Japan’s magnificent Kumamoto Castle, with cherry blossoms enhancing the ancient beauty of the fortress

Photos and text byXiao Hu’s Dream-Net

Everyone has different preferences when traveling to Japan, but what I hear most often might be chasing cherry blossoms or autumn leaves. But for me, Xiao Hu, Japanese cuisine and railways are more appealing. And if there's one more thing, it would be Japan’s ancient castles. Unfortunately, up to now, I’ve only visited Odawara Castle, and that was over ten years ago before I started my blog.

In other words, this is my first article about a Japanese castle, and I’m thrilled that it’s one of Japan’s Three Great Castles — “Kumamoto Castle.” I wonder if readers think a Japanese castle looks best with cherry blossoms? No worries — the moment of magic is coming...


MAGIC... Well, actually, it’s not really magic. It’s just that two weeks after I visited Kumamoto Castle, a girl at a 45-degree angle to the right also went — just a two-week difference — and by then, all the cherry blossoms inside and outside Kumamoto Castle had bloomed. Although I’m not that passionate about cherry blossoms, I have to say that with the cherry blossoms, Kumamoto Castle’s beauty literally doubled. PS: Thanks to the girl at a 45-degree angle to the right, who was still in Japan at the time, for quickly providing three photos of Kumamoto Castle in full bloom.

Before introducing the beauty of Kumamoto Castle, let’s briefly learn about this fortress known as the “Unburnable Famous Castle,” and also one of Japan’s Three Great Castles. (The other two are Nagoya Castle and Osaka Castle; another version lists the three as: Kumamoto Castle, Himeji Castle, and Matsumoto Castle.)

Kumamoto Castle (くまもとじょう), completed around 1469–1487, is one of Japan’s Three Great Castles. In 1591, Kato Kiyomasa began constructing the castle on the Chausuyama hill. Around 1600 (Keicho 5), the keep was completed. After the Battle of Sekigahara, Kiyomasa became the lord of Higo Province with a fief of 520,000 koku. In 1606, construction was finished, and the following year, the castle was renamed from Kumamoto to Kumamoto Castle.


Since Kumamoto Castle is a major tourist attraction in Kumamoto Prefecture, Kyushu, there are quite a few transportation options to get there. On the day we visited, we took a free sightseeing bus that runs between Jokanen and Kumamoto Castle (from 9 AM to 6 PM, every 7 minutes; in winter, it runs only until 5 PM). More detailed transportation info will be provided at the end of the article.


Basically, this bus goes directly to the Kihondate Gate. Once you get off, you can choose to explore inside the castle first or admire its external beauty. If you also plan to take a stroll around the outside of Kumamoto Castle — for example, visiting another famous nearby site, the “Former Hosokawa Yusai Residence” — then follow Xiao Hu as we first storm this so-called “most impregnable castle in Japan,” Kumamoto Castle, and then walk along the moat to the “Former Hosokawa Yusai Residence.”


That day, if I remember correctly, was a holiday but not yet cherry blossom season, yet the area inside and outside the castle was already about 70–80% full. It seemed that foreign tourists were fewer than Japanese visitors.


During the Seinan War, Kumamoto Castle served as an important stronghold for the government forces fighting against the forces of Saigo Takamori, who led the Satsuma Rebellion. However, before Saigo’s forces launched their attack, the castle’s keep unexpectedly caught fire. Though the flames were quickly brought under control, many important cultural artifacts and structures were destroyed. The restoration of Kumamoto Castle is still ongoing, and fundraising for its reconstruction continues, with each donation unit set at “10,000 yen.”

This fundraising campaign began in Heisei 21 (2009). Every person who donates 10,000 yen receives a “Castle Lord Certificate” and a “Castle Lord Voucher” the following month, and three months later, their name is displayed on a plaque inside Kumamoto Castle (I saw this when I visited the keep, but unfortunately forgot to take a photo).


It’s said that during your visit to Kumamoto Castle, you might occasionally encounter princesses or castle guards, but unfortunately, I didn’t come across any that day — it sounded pretty fun though.


After passing the tall and sturdy outer walls of Kumamoto, the entire majestic fortress comes into full view. I can’t think of any other word to describe it except “magnificent.”


Even though it wasn’t cherry blossom season yet, many people were already picnicking, having tea, painting, or participating in various activities inside and outside the castle, many with picnic mats.


Suddenly, a very cute mascot made a surprise appearance — too bad it wasn’t my favorite, Kumamon (the Kumamoto bear). And then came the moment of magic again...


Magic... Actually, this photo was sent back from Japan by the girl at a 45-degree angle to the right. It seems to be from Kumamon’s official website — isn’t it adorable? ... PS: During my trip to Kyushu, I took plenty of Kumamon photos. Later, I’ll combine them with the photos taken by the girl at a 45-degree angle to create a special Kumamon exhibition feature (lol).


