snow already. Why do you Taiwanese love visiting Hokkaido in winter so much?” It’s obviously meant as a joke, but behind it lies a genuine love for their land. The promotional mindset of the people in Hokkaido isn't about copying whatever others have. Instead, they strive to find added value even in what seems like a harsh environment. If there's only snow? Then let’s embrace the snow wholeheartedly.

 

Come to Hokkaido and dare to shout and laugh out loud. In this silent land, even your screams seem frozen before shattering crisply into the air, disappearing quickly like jingling bells. It’s both thrilling and exhilarating. Beyond dog sledding, try skiing, snow banana boats, snow rafts, and snowmobiles — speeding through the biting wind and snow, drifting or being drifted, starting off a bit timid and ending up laughing out loud. To fight the cold in Hokkaido’s winter, you’ve got to be bold and carefree.

 

For snow play beginners, we headed to Asahiyama Snow Village, located right next to the east gate of Asahiyama Zoo. This seasonal village, conveniently situated by the zoo and offering a variety of facilities, is perfect for family snow fun. Both the snow banana boat and raft are pulled by snowmobiles, using centrifugal force to create speed and an exciting sense of instability. Since it’s the first time experiencing these activities on snow instead of water, you don’t have to worry about capsizing — which is a huge relief. But just as you start to feel safe, the staff, knowing exactly what you're thinking, surprise you with a sudden spin. Everyone screams as the raft sweeps across the snow, sending up a spray of white flakes. Just when you think you might be thrown off, it never quite happens. The biting wind brushes against your face, wrapped up in layer upon layer, giving you a feeling of total abandon.

 

Here, you can also experience snowmobiles and snow groomer rides. Especially climbing aboard the giant snow groomer feels like riding an open-top truck in your childhood — only what you see all around is snow. As the groomer climbs slopes steeper than 30 degrees, amid the thrill, you gaze at distant mountains as withered birch forests and frozen landscapes gradually unfold before you, sparking a strange sense of comfort: “If I were born in Hokkaido, maybe in winter I’d be wearing snow boots, driving a snow groomer, living as a lumberjack or dairy farmer!”

After having fun at Snow Village, don’t miss Japan’s northernmost zoo, Asahiyama Zoo — especially its interactive exhibits, which pioneered the balance between ecological education and zoo management in Japan. And among them, the winter Penguin Walk is the highlight.

 

What began as a weight-loss plan for pampered penguins in the zoo unexpectedly became a massive hit.

Because visitors loved seeing the adorable penguins marching by as if they were heading to work. The main goal of interactive exhibits is to encourage animals to display their most natural behavior, but the penguins here walk calmly in line, as if clocking into work, all dressed up like they’re in suits — it’s truly amusing.

 

After mastering the basics of snow play, it’s time for the more physically demanding skiing experience. Gliding over the silver-white landscape, speeding through the snowy winds — “looking cool” might be the shallow reason, but it’s reason enough. But real life isn’t always that romantic. The freshly baked bread from the bakery at Shin-Furano Prince Hotel is especially tempting. I think it’s not only because of the rich, mellow aroma, but also because skiing leaves you absolutely starving. The Furano Ski Resort is located right next to the Shin-Furano Prince Hotel. With a 50-year history, this resort is one of the most versatile places for skiers of all levels. This time, we took on the beginner slope. At 6 a.m., before the crowds arrived, we practiced “walking” and “falling” at the base of the slope. Our ski instructor Kei started off cheerfully congratulating us: yes, the snowy winds may look dreary, but actually, this kind of snow is the best — not only pretty but soft, so even if you fall, it doesn’t hurt. At first, I didn’t quite believe him. But after a few falls, and eventually giving up and sitting on the ground, I realized Kei was right. Ski gear is heavy — just crawling in snow boots, crab-walking, sliding on your side, or practicing falls requires skill and lots of stamina. Halfway through practice, I was drenched in sweat. Suddenly, a group of elementary school kids zoomed past me. My competitive side kicked in, and I pushed myself harder. By the time we moved to the kids’ area for actual runs, I was ready to run away and find a restroom.

