The Mysterious Cave Dwellings of Spoon Spoon Guests & Frontier Cuisine with Desert Flair

Reported by Cai Mengxiu / Taipei

China is vast in territory, and its diverse climates and customs have given rise to distinct regional cuisines. Shaanxi cuisine is one delicious gem worth trying. Nestled in a lane on Ren’ai Road in Taipei, Spoon Spoon Guests serves authentic Shaanxi dishes. With its unique “fragrant and sour” flavor profile, it offers an entirely new culinary experience, while the cave-like interior design lets diners fully immerse themselves in the bold spirit of the desert.

▲ Spoon Spoon Guests is tucked away in a lane on Ren’ai Road. Located near a residential area, it’s not very conspicuous, but it’s a well-known Shaanxi restaurant. (Photo / Reported by Cai Mengxiu)

The term “Spoon Spoon Guest” refers to master chefs from northern Shaanxi with extraordinary culinary skills, particularly those from Lantian County, which has produced generations of cooking masters and is hailed as one of China’s three great culinary hometowns. Historically, Shaanxi was the capital of 11 dynasties, including the Qin, Han, Sui, and Tang, making its chefs renowned since ancient times. The region’s famous dishes—Yangrou Paomo (lamb soup with flatbread), Tang-style imitation dishes, and Jiaozi Banquet—are known as the “Three Wonders of Qin Cuisine.”

Spoon Spoon Guests brings these iconic Shaanxi dishes to Taiwan in their original form, with the Beef Paomo being a must-try. Paomo is actually a type of baked flatbread, also called tuotuo bing. This dish even earned praise from Northern Song poet Su Shi, who wrote, “In Long, there’s bear jerky; in Qin, it’s lamb soup,” referring to this very dish (Paomo was historically known as yang tang or lamb soup). As it is a Halal dish, it primarily features beef and lamb flavors.

The meal starts with a piece of Paomo, which diners must tear into small pieces. The chef then cooks them in a pot of broth. When served again, the bread has absorbed all the rich flavors. But the highlight is the broth itself—“rich in ingredients, deep in taste, fresh and savory”—its most distinctive feature. Tender beef shank in the pot, paired with broth-soaked Paomo, creates an exceptional texture, making it a rare Shaanxi dish rarely found elsewhere.

▲ Also called tuotuo mo, Paomo is a common food in northwestern China, made from unleavened dough and baked until very hard, making it easy to preserve. It is usually eaten with a bowl of soup or torn into pieces and softened in the broth before eating. (Photo / Reported by Cai Mengxiu)

▲ “Rich in ingredients, deep in taste, fresh and savory” perfectly describes the broth of Paomo. As this dish originated from Western Region cuisine, it is a Halal dish, typically made with beef or lamb, often using beef with connective tissue. (Photo / Reported by Cai Mengxiu)

Next up is “Spicy and Tangy Shredded Potatoes,” a slightly spicy and sour dish that’s very appetizing. At first glance, the shredded “potatoes” may look like bamboo shoots, but they are actually potatoes. A Spoon Spoon Guests staff member explained that the shredded potatoes are soaked in ice water to remove starch before being stir-fried quickly over high heat and finished with a drizzle of vinegar. With minimal seasoning, the taste is refreshingly clean. Since potatoes are called “tudou” (earth beans) in some parts of China, the dish is also named tudou si (shredded earth beans), despite having nothing to do with peanuts.

▲ The star of this dish is shredded potatoes—not actual “potatoes” as misunderstood—and it’s slightly spicy and sour, making it very appetizing. (Photo / Reported by Cai Mengxiu)

If you feel the main dishes lack a side of rice or noodles, try the Small Onion Lamb Noodles. Braised lamb is paired with tender, melt-in-your-mouth carrots, then garnished with scallions and cilantro. The noodles are coated with the restaurant’s signature broth at the bottom, and when mixed with the springy noodles, the flavor is deeply satisfying.

▲ Small Onion Lamb Noodles combines braised lamb with soft carrots, then adds scallions and cilantro for flavor. The noodles are tossed with the restaurant’s special broth, resulting in a richly flavored dish. (Photo / Reported by Cai Mengxiu)

Spice lovers shouldn’t miss the Cumin Lamb Skewers. The skewered lamb is slow-roasted and then deep-fried until crispy, sprinkled with cumin powder for a fragrant finish. The lamb’s gaminess is completely masked, making it ideal for those who usually avoid lamb due to its strong smell.

▲ Roasted, then fried, and seasoned with cumin, this dish loses all of lamb’s gamey odor—a truly Western Region specialty, perfect for those who fear the smell of lamb. (Photo / Reported by Cai Mengxiu)

Finally, there’s the Grilled Bone Ribs. Their brick-like appearance hints at their generous portion size. These ribs are best shared among several people and should be eaten as soon as they’re served, otherwise the meat can dry out and become tough. Upon serving, Grilled Bone Ribs come with knives and forks. Once sliced, you’ll see the meat is still juicy. Take a bite, and the crispy, pepper-seasoned crust crackles in your mouth, mixing with the tender meat inside for a flavor that lingers—this is a rare Shaanxi delicacy.

▲ The Grilled Bone Ribs arrive looking like a brick and are a must-order at Spoon Spoon Guests. Paired with special pepper powder, each bite leaves a lingering fragrance. (Photo / Reported by Cai Mengxiu)

The story behind Spoon Spoon Guests is a touching one. Staff say the owner, Li Yingying, went through many ups and downs in life, which inspired her interest in traditional Chinese medicine and cooking. She traveled alone to Shaanxi to learn the local cuisine, spending three years on the Loess Plateau. After returning to Taiwan, she opened her first Shaanxi restaurant.

Once considered a problem child by her parents, she studied abroad in middle school, repeated high school, and failed university entrance exams. She became withdrawn, and at one point was thought to have mental health issues. After major setbacks, she even wandered the Golden Triangle. Her life turned around when she became a bartender, reigniting her passion for cooking and herbal medicine, leading her to study in Shaanxi and eventually open Spoon Spoon Guests.

▲ The dessert here isn’t available to walk-in customers—you must call ahead to reserve it. The dessert is called “Mongolian Fried Milk Tofu.” Since Taiwan doesn’t have yogurt, the recipe is different. Spoon Spoon Guests coats cheese in pastry dough, fries it, and sprinkles it with powdered sugar. The crispy crust, salty inside, and sweet outside make it utterly delicious. (Photo / Reported by Cai Mengxiu)

▲ The Steamed Milk Bun is also quite tasty. Though it’s a more common dessert, we won’t dwell on it too much. (Photo / Reported by Cai Mengxiu)

This hidden Shaanxi restaurant in a quiet lane offers historic frontier flavors. Next time you’re nearby, take a detour into the alley and enjoy the thrill of feasting like a rugged desert dweller in a cave-like setting. And don’t forget to book ahead for the restaurant’s signature Mongolian Fried Milk Tofu dessert to complete your culinary adventure.

[Spoon Spoon Guests]

Address: No. 15, Lane 41, Section 2, Ren’ai Road, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City

Business Hours: Lunch 11:30–14:30 | Dinner 17:30–22:00

Phone: 02-2351-7148

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