In 1933, the ruins of Kumamoto Castle were designated as a Japanese Historic Site. In 1955, it was listed as a Special Historic Site. In 1960, to celebrate the 350th anniversary of Kumamoto Castle, Kumamoto City raised 180 million yen to rebuild structures including the main and smaller keeps and the turret. The castle park also began charging admission. The main keep interior serves as a museum. In 2007, for the 400th anniversary of the castle’s construction, some buildings were further restored.


During this trip (around March 16, 2014), there was only one cherry blossom that had bloomed early, both inside and outside Kumamoto Castle — the one visible in the photo to the left below the keep. Of course, I had to take a picture of it.


Is that a bit clearer now? As the saying goes, something is better than nothing... But don’t be disappointed, because it’s time for the third moment of magic... ↓


In this photo taken from roughly the same angle (by the girl at a 45-degree angle to the right on March 28), do you notice the only cherry blossom that hadn’t bloomed yet? (Actually, it had probably already wilted... it’s the one that had bloomed in the previous photo I took on March 16.) Comparing the two photos, isn’t it interesting? =)


Although there weren’t many cherry blossoms outside the castle, many Japanese people still came to visit. To be honest, although I’m not that into cherry blossom viewing, given the chance, I’d love to sit under a tree covered in blossoms, enjoying a delicious bento, some nice sake or matcha (lol), and ideally with a few good friends.


This photo was actually meant to capture my favorite “lantern,” but for some reason, I found the lantern hanging under the tree that reads “Kumamoto Castle” particularly charming.


After passing through what is said to be the entrance path that people used to take into the castle, you suddenly realize the grandeur of this fortress...


After passing through the passage, you reach the front of Kumamoto Castle — a vast square with a very tall tree, but it’s not a cherry blossom tree — it’s a ginkgo.


This massive ginkgo tree has an inseparable connection to Kumamoto Castle. It’s said that Kato Kiyomasa planted this ginkgo when he was rebuilding Kumamoto Castle, and by the time Kiyomasa passed away, the ginkgo had grown to the same height as the keep.


Later, during the Seinan War, when the keep caught fire, the ginkgo was also affected. Fortunately, its fallen seeds sprouted anew. Because of this ginkgo tree, Kumamoto Castle is also known as the “Ginkgo Castle.” These details are from the sign in front of the tree — I hope my shaky Japanese translation isn’t too off XD. PS: Another theory is that Kumamoto Castle was named after the many ginkgo trees planted inside and outside the castle.


Whether the legends are true or not, I sometimes think a place is even more beautiful with a story behind it, don’t you? Next up is this seating area where many visitors to Kumamoto Castle take commemorative photos — it’s also the best spot to capture the full front view of the castle.


Actually, Xiao Hu thinks this angle captures Kumamoto Castle at its most beautiful, but of course, that’s only when the cherry blossom tree in full bloom. Don’t worry if you share Xiao Hu’s regret—here comes the fourth moment of witnessing a miracle... ↓.


Isn’t it absolutely stunning? Although Xiao Hu didn’t see or take this photo himself, I think I can still feel the emotion of the girl at the 45-degree angle on the right.

Then let’s follow the girl at the 45-degree angle on the right as she steps back a few paces to view the beauty of the cherry blossoms alongside Kumamoto Castle from a wider perspective. Doesn’t it give off a sense of heroes and beauties? Notice there are two commemorative cutout boards for photos in front of the cherry blossoms and Kumamoto Castle.


Upon closer look, it turns out to be Japan’s legendary warrior “Miyamoto Musashi.” Curious, we asked Ms. Nabe (Yamadori) from the Kumamoto Tourism Bureau who was guiding us that day. She explained that Kumamoto Castle is the place where Miyamoto Musashi passed away.


Next, let’s go inside and visit Kumamoto Castle’s keep, which is also one of Japan’s Three Great Keeps.


Surprisingly, it’s free of charge... though the entrance fee was actually included when we entered the park, so it’s not entirely free either.


Inside the keep, there’s actually an exhibition hall dedicated to Kumamoto Castle, featuring quite a number of cultural artifacts that survived the fire.


There’s also a complete model of Kumamoto Castle in its heyday. You really can’t imagine the scale and grandeur of the castle back then from looking at this model.


An X-ray image of Kumamoto Castle XD. It also makes you marvel at the imposing scale of the castle when it was built, no wonder it’s counted among Japan’s Three Great Castles.


Inside Kumamoto Castle, there’s also a space where you can access all sorts of information about the castle through modern computers and the internet. There are also many interactive quiz-style games and educational activities that allow visitors to learn about Kumamoto Castle in a fun and engaging way.


How many of these famous Japanese castles have you visited?


I wonder if one day Xiao Hu will have the chance to feature all these castles on his blog =).


Another interesting spot is this place called the Otemon-dokoro (the former dining area of the castle lord). Nowadays, it’s open to the public for meals (though you might need to make a reservation the day before, as it’s first-come-first-served until full, with about 60 seats spread over the 1st and 2nd floors). It’s called “Honmaru Gosho.”


For more details and reservation information about “Honmaru Gosho,” you can check the Kumamoto Castle official website. The cost is 3,000 yen, and the serving time is from 11:30 to 14:00.


