Labor-intensive gourmet dishes in full glory — a Taipei Chinese restaurant revives authentic flavors

Text & Photos /Mi’er

Many years ago, "Fashion Chinese Cuisine" on Fuxing North Road in Taipei was arguably the hottest Chinese fusion restaurant of its time. Owner and head chef Jimmy Yeh not only had a way with words about food but also reimagined regional Chinese cuisines in a stylish manner, delivering uniquely delicious flavors. After staying under the radar for years, Jimmy felt that the evolution of Taiwanese Chinese cuisine seemed to have stalled. So, he made a comeback, quietly opening "Jimmy’s Mansion" on Anhe Road to reinterpret what he believes to be the most essential and genuine flavors of traditional Chinese food.

It hasn’t been long since Jimmy’s Mansion opened, yet it has already attracted many political figures, business elites, and food aficionados, all drawn naturally by the unmistakably delicious cuisine. Mi’er has known Jimmy for years, so naturally, she was delighted to taste his cooking again. But this time, the dishes at Jimmy’s Mansion were quite different from those at Fashion Chinese Cuisine. That’s because Jimmy is no longer fixated on innovating Chinese dishes — instead, he focuses on preparing traditional Chinese food using the finest ingredients. He insists on not using any semi-finished or processed products, creating everything meticulously from scratch. That means he renders his own lard, makes his own rice wine lees, ferments his own broad bean paste, and even purchases whole fish to cut and prepare in-house...

Many restaurants opt for ready-made products just for convenience, but Jimmy does the opposite. He laughs and says that in the beginning, his kitchen staff couldn’t understand why things had to be so troublesome. But now, they can all feel the care that goes into it, and there are indeed people who truly appreciate it.

And it shows. Many restaurants use carrots and other ingredients to imitate crab roe in their dishes, but Jimmy insists on shelling crabs and extracting the roe fresh every day to make dishes like crab roe noodles and crab roe xiaolongbao. The genuine umami flavor is undeniable once it hits your palate. Many of Mi’er’s friends who have tried it loved it. Jimmy told Mi’er, “After all these years of reflection, I just want to cook the traditional dishes I love and that taste good. Although whether something tastes good is subjective, I believe that if you cook with the same heart you had when you first started cooking for your close friends, your guests will know.”

The menu here is very simple — just a single sheet listing classic dishes. But Jimmy says that if there’s a dish not on the menu that he can make, he will still prepare it for guests. He also interacts with diners on-site to learn about their tastes and preferences. Word has it that many have already become regulars. Mi’er is honestly worried she won’t be able to get a reservation next time she wants to come...

Wild Mushroom and Goat Tail Bamboo Shoots is made by blanching goat tail bamboo shoots — which resemble flattened bamboo shoots — then tossing them with wild mushrooms for a refreshing, crisp, and tender cold dish.

The creatively presented Five-Spice Smoked Fish is made fresh from grass carp and served hot, not cold, allowing you to enjoy the fish’s natural umami.

Jimmy Yeh’s Crispy Skin Chicken is prepared by steaming first and then deep-frying, resulting in a crispy skin that gives way to juicy meat. It’s even more delicious when served with scallion oil and spiced salt.

The orange juice served here is so fresh that even the ice cubes are made from orange juice, ensuring the original flavor lasts till the very last sip.

The rarely seen Sichuan specialty "Lamp Shadow Beef" — named for how thinly sliced and almost translucent the beef is — is a complex dish. Jimmy presents its savory, spicy, numbing, and tender flavors in a modern style.

Chopped Leek Nest Pancake is filled with plenty of chopped leeks, and the addition of cellophane noodles makes it extra juicy.

Resembling a cake, the Scallion Pancake is made using a semi-scalded dough technique, making it crispy and elastic. One bite fills your mouth with the rich aroma of scallions.

Mapo Tofu may seem simple, but it involves quite a few steps in preparation. Jimmy’s version can hold its own even against Iron Chef Chen Kenichi’s Mapo Tofu.

Shepherd’s Purse Cod is a dish where you can distinctly taste the fresh, delicate fragrance of shepherd’s purse, which complements the tenderness of the cod beautifully.

The open kitchen might give off the vibe of a Western restaurant, but actually, Jimmy’s Mansion serves Sichuan-Yangzhou cuisine.

The menu is very concise.

The space is clean and minimalist, free from the usual noise of traditional Chinese restaurants.

Jimmy’s Mansion
Address: 1F, No. 118, Section 2, Anhe Road, Taipei City
Phone: 02-2736-1999

Author: Mi’er. After graduating from National Chengchi University’s Department of Chinese Literature, she dove into a career as a food journalist. Coupled with growing up under the guidance of her chef mother, she has a highly attuned palate. Not only does she love eating, but she also enjoys cooking. Her work often takes her across the country in search of great food, which she shares on her blog and through organized group food outings. She is the author of the book "Group Food Tasting Reports."
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