Datengcheng Uncle's Old Dough Noodle Shop – A bowl of dry noodles with four sauces, perfectly savory and salty

Photos & Text byXiaohu’s Food Dream Web

I said to the uncle, “You’re getting older but staying strong, sharp-eared and clear-eyed.” He smiled and replied, “Heaven’s watching,” then added with a wave and a grin, “Just kidding,” before launching into tales of Datengcheng’s past. To be honest, I didn’t think he was joking — it really does feel like heaven’s watching to have preserved this old flavor in a corner that might otherwise gradually be forgotten.


Not long ago, while flipping through a book in a bookstore — forget who the author was — I came across the story of this “old noodle shop.” Right then, I sent the address to Ben, a member of our foodie group, and spontaneously added this noodle shop as a pre-Yilan “food stop.” Before setting off, I saw the address was “Section 2, Dihua Street” and assumed it was near Yansan Night Market. But much to my surprise, after walking all the way from Taipei Bridge and passing beyond Minzu Road, I still hadn’t found the place. That’s when I first learned that Section 2 of Dihua Street actually continues beyond Minzu Road… I’d always thought it ended at Minzu intersection.


After crossing Minzu Road… actually, it’s more accurate to say that Sections 1 and 2 of Dihua Street are almost like two different worlds. More precisely, Section 2 of Dihua Street still exists in the time and space of old Taipei. For example, houses like these are everywhere on Section 2, and whether to call it luck or sadness, several of them are still quite intact and livable. There are other parts of Section 2 where buildings have deteriorated so badly they’re even unlivable — you’d never guess you were walking down a street in Taipei.


Walking straight from the address, even after hurrying from Daqiaotou MRT Station, it still took about 15 minutes to get there. When we arrived, we realized it might actually be closer to Yuanshan Station.


In terms of appearance, it doesn’t look any different from your average noodle shop. The only real difference is the age of the customers — mostly older regulars from the neighborhood, or older folks originally from Taipei and the area who occasionally come back to relive the taste of “old-school” noodles.


Ironically, I didn’t come here because of the old but still sprightly uncle, nor because of the shop’s story, but for this bowl of seemingly special “dry noodles.” In front of the shop sit what look like very ordinary medium-fine straight noodles — perhaps what you’d call “plain noodles” — likely made by a nearby traditional noodle maker.


Yes, seeing those four sauces, you’ll probably understand why Xiaohu came. A bowl of noodles with four sauces — can you really resist trying it if you love dry noodles? Xiaohu sure couldn’t (laughs).


Just watch the old man, unhurried, scooping and pouring what must be hundreds of thousands of times, adding “sesame paste, fried sauce, scallion-lard mix, and brine” into the bowl one by one.


Then skillfully cooking what must also be countless bowls of noodles. Watch as the noodles make a sound like slicing through time and space: “chop, chop.”


As the uncle puts the noodles into the bowl, he says the trick to cooking them just right is all about feel. Noodles like these have just the right firmness, but if customers want them harder or softer, they can just specify.


Don’t let his age fool you — not only is he sharp-eared and clear-eyed, his movements are also “sharp as a knife.” His vegetable-chopping speed is so fast the camera shutter can’t even catch it...


First, about the firmness of the noodles — to be honest, I personally felt they were a little on the soft side, but that’s understandable given the mostly older clientele around here. If you want them firmer, just ask the uncle or the lady, and it’s done.


Now, about this four-sauce noodle I waited a whole week to eat. The moment I tasted it — no, actually, the moment I mixed it — I could tell the consistency was just right. It wasn’t as sticky and clumpy as sesame paste noodles, nor was it watery and thin like fried sauce noodles or typical dry noodles. I think it’s the spoonful of lard that contributed to the glossy texture and balanced flavor.

The initial taste doesn’t have the overly clingy, fragrant — even bitter — aroma of sesame paste, nor the simple saltiness of plain fried sauce noodles. I’m guessing it’s again thanks to that spoonful of lard, which smoothed out the overly sticky or even dry texture of the sesame paste, and also softened the sometimes overly salty flavor of the fried sauce. Plus, it added a light fragrance of lard and scallion oil toward the end of each chew. And that final spoonful of brine acted like the finishing touch, bringing out the full aroma of the noodles. One bowl, three distinct flavors — how could it not be delicious? =)


Was this really just a pre-Yilan food stop where we were all going to eat till we dropped? I’d told Strong, Ben, and Xiaodao to just order a little something, but the moment those three foodies saw the uncle’s braised dishes, they couldn’t help but go wild with ordering... Crazy Ben even went back the next day to try all the other braised items on the menu... Is he really that in love with this shop? XD


We hadn’t planned on ordering soup, but the lady said the “bone broth” was a popular item, so we ordered a bowl. When it arrived, the four of us exchanged smiles — it’s definitely pork rib soup... At the very least, scoop after scoop, there were clearly pork ribs.


But the flavor was unmistakably that of old-school meat bone soup — reminiscent of childhood memories. It had the sweetness from the big bones and meat bits, along with a hint of oily richness, slightly murky. It was so sweet that Xiaohu even began to wonder — but after drinking several big gulps with no resulting dry mouth, we guessed the sweetness came entirely from the “simmering.”


We often say a noodle shop stays popular because it has great side dishes. The secret of this old noodle shop is the “braised dishes” that had Ben coming back two days in a row. Aside from the braised items, there are also some plain-boiled assorted cold cuts.


Among the braised dishes, a few stand out. One is this “pork shin meat” — a cut that comes only twice per pig. Some call it the pig’s drumstick. It’s the part from the hind leg closest to the rear, with the skin and fat trimmed off, leaving the bone-in meat. It’s relatively tender and sweet.


Another item we didn’t get to this time but definitely will next time is pig tail — apparently a popular braised dish at the shop. If you go too late, you might miss out on it entirely.


Then there’s the “raw intestine head” recommended by the uncle. I used to eat this a lot as a kid, but it’s hard to find as an adult. The version here at the old noodle shop has a very different texture — it’s not as crispy as I remember, but rather soft and tender, more like “starch sausage.” It’s quite unique. Plus, the uncle’s braised dishes have deep, rich colors and bold flavors, yet aren’t too salty or greasy. They’re delicious even without dipping sauce.

Finally, I have to mention these intestines — they’re incredibly well-braised, flavorful, and perfectly salty. Just a couple of bites and they melt in your mouth. The highlight? The fat inside is sweet and smooth. I think these might be the best braised intestines I’ve had in a while. If you love intestinal dishes, you absolutely must order them.


【Xiaohu’s Five-Four-Three】
I’ll probably come back here two or three more times in the near future. First, because I really love this noodle shop — it might even be my second favorite after “Ajiao” (a snack noodle spot). Second, because the photos I took of the braised dishes turned out terrible and couldn’t be included in the book. Third, I also want to follow Ben’s lead and try every one of the uncle’s braised dishes. If there’s ever a Datengcheng snack food tour, this old noodle shop definitely needs to be on the list.

One last thing — this “old noodle shop” is exactly the kind of place I most wanted to write about.

【Old Dough Noodle Shop】
Address:No. 8, Lane 215, Section 2, Dihua Street, Taipei City
Phone:02-25981388
Business Hours:9:30–19:30 (Closed on Sundays)
Xiao Hu’s Dream Food Net 
If “eating” is just about filling your stomach, then “food” would be far too boring~~