Written and photographed by Lai Yiting; compiled by Yang Yuzhen

 

"This tree is planted by me, this road is built by me. If you want to pass, leave your toll." This classic line from TV dramas also echoes through the mountains during the annual "Grass Mountain Ancient Trail Miscanthus Flower Season" hiking event. By chance, I played the role of a cross-dressing mountain bandit for a month over three consecutive years, leading visitors through a time portal to experience the stories of ancestors who traveled back and forth between Taipei and Yilan along the ancient trail to make a living. These tales sparked my own beautiful encounter with the Grass Mountain Ancient Trail.

Besides interacting with visitors, what I found most unforgettable about the Grass Mountain Ancient Trail was the companionship of the blue sea, blue sky, green grasslands, and wild fields. Of course, I also experienced the unpredictable mountain weather that the ancestors encountered—bright sunshine one moment, thick fog and torrential rain the next, leaving everyone drenched. Yet, the trail’s pleasant natural scenery and cultural sights still captivate visitors. The inn ruins along the trail are one of the popular spots because the organizers, considering the ever-changingweather in November, kindly prepare hot ginger tea, making it a great place for visitors to rest and take photos. The inn’s waiters here are also the biggest crowd favorites. The current inn ruins were once resting stops for travelers on the Grass Mountain Ancient Trail. Though now only broken walls remain, the stone railings and stone steps in front of the ruins have turned emerald green. But the strong sense of history always draws me to pause. Whenever a gentle breeze sweeps across the trail, I feel as if I’ve returned to that time two hundred years ago, feeling the spirit of the ancestors who trekked with hardship. I can also imagine the scene of warmly greeting inn waiters taking a break along the way. Reflecting on the past and present is truly moving.

A joyful journey filled with culture and scenery

Walking from Kengkou for about 50 minutes brings you to the "Yakou" pavilion on the Grass Mountain Ancient Trail. There stands an ancient stone-built temple dedicated to the Earth God. An elderly local from Yilan once told me, "Don’t underestimate this Earth God temple—it provides shelter for travelers here and soothes the hearts of merchants and travelers who passed through the ancient trail in the past!" Every time I step onto Yakou, above the Earth God temple, and feel the strong winds at the top of the trail, I seem to understand the origin of the name "Grass Mountain Ancient Trail." Because of the year-round strong winds, tall and sturdy trees struggle to survive, so only resilient miscanthus grass can take root here.

Especially in November, when the northeast monsoon strengthens and miscanthus flowers fill the mountains, you often have to hold onto your umbrella or hat tightly when passing through Yakou. Otherwise, you’ll inevitably hear startled cries from travelers: "My hat’s flying away!" Along the trail, amidst the dappled tree shadows, there’s also clear and refreshing stream water. When the sun is shining brightly, roll up your sleeves, take off your shoes, step into the water, and enjoy the cool and refreshing sensation from your feet—it’s one of life’s greatest pleasures. And if you bring a delicious Fulung bento box, it’s even better. (But a small reminder: please remember to take your trash and plastic bottles down the mountain to leave a beautiful environment for the next explorer!)

 

Every time I revisit the Grass Mountain Ancient Trail, it reminds me of my grandfather. My grandfather loved hiking and traveling with his friends, but he would always sigh after each trip: "The trails we walked today weren’t well maintained at all—how could they even be called roads? Why were they so hard to walk on?" But the Grass Mountain Ancient Trail is one that values environmental protection and actively preserves historical relics. It’s common to see visitors having picnics by the stream with Fulung bento boxes or taking photos with heritage sites like the Tiger Character Stele and the Towering Smoke Over the Barbarians. I think if my grandfather had the chance to hike this trail, he would have highly praised the Grass Mountain Ancient Trail. It’s not only suitable for hikers—some visitors even ride folding bikes for a leisurely trip. Some netizens have even organized online "outdoor pet meetups," gathering groups to explore the beautiful trail with their beloved pets.

 

The Grass Mountain Ancient Trail holds a special place in my heart. Visiting here every year feels like meeting an old friend. I hope everyone can find a beautiful ancient trail that resonates with their heart and truly experience the happiness this wonderful island brings with their “heart.”

 

[Info]

Grass Mountain Ancient Trail

Transportation:

[Public Transport] Take the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle Golden Fulung Line or take the train to Fulung Station, then walk along the trail for about 3.5 km to reach the entrance of the Grass Mountain Ancient Trail.

[Driving] Take National Freeway 1 to Provincial Highway 62 toward Ruifang, drive straight to the end, then connect to Provincial Highway 2 (coastal highway) to Fulung, and follow the trail to reach the Grass Mountain Ancient Trail.

》http://www.mook.com.tw/article.php?op=articleinfo&articleid=10448