Text by TRAVELER Luxe / Reporter Lu Wanlin
“A long, long time ago, someone accidentally came upon an injured white crane dipping into a hot spring. Its wing wounds gradually healed, and before long, it soared into the sky…” The innkeeper, who helped me change into a yukata, spoke softly as she recounted this ancient tale, leading me along the hot spring street lined with willow trees. In ancient times, people embarked on hot spring journeys to heal wounds, but today, I found my own little healing hot spring getaway in the San’in region, gazing across the clear steam rising from the baths.
The banks of the Oigawa River in Kinosaki Onsen are lined with swaying willows. Slip into a yukata, don some geta, and soak in the full charm of the hot spring town. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe)
Spring cherry blossoms, autumn foliage, summer greens, and winter snow—just the colors alone tell the different moods of Japan’s seasons. But the one thing that transcends all seasons and captivates travelers year-round is nature’s gift: hot springs. Japan’s hot spring culture is deeply intertwined with daily life. Beyond offering a relaxing soak, hot springs are also considered therapeutic—and this isn’t just hearsay. From ancient myths recorded in historical texts to modern scientific research on hot spring minerals, it’s been proven that a hot spring bath is not only enjoyable but also beneficial to health.
A Soaking Journey X Kinosaki Onsen
Kinosaki Onsen, which has been open since the Heian period, boasts a history of about 1,300 years and was known during the Edo period as the “Number One Hot Spring in Japan,” famous throughout the country. The hot spring town here is rich in atmosphere. After checking into my ryokan, the innkeeper helped me into a yukata and urged me to go out for a walk while there was still daylight. So I strolled through the hot spring town in my geta, the rhythmic clacking of my wooden clogs accompanied by the swaying willows along the Oigawa River. Most of the people I saw were tourists wearing yukatas and carrying towels, exploring the town’s seven public hot springs. After nodding hello to an elderly couple who emerged from behind a noren curtain, I entered the “Ichi-no-Yu,” said to bring good fortune and luck, letting the mineral-rich waters soothe my longing for a hot spring experience.
Next to Kinosaki Onsen Station, you can see the wooden geta provided by various inns. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe)
One soak in Ichi-no-Yu wasn’t enough. When my warm, post-bath body met the chilly air, I greedily decided to try the “Tori-no-Yu,” the first of Kinosaki’s public hot springs to open. It’s said to have miraculous healing effects for external injuries. If I had more time, I’d love to try all seven public baths. But even just sampling a few, along with foot baths, hand baths, and drinking fountains—all classic Japanese hot spring features—was enough to deeply enchant this hot spring enthusiast.
Kinosaki Onsen is also beloved by men of letters. Literary figures such as Naoya Shiga, Kyoka Izumi, and Akiko Yosano have all left their footprints here. The hot spring town also features several cultural walking trails, allowing modern visitors to follow in the footsteps of the past and experience the beauty of Kinosaki Onsen.
Kinosaki Onsen is close to the Sea of Japan. Visiting in early autumn means you can be among the first to enjoy the delicious taste of autumn crabs. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe)
Thermal Therapy X Misasa Onsen
With its serene hot spring town and riverside open-air baths, Misasa Onsen boasts a beautiful hot spring ambiance—but it’s even more renowned for the high concentration of “radon” in its waters. Radon can activate metabolism and naturally boost the human immune system, which is why many medical universities and hot spring research institutes have set up facilities here, considering it a premier therapeutic hot spring destination. Aside from soaking in the baths like usual, visitors can also head to institutions affiliated with medical universities and enter steam rooms to “breathe in” anti-aging benefits.
Misasa Onsen is rich in minerals, and it’s said that drinking it in moderation can even improve stomach ailments. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe)
Additionally, the spring water here is colorless and odorless, and rich in minerals. Drinking it in moderation has been shown to significantly help with digestive disorders, which is why Misasa Onsen attracts not only typical sightseeing bathers but also many long-term stayers who come for health improvement.
Climb up Mount Hino in the early autumn morning to admire the ever-changing sea of clouds and sunrise. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe)