
Text and photos byHappy Cloud
The variety of trains across Japan is truly fascinating; last year, I rode the super adorabletai (sea bream) train (Me de Tai Densha, めでたいでんしゃ)to Kada. This train is so cute it could make anyone smile just thinking about it.

I’ve previously shared with you all about the delicious food in this little fishing village,including the giant seafood platter bigger than a face,<and a very unique place full of traditional Japanese hina dolls—"Awashima Shrine" (あわしまじんじゃ).Actually, near the Kada fishing port, there’s another special spot: Tomogashima (友ヶ島), a small island located in the Seto Inland Sea on the western side of Wakayama Prefecture in Japan. It’s said to be the setting of the Castle in the Sky from Studio Ghibli’s movie.

Before leaving the station, don’t forget to stock up at this little convenience store!! I heard the island we’re heading to doesn’t have any shops.

If you get hungry, you won’t be able to buy anything at all; it feels so primitive!!

Walking into the Kada fishing village and heading toward the pier, there really are no shops at all.

It’s only when you reach the pier that you’ll find another tiny convenience store selling basic items; suddenly, it gives off an adventurous vibe.

Unfortunately, the weather today is really not great; especially while the boat was traveling to the island and while we were exploring, if the weather had been nice, you can imagine how beautiful it would be.

Tomogashima is a group of uninhabited islands in the Seto Inland Sea National Park, located in the Kitan Strait, consisting of four islands: Okinoshima, Toshima, Jinoshima, and Kamishima.

Generally, when people refer to Tomogashima, they mean "Okinoshima." From the Meiji period, to prevent foreign fleets from entering Osaka, the Japanese military built gun batteries here, turning it into a military fortress.

Civilians were prohibited from entering the island, and it’s even said that it was erased from maps—it was incredibly mysterious... It wasn’t until after World War II, when the military equipment was removed, that it was opened to the public; the island still retains many military ruins, attracting tourists to visit.

In 1986, Studio Ghibli released the animated film "Castle in the Sky," which depicts humans creating high-tech flying cities and fortresses, but after a crash, humanity returns to living on the ground. The last remaining flying city, "Laputa," becomes a legend hidden in the clouds, yet many still try to find this dreamlike city...

The red brick ruins hidden among the trees here seem similar to the anime world’s Castle in the Sky, "Laputa." The mysterious atmosphere attracts many Studio Ghibli fans, and perhaps that’s why this place has become the real-world “Castle in the Sky.”

Due to its historical background, it also attracts those who love history and military sites. But apparently, for locals, it’s a summer playground where people come for hiking, picnics, barbecues, swimming, camping, and more.

Back then, boats were completely packed because each ferry had a passenger limit, and you had to get a numbered ticket in advance to board.

Today, the weather isn’t great, but it actually adds a different kind of mystery. There are five gun battery ruins on the island, but due to the weather, we could only choose a short hiking route and visit a limited number of places.

Maybe, on a future lucky day with good weather, I’ll come back to properly explore this mysterious island.

When the boat arrived at the island’s pier, everyone started disembarking. Kids were pointing at the sea with Japanese I couldn’t understand, as if they saw something.

It piqued my curiosity too, and it turned out there were quite a few jellyfish floating on the surface of the water. I wonder if they’re poisonous?

After checking the map at the island’s signpost, I got a general idea of where I could go. There are mainly five gun batteries and one lighthouse.

Let’s head straight to the most impressive spots—the Third Battery and Tomogashima Lighthouse!!

The island retains its pristine natural beauty, and on a sunny day, it would surely be a fantastic spot for forest bathing.

With the endless blue sea in view, it promises to be a wonderful hiking and walking journey; unfortunately, today it’s raining, and there’s a strong sea breeze.

Amidst the wind and rain, we visited the real-life version of the “Castle in the Sky”—haha, quite a test of the imagination!!

Along the way, we also came across the only guesthouse still open on the island. By the seaside, a group of young people were having a barbecue—it felt like a vibrant way to holiday.

We also saw parents bringing their kids here for a stroll; this truly is a local travel destination.

With fewer foreigners around, it felt very Japanese—perhaps this is the kind of “hidden gem” that Taiwanese people always love!! Haha

Built in 1872, Tomogashima Lighthouse is Japan’s eighth lighthouse, featuring Western-style architecture and a white exterior.

On a clear day, it must be stunning!! It’s said that the lighthouse is still in operation, continuing to guide ships at sea.

The Third Battery is the largest and best-preserved of the five batteries, often seen in movies and various magazines.

The red-brick building has a retro, nostalgic charm—it’s said to be the remains of an ammunition depot; on a sunny day, it would be a great spot for photos!!!

These tree-shaded red bricks, staircases, entrances... many corners make for excellent photo spots; beyond the historical stories, the scenes here are highly dramatic—even in the rain, it’s hard to leave, making you want to take just a few more shots.

The red-brick ammunition depot is completely unlit inside—haha, once you step in, it sparks endless imagination, but watch your step!!

Now I understand why the shop at the dock specially sells flashlights—the inside is so dark you can’t take photos. If you get the chance, friends, come see it for yourselves!!

The abandoned houses were once dormitories; though dilapidated, this kind of ruin beauty attracts photography enthusiasts, and a few Japanese visitors stopped here too.

Following the island’s signs and trails, we weaved through the woods and occasionally caught glimpses of the coastal scenery.

With the rain falling and the wind blowing, it was hard to associate the scene with the world of Miyazaki’s animations.

But visiting a quintessentially Japanese travel spot is still a rare experience!!

On a rainy day, parents and kids exploring these historical ruins is both play and education—perhaps understanding one’s own country through these small details is something not to be missed!!

Without backtracking, we made a little loop around “Okunoshima,” a place full of character.

The military relics here are different from those in Taiwan, yet they still feel somewhat familiar—if you’re a military enthusiast, you’d probably want to check it out.

You can’t help but admire the Japanese marketing prowess; an animated series drives regional tourism. Though it’s not my first visit to a real-world location from a master animator’s world, there are indeed some echoes—but leveraging imagination and packaging to boost tourism is truly impressive!!

But interestingly, they’ve preserved the area’s original look, striking a nice balance between commercialization and authenticity.

If you’re in Wakayama next summer, do come check out this mysterious yet familiar place!!!

For those who need related information, please help yourselves.
Tomogashima
http://www.wakayamakanko.com/china_h/sightseeing/nature2.html

Tomogashima Ferry Company
http://tomogashimakisen.com/
Fare: Adults: 2000 JPY (round trip), Children: 1000 JPY (round trip)
March–November Ferry Schedule: 09:00 am / 11:00 am / 13:00 pm / 16:00 pm
(Additional departures at 10:00 am and 15:00 pm during 4/28–5/6 and 7/20–8/20)
December–February Ferry Schedule: 10:00 am / 15:00 pm (boats run only on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays)
*Service suspended from 12/29 to 1/3 *Closed every Tuesday and Wednesday*
It takes about 20 minutes by boat from Kaita Port. The ferry schedule (4y) varies with the season, so be sure to check the timetable in advance.

How to get there: In Osaka, take the Nankai Limited Express from Namba Station on the Nankai Electric Railway to Wakayama City Station, then transfer to the Nankai Kada Line to Kada Station. It’s about an 11-minute walk from there to Kada Port.


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