The charming alleys of Yonghe are home to the happy birds that come bearing coffee.

Photos & Text / Mazhi Bear (Mr. Neurotically Unstraight Bear Blog)

The first time I met Mr. Yamada was in a building near Yonghe’s No. 4 Park. Back then, Yamada Coffee T2 was still more of a workshop, with several large display shelves neatly arranged with various KONO equipment. Though the space was a bit cramped, you could still feel the meticulous professionalism of the Japanese.

That small workshop used to be filled with all sorts of interesting people. Mr. Yamada would travel to different places to try out various beans and constantly experiment. But those days are over now—because the business has grown, the small workshop can no longer accommodate it, so Mr. Yamada had to find a new place for us. That’s how Yamada Coffee came to be.

The relocated Yamada Coffee T2 not only still displays the full range of KONO equipment neatly, along with Blue Mountain coffee from Jamaica’s RSW Estate, but Mr. Yamada has also added a secret weapon to realize his vision for coffee. I think the future Yamada Coffee T2 will thrive even more.

But really, none of that matters much to people like us—as long as there’s good coffee, that’s enough.

Trained under the KONO headquarters, Yamada Kiyotaka has in recent years been continuously invited by various cafes to conduct a series of KONO-style drip coffee workshops. The KONO method of hand brewing involves an unbelievably long dripping process, which cleverly avoids the off-flavors of over-extraction while highlighting the rich, mellow taste of the coffee itself.

Just in terms of hand-brewing technique, Mr. Yamada’s method is truly something to admire.

The KONO method’s long dripping time also puts a certain demand on the roasting skills of the roaster. Since the extraction time is extended, any flaws in the roast are more likely to show. So personally, I think if you really want to brew using the KONO method, beans roasted with a hot-air roaster might be a bit easier to handle.

After years of searching, Mr. Yamada has finally found a stable source of green beans. Though the price is a bit higher, the quality is relatively consistent.

For example, the Tanzanian beans Yamada Coffee T2 got this year have a flavor that vaguely resembles Kenyan coffee, but with a more elegant acidity. The taste is mainly fruity, bursting with the sweetness of fresh fruit upon entry. The roast level, close to the second crack, brings out a more mature richness and well-developed body—truly some excellent beans.

Oh, and speaking of that, we also have to mention the Ethiopian Yirgacheffe they got this year. It has a bright, citrusy profile that lives up to the classic Yirgacheffe impression, with sweetness and floral notes both spot-on. The lingering sweetness in the aftertaste is delightful. However, the Kenyan beans I tried today might’ve been brewed a bit too early—the flavors hadn’t fully developed yet. While the floral and fruity acidity were quite Kenyan, the taste felt a bit thin.

Yeah, that’s my biggest problem every time I visit Mr. Yamada—I always end up drinking way too much.

Yamada Coffee T2 has a full range of KONO equipment, from siphon pots and cloth filters to hand-brew drippers. For coffee enthusiasts, this is the place to go for KONO gear.

Actually, ever since Mr. Yamada moved the shop here, he had planned to start a series of hand-brewing courses. But due to a lack of staff, things got too busy, and it didn’t happen. But now, with new team members joining at the end of this year, Mr. Yamada can finally start planning the courses. Apparently, the first class is definitely happening next year.

If it doesn’t happen, please flood their social media page with messages—one letter each or whatever it takes to get their attention (but only if they’ve set up a social media page first~~).

Oh, and don’t say I didn’t tell you—Yonghe’s Bo’ai Street may not look like much on the map, but lately I’ve gotten into the habit of taking a slow evening stroll from Dingxi Station just to soak in the unique charm of these alleys.

Especially in the evening or at dusk, the scenery here is truly enchanting.

[Yamada Coffee T2]
Address: 1F, No. 1, Lane 20, Bo’ai Rd., Yonghe District, New Taipei City
Phone: 02-8925-3770
Business Hours: 13:00–19:00 (Closed Tuesdays)

More great articles from “Mazhi Bear” can be found here: http://bear-oj.blogspot.tw/