The Heartwarming Master-Servant Bond from *A Simple Life* Comes to Life — The Fading Glory of Golden Phoenix Café

Text and photos by Ng Ka-fai / Excerpted from *Hong Kong Old Flavors: 50+ Hidden Laneside Eateries Loved by Locals* published by Mook Magazine

Critics say it was the director and cast that made Hong Kong film *A Simple Life* a miracle winner of multiple international awards, but I believe the tender and moving master-servant relationship portrayed in the film is also one of the reasons for its success. Some say such relationships only existed among the older generation and are rarely seen today, yet I encountered just that at Golden Phoenix Café.

Hearty and Solid Pineapple Buns
It’s said that Golden Phoenix Café was founded in 1956 by Mr. and Mrs. Yu at its original location on Taiyuen Street. Due to building demolition, the couple decided to retire and emigrate to the United States. “We had already settled down there, but our former staff kept inviting us back to Hong Kong,” said Mrs. Yu, now 78 years old, speaking with full vigor.

It turned out that a group of long-time colleagues couldn’t bear to part with their former boss. Acting on their own initiative, they rented a new shop and then asked the Yus to return and take charge. Known for her bold and straightforward style, Mrs. Yu didn’t hesitate for a second before deciding to return to Hong Kong with her husband. Since then, Golden Phoenix Café has fought its way back into the scene and has been operating on Chun Yeung Street ever since.



As Mrs. Yu recounted these past stories, her loud voice brimmed with boldness and ease, revealing not only the trust employees had for their employer but also the care the bosses had for their staff. The Yus’ loyalty and integrity were not just shown toward their employees, but also toward their customers — as can be seen in their signature pineapple buns. While pineapple buns from other bakeries may leave you feeling as if you’ve eaten nothing but air, leaving your stomach empty, Golden Phoenix’s version is hearty and solid, giving you a strong sense of fullness. This is all thanks to their traditional method of preparation.

By traditional, they simply mean getting back to basics, with “fullness” as the starting point. In the past, most people were poor and needed to eat to feel full. Golden Phoenix still holds this principle as its guideline in making bread. “Nowadays, bakeries aim for aesthetics and cost-saving by just making the bread bigger, not worrying about whether it’s filling. What’s the point if it’s not filling? We’d rather use more flour to make sure everyone is full — that’s how you treat your customers right,” said Mrs. Yu.

Patent-Pending Iced Milk Tea Without Ice Cubes
Another signature drink that reflects their commitment to quality is their ice milk tea without ice cubes. Golden Phoenix uses premium Ceylon tea leaves, which are not only more expensive than usual but are also stored for over a month to remove grassy flavors. After brewing and flavoring, the tea is chilled in the fridge. When an order comes in, it’s served directly from the fridge, ensuring every sip of the milk tea is consistently high-quality, unaffected by melted ice that would dilute the tea flavor.

This version of iced milk tea is not only the first of its kind in Hong Kong but also set a record of selling two thousand cups in a single day. Many competitors tried to imitate it, and it was so remarkable they even considered applying for a patent. When asked where the idea for ice milk tea without ice cubes came from, Mrs. Yu replied cheerfully, “It was thought up by the former head chef.” She never sought credit and instead attributed the idea to her staff — no wonder she earned their respect. Not only were the veteran employees loyal, but they also brought their sons on board, creating a multigenerational team serving in the café.

Yet, no matter how deep the bond, there always comes a time to part — just as in the ending of *A Simple Life*. Golden Phoenix couldn’t escape this fate either. Reports say the café’s lease will expire in 2015, and if the landlord raises the rent, they may have to close again for good. Don’t expect a reopening — after all, the Yus are advanced in age, and their children have no intention of taking over. So, while cherishing those around you, please also cherish Golden Phoenix.

[Golden Phoenix Café]
Address: 41 Chun Yeung Street, Wan Chai, Hong Kong
Tel: +852-2572-0526
Business Hours: 6:00–19:00
Even Celebrities Love It: Nick Cheung