A Hokkaido landscape woven by trams & bikes

Text by TRAVELER Luxe Lin Qinhui

 

After the long, harsh winter of snow and cold, Hokkaido’s spring and summer feel all the more precious and radiant. Welcoming the seasons are fields of competing blossoms and vast natural vistas, as if aware of how fleeting northern summers are—this landscape, interwoven with lush greenery and brilliant colors, strives to shine in all its glory during spring and summer.

In Hokkaido, take a train to your desired destination, then eagerly hop on a bike as soon as you get off, enjoying the freshest air and most splendid scenery for the purest, most relaxing time possible. This is the most delightful way to explore the region in spring and summer. On this trip, we visited eclectic shops and cafés scattered across Hakodate, took in the undulating natural pastoral landscapes of Niseko, and ended up in Kushiro to soak in the rich phytoncides in the air, strolling at a slow and leisurely pace, hearts full of emotion.

Elegant European-style port town, Hakodate

Rent an electric bicycle from the LOISIR HOTEL near Hakodate Station, then head about four kilometers northeast to the Goryokaku area. The Goryokaku Tower, which opened in 2006, stands next to Goryokaku Park. Climb the 90-meter observation deck to take in the star-shaped structure of the park from above, especially captivating in early spring when adorned with pink cherry blossoms. Along the way, visit the café Pibrey tucked in a corner of the park. Floor-to-ceiling windows let in an abundance of greenery, which takes on hints of cherry pink in early spring. Order a pizza and the morning-only “Ohnebo Set” (sleep-in set, including two rolls, vegetables and fruits, yogurt, and a drink). The aroma of freshly baked pizza wafts through the air, with crispy crusts paired with soft interiors. Savor the satisfaction in a laid-back atmosphere.

After saying goodbye to Pibrey, head west to the Motomachi area. You can also rent a yellow bike from BAY Hakodate if you choose to start here. First, go to Green Island across from the Kinendo Red Brick Warehouse, taking in the view of red bricks set against blue skies and the river. Then slowly bike back, passing the historic warehouse complex over a century old. Originally long warehouses for merchant ships to dock and unload goods, as the port’s role declined, these elegant red-brick buildings have transformed into modern culinary and shopping spaces, now home to dozens of boutique and specialty shops—perfect for browsing and buying.

 

As you stroll around, you’ll often come across charming slopes that sometimes stretch toward the sea or climb up hillsides, filling the air with romance. On both sides of the street, unique little shops and elegant cafés are scattered around. Wander freely, stopping wherever catches your eye. The area features many eccentric buildings that blend Japanese and Western styles, including the grocery store Iroha. Built in 1908, Iroha features a nostalgic Japanese-style first floor paired with a striking Western-style second floor—an unusual and charming design. The shop focuses on Japanese-style lifestyle goods, offering an array of tableware, sundries, kitchen items, and other everyday objects—it’s easy to get lost in the thrill of shopping.

Enjoy the thrill of speeding downhill, Niseko

The rolling valleys of Niseko are covered with premium powder snow in winter, making it a skiing destination. When spring and summer warm the region, it transforms into a paradise for outdoor activities like canoeing and biking. The thrill of speeding downhill on a bike is exhilarating. Here, you can skip the grueling uphill climbs and purely enjoy the rush of descending. The Niseko Town government has set up seven free bike rental spots and planned four biking routes. Using local buses, you can carry your bike uphill for just 100 yen per trip (limited to two bikes)—effortless and cost-effective.

 

After renting a bike in front of Niseko Station, we chose the Niseko Hills Farm Route. We took a bus up to the Hotel Amaranth, using it as our starting point. The smooth downhill sections not only bring joy and relaxation but also present endless fields and flower seas that continuously shift with the crops—sometimes lush green, sometimes golden rice fields alongside purple potato flowers and green vegetables in perfect harmony, truly a feast for the eyes.