The turkey rice in Chiayi’s market — paired with a half-boiled duck egg — is absolutely delicious!

Text & Photos /Mr. Three Highs

This year’s Dragon Boat Festival trip to Chiayi and Tainan allowed me to rediscover the joys of Southern Taiwan’s cuisine. Although Tainan has many famous snacks, Chiayi has always been a place I think is worth visiting multiple times — even if it’s just for the street food, it’s totally worthwhile.

Every time I come to Chiayi, I have to eat turkey rice at least once, no doubt about it. Actually, many Taiwanese people lack a basic understanding of the culinary cultures across our little island and often end up looking down on their own cuisine. For example, some go to Japan a couple of times, then come back to Taiwan and start badmouthing local food, as if foreign food is always better — all without ever truly appreciating what Taiwan has to offer.

Ah Xi’s Turkey Rice is missing the “fire” character (like Dongmen Turkey Rice), but there’s no need to doubt that what you’re getting in Chiayi is indeed turkey. Located in what feels like a morning market, Ah Xi has a very local vibe, with aunties and moms waiting outside to take food away.

While waiting for a hearty breakfast to arrive, I saw what looked like the boss — a guy — preparing cooked turkey, slicing huge turkey legs. I don’t know why, but I love watching these scenes, even though it’s not my first time.

I ordered a portion of turkey wings, and the boss said they could be deboned. It was actually my first time trying deboned turkey wings. A big plate of white-cut turkey wings, served with mashed garlic and sweet soy sauce — that’s all it is, so simple. The turkey wings not only have thicker skin and more gelatin compared to chicken, but also more meat. Deboning them makes the texture even better, the skin slightly smooth and sticky, the lean meat tender and fragrant. It’s really tasty — though it would be even better if the veins were cleaned out more thoroughly.

The turkey slices in the rice are all from the breast, the meat fibers tender and juicy, with a bit of chewiness. The overall level of doneness is just right. So far, my favorite turkey slice rice was the one I had on my second-to-last visit to Chiayi, from Bo’ai.

The white rice, along with the seasoned oil, salty or soy-sauce flavorings, is also a key element in making turkey rice delicious. Each place has its own unique style. Ah Xi’s turkey rice gives off a more integrated feel than the turkey slice version. Though I’ve tried a few other turkey rice places outside of Chiayi, and some weren’t bad, this bowl here highlights a crucial difference: the aromatic fragrance and natural sweetness that turkey brings out. After a few bites, add a half-boiled duck egg — absolutely delicious.

A hearty breakfast really energizes you (time to go back to the hotel and sleep). Ah Xi is definitely a great spot!

Ah Xi Turkey Rice
Address: No. 356, Ren’ai Rd., West District, Chiayi City
Business Hours: 5:30 AM – 1:30 PM (Closed Thursdays)

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