The most authentic local Kyoto experience — the beautiful "Kamo River" in all seasons

Text and photos / Excerpted from *Stepping Through Kyoto’s Slow Time*By pseudo-Japanese MAYPublished by Kingwalk Culture Publishing

When it comes to Kyoto, aside from Kiyomizu-dera Temple, the "Kamo River" (かもがわ) is undoubtedly another place that needs no introduction. Stretching 31 kilometers through the city, the Kamo River roughly divides Kyoto into the central (Rakuchō) and eastern (Rakugai) areas, as well as separating various districts. The bridges that span the Kamo River and connect the lives of residents on both banks were built one after another starting from Nanao in the upstream area and extending northward, with the most historic being the "Sanjō Ōhashi Bridge," ordered to be constructed by Toyotomi Hideyoshi. It still retains many wooden elements and is marked with numerous carvings.

The Kamo River once frequently flooded and wreaked havoc. In the late Heian period, Emperor Shirakawa listed the "waters of the Kamo River" among his list of life’s frustrations. It wasn’t until large-scale river improvement projects were carried out in the 20th century — widening the riverbed and constructing weirs to control the flow — that the river’s violent flooding was gradually brought under control. Over time, it became a symbol of Kyoto. With its beauty and sense of daily life changing with the seasons, cherry blossoms bloom vibrantly along its banks in spring, cool breezes bring relief in summer, red leaves and golden ginkgo trees adorn the riverside in autumn, and a serene, chilly atmosphere prevails in winter. It has become a must-visit spot for both locals and international visitors.

Every time at the Kamo River, you’ll always see people freely engaging in leisurely activities, coexisting in the same space without feeling disturbed by one another. Nearby kindergartens sometimes lead children to play on the grass during sunny hours, letting them immerse themselves in nature. Groups of friends casually sit on the lawn or benches, chatting about all sorts of things. Others come to enjoy their own quiet moments or to practice musical instruments. The Kamo River is truly the best place to experience the everyday life of Kyoto locals.

The Kamo River also has a unique phenomenon known as the "rule of equal spacing along the Kamo River." Between Sanjō Ōhashi and Shijō Ōhashi bridges, from weekend afternoons to evenings, many people gather here. It’s said that no matter how many people come or how crowded it gets, couples and groups naturally form even intervals between themselves — ranging from wider gaps of around 3 meters down to as little as 50 centimeters. No matter how many people or how little space, everyone adheres to the principle of sitting equidistantly.

Giving each other appropriate personal space and not intruding on others' areas is a uniquely thoughtful gesture of the reserved and understated people of Kyoto. The *Kyoto Shimbun* newspaper even dedicated a report in 2011 titled "Talking Love Without Glancing Sideways" (*左右にせずに愛語り合う*), where reporters used tape measures to physically confirm the spacing between couples, verifying this fascinating social rule.

Additionally, from May to September every summer, restaurants along the west bank of the Kamo River near Shijō Bridge set up "yuka" (open-air platforms over the water), allowing guests to enjoy meals accompanied by a refreshing breeze and scenic views. This has become an essential and iconic summer experience in Kyoto.