Written by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler’s Journal
During the Jiaqing to Guangxu reigns of the Qing Dynasty, Daxi was once a distribution hub for river cargo along the Dahan River, enjoying a period of prosperity with many shops and foreign firms concentrated in Heping Old Street. During the Japanese colonial period, the "Urban Improvement Ordinance," which mandated that streets and buildings be neat and aesthetically pleasing, led to the decoration of old houses here with elaborate Baroque carved facades, creating the unique charm of Heping Old Street. Today, most of these old houses still retain their original appearance, and a stroll down the street reveals the spectacular sight of an entire row of carved facades.
The bridge offers a sweeping view of the rustic scenery of the Dahan River. (Image provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler’s Journal)
On holidays, you’ll find many shop doors tightly shut, while the arcades are lined with various stalls; there are also a few newly renovated storefronts selling trendy snacks or nostalgic antiques. But the most authentic local old shops are actually the woodworking businesses, where altars and religious wooden items are displayed—though they may feel a bit distant to tourists and are mostly not frequented by visitors.
Old dressing tables and vintage photos add to the antique charm of the space. (Image provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler’s Journal)
Yao Tea House
Located diagonally opposite Fu Ren Temple, Yao Tea House has a small signboard. The more eye-catching signs are those of “Xie Sheng Woodworking” and the tofu curd stall and wooden chairs with cartwheel designs in front of the shop. Although the front section of the old house was renovated in the 1980s along with neighboring buildings, its imitation antique exterior still retains some of the old street’s charm.
As soon as you step into Yao Tea House, you’ll see the circles of tofu curd, vegetarian duck, and vegetarian chicken arranged on round bamboo sieves—a classic photo opportunity for visitors. But next to them, there’s only one large wooden table, an office desk, and a few wooden chairs, making you wonder if this is really a shop. However, the real highlight lies in the middle and rear sections of the old house. This long, narrow old house extends sixty to seventy meters, with only the front section renovated; the middle and rear sections remain in their original state. As soon as you step inside, it feels like entering another world—truly a place of hidden depth.
A quiet corner in the inner courtyard. (Image provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler’s Journal)
The dining area is mainly located in the middle section, with a wooden staircase leading up to a small loft furnished with three glass round tables made from large wooden fish stands originally used in temples. Below the loft, a small Japanese-style room has been added, behind which are low tables set on red bridal beds. Window seats face a quaint and elegant inner courtyard scene, exuding a serene atmosphere. The walkways are lined with antique wardrobes, chests of drawers, and dressing tables, along with other nostalgic items, all relics from the grandfather generation. The black-and-white photos on the walls, capturing old times, add even more vintage charm. All the wooden tables and chairs are crafted by Xie Sheng Woodworking.
Tofu curd that is repeatedly simmered and then cooled is both flavorful and delightfully chewy. (Image provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler’s Journal)
This restaurant, operated by Xie Sheng Woodworking, was originally intended to be a tea house named after its owner surnamed Yao—hence the name “Yao Tea House.” Unexpectedly, customers often got so full from tea that they asked if there was any food available, so the shop began offering home-style meals without a fixed menu. Over time, it developed a regular menu. Now operating for over a decade since 1999, it’s considered a pioneer among Daxi’s businesses transitioning into tourism.
The head chef, Mr. Yao, primarily works in woodworking. His sister, Ms. Yao, explains that after their mother passed away, as Mr. Yao was the most talented cook in the family, he took over the kitchen, while she and her sister-in-law handle customer service. Though he lacks formal culinary training, his commitment to authentic traditional cooking methods has earned accolades—even having his tofu curd selected as part of a banquet dish by the Sheraton Hotel. Yao Tea House has also become a private dining spot where former Taoyuan County Magistrate Eric Chu brought friends for meals.
Homemade chicken rolls, served steaming hot and fragrant right out of the fryer. (Image provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler’s Journal)