【Monday Gourmet】Peach Blossom Grove Chinese Cuisine: Exquisite Creations Rooted in Creativity

Chef Chan Wai-keung’s dishes are impressively well-rounded. In the world of Cantonese cuisine where fusion is king—especially in Hong Kong, a melting pot of cultures—it’s common to see elements from various regions and even countries blended together. Yet, while Chef Chan innovatively reinterprets traditional dishes, he also stays true to their roots. The result is a symphony of bold flavors and vibrant presentation, perfectly balanced like a harmonious piece of music with distinct yet complementary layers. “You can’t rely on just one recipe everywhere. Wherever you go, you need to use local ingredients and consider the local palate. I’m not some Tai Chi master—people aren’t here to watch me perform. You can’t force others to accept your tastes. You have to adapt to the time and place, and not be too rigid.” Chef Chan explained with a smile. Perhaps it’s his selective persistence that adds a sense of harmony between tradition and innovation, resulting in more rounded and satisfying flavors. What stands out isn’t just the layers of texture and taste—the spirit of his cooking extends to engaging all five senses, showcasing creativity within delicacy, making the dishes both visually and sensorially captivating.

 

This approach may stem from his personal journey. In the 1970s, he started as a waiter at Hong Kong’s renowned restaurant Xiang Man Lou. He joked that it was because the manager kindly advised him, “You’re not good with words, not quick on your feet, and not great at English—might as well learn a skill so someone will still hire you at 60.” That’s how he began his journey in Cantonese cuisine. After four or five years at Xiang Man Lou, he moved between several restaurants, learning to cook abalone here, roast squab there—“I met a lot of mentors along the way.” Later, he went to Singapore, where over two decades he worked at restaurants under the Tong Lok, Jade Group, and Summit Club, before moving to hotels like the Westin and Shangri-La across mainland China. Beyond the Chinese-speaking world, his career also took him to Indonesia, Thailand, South Korea, and Japan. A self-proclaimed “man of the water,” he loves good food, travel, and making friends—all of which being a chef allows him to do. He enjoys learning and thrives on exchanging ideas. “Like when I learned Three-Cup Chicken from my kitchen colleagues!” Rather than superficially incorporating Western elements, he integrates life experiences and learnings from various places, infusing his dishes with artistry based on flavor. The new dishes Chef Chan specially developed in Taiwan break away from conventional Cantonese thinking, drawing inspiration from diverse regions without being confined by geography. They blend textures and layers, creatively returning to local flavors, delivering an exciting experience rooted in classic techniques.

Take the signature Sweet Wine Floral Cod, for instance. Among the few high-end Western ingredients familiar to Taiwanese diners, such as cod or aged beef, Chef Chan knew locals loved cod and thus created this dish that looks Western, tastes Japanese, and is layered with Chinese finesse. Made with a Japanese-style sauce of sake, mirin, Kikkoman soy sauce, fruit juice, and butter, the cod is lightly marinated and seared to a crispy skin, leaving a delightful miso aftertaste. The Japanese elements combine to create a “mock umami” that’s more refined than miso yet better highlights the cod’s delicate flavor. The scrambled egg base is equally thoughtfully prepared. Chef Chan wanted a simple, refreshing side that complements the main dish, has an appealing texture, and differs from Western poached eggs. Inspired by Shunde’s famous Da Liang Stir-Fried Fresh Milk, the scrambled egg dish was the perfect choice. Paired with crisp American asparagus and drizzled with homemade Japanese-style sauce, the flavors blend East, West, and Japan, yet each remains distinct, creating a dish as visually striking as it is delicious—a perfect balance of tradition and creativity.

Chef Chan’s attention to detail often leaves diners both enchanted and wondering, “What other secrets am I missing?” Take his two health-focused dishes—Signature Soup Claypot Shark Fin and Health-Conscious Millet Oat Sea Cucumber. Cantonese cuisine always features premium broth, but Chef Chan’s broth goes beyond richness with thoughtful minimalism. For instance, he substitutes Jinhua ham with pork leg. “Imported Jinhua ham these days is just salty with no umami, and it smells moldy—better not to use it.” Instead, he simmers yellow-feathered chicken and dried scallops with pork leg for seven hours, then thickens the broth to make the shark fin soup. But why is it so yellow? “Take a guess what I added,” Chef Chan asked with a smile. It’s pumpkin purée. By skipping the overly salty Jinhua ham and using the sweetness of pumpkin purée to enhance the natural richness of the chicken and pork, the broth becomes less greasy, wrapping the shark fin in a rich, sweet, and clear soup that highlights its crisp, tender, and delicate flavor.

Health-Conscious Millet Oat Sea Cucumber breaks away from the traditional heavy oil and salt-based cooking methods for sea cucumber. Chef Chan’s premium broth serves as the base, allowing the sea cucumber’s crisp texture to speak for itself. Additionally, to promote health and enhance texture, millet and oats are added to the broth. “Taiwanese usually cook millet into porridge, but I add it to the soup without turning it into porridge—it adds a nice crunch and nutrition,” Chef Chan explained as he skillfully deboned the sea cucumber for us. A sip of the savory broth followed by the sea cucumber offers a progression of flavors—from freshness, to crispness, to a lingering sea essence. Sea cucumber is known to lower blood lipids, but its upscale image often leads to heavy, oily preparations. Here, Chef Chan bravely simplifies the dish, pursuing a lighter beauty that masterfully balances health and flavor.