 

But the real fun was just beginning — how could I give up? In the kids’ area, we attempted two-part runs — starting from the top, we’d ski down in a pigeon-toed stance, adjusting speed using the back of the skis. Coaches were on standby to prevent us from going out of bounds or getting hurt. Those who did well continued down. At first, some coaches would crouch down to block the skis with their hands if things went too fast. Later rounds, they let us go freely. The tenser you are, the stiffer your body becomes, making it harder to stay balanced. So the instructors kept reminding us to relax: “Relax, relax!” But the tenser you are, the tighter your muscles get, the quicker you tire, and the harder it is to loosen up. It’s a vicious cycle. In the end, I had to tell Kei, “I’m out of energy — I guess I’ll just have to relax now.”

If skiing is too tiring and snow rafts too basic, why not try dog sledding? Before trying it, I had all sorts of romantic fantasies: a silent winter scene on the white expanse, with rows of birch trees along the horizon, and a team of huskies racing across the land, only the sound of sleigh bells bringing you back to reality. But when I actually joined the Mushing Works dog sledding experience and saw the small, skinny dogs, I felt a pang of guilt. The dogs barked nonstop at people, almost making me want to back out. The instructor later explained that Hokkaido sled dogs are of Russian breed — they naturally look more like hunting dogs than sled dogs. As for the barking? Totally overthinking it. The dogs bark because they associate the sled with the joy of running freely — they’re so excited they can’t contain themselves. Once I got on the sled, it turned out he was right. Even while waiting, the dogs were restless. The moment the instructor’s snowmobile took off, the dogs dashed forward like they’d spotted the postman’s bike. It’s not at all like the leisurely image of sitting comfortably in a sled, enjoying the snowy scenery. First, you stand at the back of the sled, like on a snowboard, steering by tilting the front rail and slowing down by digging your heels into the snow. Sometimes the dogs get tangled in the tether, requiring you to slow down skillfully to untangle them. Other times they run too fast, causing the sled to swerve. You need time to learn the basics of control. But while controlling the sled, you also have to stay relaxed — if your body is too stiff, the dogs will sense your anxiety and get restless. Being scared and shouting will only frighten them. But those are just minor details. Once you actually try it, your whole perception of dog sledding changes. Ever seen Initial D? This is the manhole-cover drift technique — sled edition. The field is a vast plain and forest, and the sled dogs follow the track made by the snowmobile. But the snowbanks along the trail curve upward, so when the dogs run too fast, the sled suddenly lurches up onto the snowbank — it’s thrilling. But riding the sled feels amazing. The dogs charge forward with total focus. Amid the cold rush of speed, silence isn’t lonely. The scenery is breathtaking, and both humans and dogs are solely focused on “running,” minds as clear as snow. The usual experience covers 6 km, but we only did 1.5 km — we wanted more.

 

The outdoor activities alone could fill volumes of stories. This Hokkaido trip also included experiences like the Ice Waterfall Festival, Elf Huts, Snow Village winter activities, Ainu ice cup making at Lake Nibetsu, farming horse races, Liyue pastry decoration, Kirarin Hana light shows, and of course, delicious meals made with local produce and seafood. Even better, there’s the skin-beautifying amber-colored plant-based hot spring — especially the Tokachi Hot Springs, known as Japan’s most iconic plant-based hot springs. A winter this long, yet a journey that feels all too short. The season has shed its chill, but my longing for winter is stronger than ever — the first time I’ve ever felt this way.

Address: 25, 31st Line, Nishikamui, Shari Town, Katougun, Hokkaido, Japan. The experience location may be subject to change, and there is no base camp at this site. Please confirm the meeting point and transportation method when making a reservation.

Hours: For the 2013–2014 winter season, it is expected to operate every Friday to Monday from mid-February to late March. For details, please check the official website.

Email: dogdriver.takita@gmail.com

Website: www.inuzori.com

 

 

●  Further Reading:

Slow Travel in Hokkaido: A Journey Through Niseko Plains

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