A UNESCO World Heritage Site in perfect symmetry with the lake waters — Japan’s Byodoin, nearly a thousand years old near Uji

Text & Photos / Buji

This time I didn’t do much research before the trip. The night before arriving in Uji, I quickly searched online for places to visit and found that the UNESCO World Heritage Site “Byodoin” and“Ujigami Shrine”were both not far from the station. Since I hadn’t been there before, I thought I might as well check them out. Honestly, when I browsed the photos, I didn’t have high expectations. But when I saw Byodoin in person, I felt lucky to have come. The entire structure was truly beautiful, beyond my expectations — an aesthetic experience that photos just can’t convey.

Afterenjoying various matcha dishes at Tsujiri Honkan Main Store,we walked along the road and eventually reached Byodoin Omotesando (Uji Old Street), then strolled toward Byodoin.

The omotesando is adjacent to the Uji River. Though only about 100–200 meters long, it still took us half an hour to stroll through. All kinds of matcha products, tea houses, and quaint little shops made it easy to get distracted from our destination. There’s also a branch of Tsujiri on the omotesando, where you can enjoy matcha while admiring the view of the Uji River. Additionally, the Marukyu Koyamaen branch is also located on this street.

Finally breaking away from the temptations of the shops along the omotesando, we caught sight of the main gate of Byodoin (a transportation map is included at the end of the article).

Admission requires a ticket: 600 yen for adults, 400 yen for junior and senior high school students, and 300 yen for elementary school students. The ticket features the most famous building of Byodoin — Phoenix Hall. To enter Phoenix Hall itself, you’ll need to pay an additional 300 yen.

The vermilion red color of the main gate is quite eye-catching. In fact, just a few years ago, all the buildings in the complex were still the more muted dark brown of untreated wood, which likely gave off a stronger historical vibe. However, after extensive renovations, when the site reopened in 2014, the main gate and Phoenix Hall were adorned with these majestic colors.

Along the omotesando inside the complex, the diverse postures of the large trees add even more elegance to the overall landscape.

There are two large wisteria trellises in the compound (one is shown in the photo above). It’s said that the trees are up to 280 years old, and when they bloom in season, the sight is absolutely stunning. Unfortunately, we visited in winter, so the branches were bare and somewhat desolate. This place is also a famous wisteria viewing spot in Kyoto.

The path through the compound is simple. As you can see from the picture, the visiting route is just a loop around Ajikan Pond. If you don’t stop for breaks, photos, or to explore buildings, you can probably walk the whole loop in just over ten minutes.

Built in 1052 (nearly a thousand years ago!), Byodoin started as a villa for the nobility and is one of Japan’s early wooden structures. The most iconic and beloved building in Byodoin is the one facing “Ajikan Pond.” Originally named Amida Hall for enshrining the Amitabha Buddha, it was later renamed Phoenix Hall because the building resembles a large bird with wings spread, and features a pair of golden bronze phoenix statues on the roof.

Phoenix Hall is located in the middle of Ajikan Pond, and you have to cross the small bridge shown above to access it.

The weather that day was perfect — blue skies, the building, and its reflection combined to look like a painting. No matter how you shoot it, it’s beautiful.

Actually, what makes Phoenix Hall famous is its symmetrical architectural structure, the asymmetry of the lake, and the reflections in the water. But the symmetrical structure is only clearly visible from the front.

Buji didn’t manage to capture a fully symmetrical shot, and at the time there was wind, which created ripples in the lake, so the reflection wasn’t very clear. Still, you can tell from the photo above that the building is truly stunning.

According to some sources, Byodoin has rich historical and artistic value, which led UNESCO to designate it as a World Cultural Heritage Site in 1994. The design of Phoenix Hall is even engraved on the 10-yen coin, and a pair of phoenixes symbolizing the hall are printed on the 10,000-yen note. It’s not hard to see how much the Japanese cherish this place.

▲ The design of Byodoin Phoenix Hall is engraved on the 10-yen coin

Shot against the backlight, the sun casting over the roof of Phoenix Hall has a uniquely enchanting feel — I really love this photo.

Walking along Ajikan Lake, you can admire Phoenix Hall from different angles. No matter how you look at it, it’s beautiful.

Phoenix Hall is open for interior visits, but you’ll need to pay an additional admission fee. Buji and company only viewed it from the outside on this trip. They later felt a bit regretful — if time and budget allow, and since you’re already there, it’s recommended that you go inside. It’s said there are guides who can give explanations.

Following the visiting path, you’ll come to another very modern facility in the complex — Hōōdō Museum (Hōshōdō). It houses and displays most of the religious artifacts that were originally in Phoenix Hall, including the golden bronze phoenix, numerous Kannon statues, temple bells, and more. However, photography is strictly prohibited inside. Those who wish to see these treasures will have to visit in person.

Upon exiting Hōōdō Museum, there is a bell tower outside, but the bell inside is a later replica. The original is housed in the museum.

Although Byodoin isn’t very large and doesn’t take long to tour, it’s definitely worth a visit. The garden landscaping and architectural aesthetics are truly astonishing — refined and elegant. While exploring the compound, Buji couldn’t help but think of another World Heritage Site, Kinkaku-ji (whose lake reflection is also a favorite among photographers). However, compared to Kinkaku-ji’s delicate, dainty charm, Byodoin’s architecture has a broader, more majestic feel, with a more open and bright landscape. Personally, I prefer this place. For those visiting Uji, be sure to walk around here after enjoying your matcha.

※ For itinerary planning in Uji, you can refer to:Half-day Stroll in Uji: Escape the Urban Hustle—This Is the Perfect Getaway (Includes Transportation, Map, and Suggested Attractions)

※ Information Related to Byōdō-in
■ Address: 116 Uji Renka, Uji, Kyoto Prefecture
■ Transportation: About a 10-minute walk from Uji Station on the JR Nara Line; about a 10-minute walk from Uji Station on the Keihan Electric Railway Uji Line.

■ Admission Fee:
1) Garden + Hōō-dō (Phoenix Hall): Adults ¥600, Junior & Senior High School Students ¥400, Elementary School Students ¥300
2) Phoenix Hall Museum (Hōō-dō Museum): ¥300
■ Opening Hours: Open year-round, 8:30–17:30, http://www.byodoin.or.jp/ch2/guide.html
■ Official Website: http://www.byodoin.or.jp/ch2/index.html

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