Greetings from a Coastal Drive Along the Sea in Kansai

By Li Zhishan     Photos by Li Wenqin

In the Pearl Sea of the Seto Inland Sea, where islands dot the landscape like scattered gems, along Japan’s coastline bursting with plump fish and succulent crabs, bid farewell to the gloomy winter. Ride the sea breeze along Kansai’s scenic coastal highways, cruise through a corridor of food and history spanning ancient and modern times, and embrace early spring’s delightful culinary moments with a heart full of joy.

In the season when the sea breeze still carries a chill, we visit the early spring coastline of Kansai. Rarely do we get to steer clear of Kyoto, Osaka, and Kobe during our travels. This time, we drive deep into elegant ancient towns and temples, as well as peaceful, serene rural harbors, to see the most genuine and gentle side of Kansai beyond the bustling crowds of tourists. From the sun-drenched Awaji Island, Japan’s largest Lake Biwa, to the waves of the Sea of Japan, the ocean and sky accompany us along the way. Cruising along the coastline blasting out-of-season summer tunes, savoring simple yet incredibly fresh seafood, and soaking in scenic seaside hot springs all make you want to slow down and embrace this treasure-blue sea brimming with happiness.

The Glassy Sea Blessed by Sunshine

Bidding farewell to the Western-style foreign residences on the hills and the dazzling Kobe Harborland, the scenery outside the car window is dominated by azure blue seas, with white offshore suspension bridges coming into view. The Akashi Kaikyo Bridge, which connects Honshu and Shikoku, stands majestically under the clear sky. Following the winding approach road that rises layer by layer, we cross the deep and beautiful Akashi Strait and arrive at the sunlit Awaji Island.

Awaji Island, where flowers bloom everywhere in spring, is also known as the “Island of Flowers.” With a high number of sunny days, a warm and pleasant climate, and numerous beachfront resort hotels, the air is filled with a leisurely holiday vibe. The Seto Inland Sea as seen from Awaji Island always boasts a strikingly brilliant sapphire blue, with sunlight sprinkling a layer of gold dust on the horizon and gentle waves sparkling like dazzling diamond dust. Driving straight from the coastal highway to Tokushima in Shikoku, the end of the Naruto Bridge offers a spectacular whirlpool spectacle due to tidal differences. Walk along the semi-open walkway for an elevated view, or take a sightseeing boat out to chase the whirlpools and experience the thrilling power of their spinning turbulence amidst the roaring sea.

Back on Awaji Island, take a short rest at the multi-purpose shopping complex Dōno Uzushio that overlooks the island. Nearby stalls waft the enticing aroma of onions, making your mouth water just from the smell. Blessed with abundant sunshine, Awaji Island is rich in onions and lemons. Local hamburger shops feature thick, juicy fried onions as the star of the show, with tender Awaji beef taking a back seat, paired with specially made spicy mayonnaise—the crispy texture has earned them top rankings in burger popularity polls multiple times. Beyond hamburgers, the mall sells a variety of onion products, including an onion vending machine. Try on a free onion wig, take a big bite of an onion sandwich, and merge with the bold flavors of Awaji onions.

Near the mall is the Awaji Puppet Theater, which specializes in Awaji Ningyō Jōruri performances. Alongside kabuki and Noh, Ningyō Jōruri is one of Japan’s important traditional performing arts. Huge wooden puppets are manipulated by three black-clad puppeteers, enacting classic plays such as the Genpei War. Awaji Ningyō Jōruri flourished with the support of the Tokushima Domain lord and at its peak, the island had as many as 40 theaters. The puppeteers skillfully portray the joys and sorrows of the puppets, bringing them to life as if they have souls—capable of sorrowful tears or drunken antics. Even visitors who don’t understand Japanese can feel the excitement of the story world through the puppets’ vivid movements.