If you often watch Japanese historical dramas or period pieces, this scene will be very familiar to you—it’s where the castle lord would receive vassals, envoys, or hold meetings. It’s called the “XX-no-ma” (Room of XX), for example, in Kumamoto Castle, they’re named “Sakura-no-ma,” “Ume-no-ma,” “Tsuru-no-ma,” and so on.


It’s said that the lord would receive different people in different rooms, and each room had varying designs in color, decor, and even ceiling patterns. The innermost room with a golden ceiling was, of course, the most prestigious, reserved only for those of the highest status. In Kumamoto Castle, it’s apparently called the “Shokei-no-ma.”


This place is called a sukiya, or tea room. It’s said that in the past, every castle lord had their own personal tea master. One of the most famous was Sen no Rikyū, the tea master of Oda Nobunaga.


Overall, the tour route through the entire keep is very clear. By the end of the loop, you’ll have pretty much seen the whole Honmaru area and gotten a general idea of the ancient internal structure of Kumamoto Castle and the function of each room.


Next, we reach the highest point of the keep, just like the top of a sightseeing tower, where you can look out in all four directions and admire the beautiful scenery below Kumamoto Castle. Below are the views Xiao Hu captured from each of the four sides.

The last photo, the final angle, was something Ms. Nabe (Yamadori) specifically told us through the translator Mr. Wang Wen. The front is Kumamoto Castle’s “Ninomaru,” and in the far distance, on the mountainside, is another famous Kumamoto attraction, “Honmyōji Temple.” It’s said that this used to be the best spot to view Kumamoto Castle from afar—even back then, with just telescopes, you could see this far. PS: Honmyōji Temple was originally part of our itinerary, but unfortunately, we didn’t make it due to time constraints.


Speaking of Ninomaru, here’s a photo Xiao Hu took of “Ninomaru” from outside the castle. It must’ve been quite beautiful when the cherry blossoms were in full bloom.


The origins of Kumamoto Castle’s Ninomaru were, of course, initially to strengthen the defense system. It was also typically where the lord’s key retainers lived and defended the castle. The historical stories above are the tales of Ninomaru across generations.


Take a few steps to the left, and you’ll find the best viewpoint to see both Honmaru and Ninomaru. The castle walls and moat are also lined with cherry blossoms. As for the stretch of cherry blossoms that had the girl at the 45-degree angle on the right taking photos for half an hour before even entering the castle, she’ll have to share them with everyone once she’s back in Taiwan.


This is the view from inside the castle, walking along the moat bridge. Just imagine how beautiful it would be if those cherry trees were in full bloom.


When night falls and this whole row of lanterns lights up, the night cherry blossoms must be incredibly gorgeous too.


The view taken from the moat bridge—suddenly, I felt that even these newly sprouted cherry trees were quite lovely, offering a different kind of charm and vibe. But of course, that might just be because I personally love taking photos of bare trees XD.


Here’s a closer shot—you can clearly see this row of cherry trees just beginning to bud, with many students playing soccer beneath them.


There’s also a whole row of wild ducks playing in the water. Just imagine how beautiful it would be if the cherry blossoms on both sides were in full bloom... Too bad my lens isn’t up to the task—I could only get this close.


Although most of the cherry trees in the park outside the castle are only just budding, we’re lucky to have this one rule-breaking cherry tree that bloomed early, so we early visitors aren’t too disappointed.


Gazing at Kumamoto Castle from this single blooming cherry tree—well, at least it’s cherry blossoms with a castle, and even if it’s not perfect, it’s still quite the experience.


I don’t know what my quirk is, but I love watching girls under the trees look up at flowers and take pictures of them — it just feels incredibly beautiful.


To be honest, I’m not very good at taking flower photos, so after trying for a while, this one turned out the best. I’d like to share with you all the beauty of this early-blooming cherry blossom.


▲ Above is a schedule of the festival events at Kumamoto Castle for your reference. For more detailed information, please check the official Kumamoto Castle website.




▲ Road and parking map around Kumamoto Castle.


▲ Route map for the Kumamoto Castle sightseeing bus.

(Fare: adults 130 yen, children 70 yen). Also, the Kumamoto Bus one-day pass is 300 yen. Buses run from 8:30 to 17:10, with a 20-minute interval. PS: The one-day bus pass can be purchased on the Kumamoto City Sightseeing Bus, at the Kumamoto Transportation Center (train station, etc.), or at the Kumamoto Station Tourist Information Center.


【Kumamoto Castle】

Address:1-1 Honmaru, Kumamoto City
Opening Hours:8:30 to 18:00 (from January to March until 17:00)
Admission Fee:Adults 500 yen, children and students 200 yen; group tickets (40 or more people) adults 400 yen, children 160 yen. There are also combined tickets such as Kumamoto Castle + Shiro Yagura, Kumamoto Castle + Former Hosokawa Tadatoshi Residence. Kumamoto sightseeing bus, Kumamoto Castle, and Hosokawa one-year entry pass for 1000 yen.
Xiao Hu’s Dream-Catching Net
If “eating” is just about filling your stomach, then “food” would be far too boring~~~