Japanese cuisine in constant evolution — this time infused with French culinary flair

Instantly seared and smoked Australian beef tenderloin delivers a burst of juicy flavor, priced at 320 RMB. (Photo / Hachibei)

Rare chicken neck meat (second from the right) is also part of Hachibei’s new menu offerings. (Photo / Hachibei)

Christmas & New Year’s Seafood & Meat Deluxe Set Meal (3480 RMB) features skewers including chicken thigh heart skewers, chicken cartilage skewers, chicken neck skewers, golden chicken meatball skewers, Australian wagyu sukiyaki skewers, and zucchini skewers. (Photo / Hachibei)

When it comes to Japanese food, it seems everyone considers themselves an expert. Even in Taiwan, if you ask people to name a few Japanese dishes, most can rattle off options like tempura, sushi, sukiyaki, and curry rice with pork cutlet. In fact, “Japanese cuisine” (washoku) is a relatively modern concept. During the Meiji era, various cuisines were introduced to Japan, and to distinguish these different styles of food, the term washoku came into use. The awareness of Japanese cuisine as a distinct category also began to take shape during this period.

Japan is particularly adept at integrating external influences with its own culture and refining them through superior techniques, ultimately making them its own and developing a unique set of values and essence. Especially in terms of food culture, Japan has engaged in continuous exchange across diverse regions, constantly selecting, adapting, and blending elements — eventually forming what we now recognize as “Japanese cuisine.”

As times have evolved, so too has the face of Japanese cuisine, becoming more colorful and diverse. In Japan, there’s something called “washoku-yōshoku” (Japanese-style Western food), where Western dishes are reinterpreted with Japanese aesthetics — examples include Neapolitan spaghetti, tonkatsu sandwiches, and curry rice omelets. Many chefs also create refined dishes that transcend national boundaries, all while rooted in the Japanese soul. Such cuisine not only sets trends but also showcases Japan’s meticulous craftsmanship and sensitivity to seasons and detail.

“Hachibei Hakata Yakitori,” which has two branches in Taiwan, infuses Japanese cuisine with French DNA by launching seven dishes suffused with romantic French elegance. This new menu was designed by Hachibei’s Japanese head chef, Masamasa Ogata. Each dish is vibrant and elaborate yet retains the essence of Japanese refinement, showcasing exceptional skill.

Among them, the “Instantly Smoked and Seared Australian Beef Tenderloin” fully demonstrates the chef’s magical technique. The tenderloin from the chuck roll has low fat content, and overcooking can easily make it tough. Chef Ogata first sears the beef at high heat to lock in the juices, then smokes it with walnut wood chips to impart a rich flavor. The accompanying sauce is a bold Argentinean pesto, which, when paired with the hearty beef, helps cut through the richness and brings a fresh, sweet note. Meanwhile, the “Leaf Crab True Sweet Potato Balls,” which appear to be authentic kaiseki cuisine, are elevated with caviar and Parmesan cheese, adding a touch of luxury and allure.

Even with the new dishes, Hachibei hasn’t forgotten its roots in “skewer-making.” The “Christmas & New Year’s Seafood & Meat Deluxe Set Meal” went on sale starting December 20. This set gathers popular skewers along with luxurious new creations. In addition to eight fan-favorite skewers, diners can enjoy five new dishes in one go: leaf crab true sweet potato balls, chicken neck skewers, green asparagus roll skewers, charcoal-grilled Boston lobster with garlic butter, and wagyu tongue curry rice. For those looking to savor French-Japanese fusion that transcends borders, Hachibei is definitely worth adding to your must-visit list.