Sunlight filtered through stained glass turns blue—like being inside an underwater St. Stephen's Church.

Photos & Text /Ji Mu

I arrived cloaked in night, departing with the tide.

If, one day, I could become a mermaid and gaze skyward from the shimmering ocean depths, would the view before my eyes also be tinted with this swaying blue hue?


Under the cover of night, I arrived in Mainz. The elderly couple I met in Pigeon Alley kindly led the way after I exited the station, escorting me right to my hotel’s doorstep. The grandfather said, “The hotel’s just ahead—let’s stop by the supermarket first!” Then came an overly polite, Japanese-style farewell of repeated bows and smiles. (Sorry for asking to take a photo—I only managed to catch a sneaky backview :P)


When traveling, accommodation is the least of my concerns. As a proud backpacker, I’ve slept in airports and shared dorms—what more could I ask for? Clean and safe is enough.

Advena Europa Hotel MAINZ 
The decor isn’t new, faintly showing signs of age—a European-style classic hotel. The walls even feature my beloved Alfons Mucha prints. Everything was truly perfect—except for that half-finished cola in the fridge.

I called the front desk and got a dismissive response. Fine. Armed with solid evidence, I went downstairs to demand a proper explanation. The attitude was awful—the clerk just parroted, “That was left by the previous guests, nothing to do with our hotel!” Oh, so they admit their cleaning is sloppy? Seeing no point in arguing further, the clerk tried to take the cola to destroy the evidence—whatever, I let her. Germans are meticulous? Human nature, I guess—exceptions happen. I laughed it off.


I handed over the cola can, left with a bad mood. Stepping out of the hotel, I plunged back into Mainz’s night. On the way in, I’d been too busy eavesdropping on the elderly couple’s conversation to pay attention to the route :P The dim darkness made me disoriented, so I just winged it, relying on faint visual memories.

After some fumbling, the directionally challenged me finally made it back to Mainz Station. I couldn’t help but cheer, “Viva!” Sitting in a corner, munching on a belated dinner hot dog, I watched a focused German uncle at the arcade and silently marveled at how cool it is for restaurants to have games. Full and content, I remembered the elderly couple mentioning the supermarket—surely there’d be one nearby? After wandering around, I actually found REWE City ! (Not sure how it differs from regular REWE?)


When abroad, learning about local customs is essential. Besides chatting with locals, visiting supermarkets and traditional markets is also key. A dazzling array of salads, pumpkins so cold they gave me goosebumps, sparkling water so cheap I’d feel guilty not buying it, dairy products so varied I wished I had five stomachs… Wow—oh, and as a bonus, I got an incredibly heartwarming smile from the cashier, brighter than any toothpaste ad. Ending a long day with such sunshiney kindness was pure bliss. Danke ! (Thank you!)




Greeting Mainz’s morning light—the rare good weather on this German trip. In this city, there are only two highlights: Mainz Cathedral (Mainzer Dom) and St. Stephen's Church (Stephanskirche).




Mainz Cathedral (Mainzer Dom), built from thousand-year-old ochre-red sandstone, is the essence of 12th-century Roman architecture. With this unmistakable landmark in sight, I walked through the square, past the fountain, and finally reached the cathedral. Yet, even after finding it, I wandered aimlessly outside, unable to locate the entrance. After walking around the church for a while, I found the entrance hidden in an unassuming corner.






Bad planning. It was my first time in Europe, and greedily wanting to hit all the major sights, I never considered how seeing too many churches in a few days might dull my senses. Facing the historic Mainz Dom, I thought it was beautiful, but couldn’t feel deeply moved—it was truly a shame. On the other hand, maybe it was too early—the legendary square market hadn’t opened yet.

Everything happens for a reason. So be it. With a quiet goodbye, I knew Chagall was waiting for me ahead.

◎ Mainz Cathedral (Mainzer Dom)Official Website, wiki, tripadvisor


St. Stephen's Church (Stephanskirche), the blue church with stained glass painted by Marc Chagall himself.
Following the map into a quiet residential area, I looked around—my weird sensor picked up lots of interesting graffiti, but I still couldn’t find the church. Finally flagging down a passerby and asking, “St. Stephan’s Church? The Blue Church?” got me nowhere. Guess I’d have to find it myself.

Could it be that building on the hill?


Walking along, I couldn’t resist trying doors, only to be scolded by a guard hiding somewhere. Oh well, wrong entrance—but at least I found it. Though, the church was way more low-key than expected—where was the promised blue church?


Stepping inside the church, I instantly understood. There was only one color in my vision—the light filtered through the stained glass, deep and shallow, surreal shades of blue.

Like being underwater, as if I’d become a mermaid.
Gazing skyward from the shimmering ocean depths, would the view before my eyes also be tinted with this swaying blue hue?

The candles were also uniquely crafted. Printed with the church’s outline, they were exquisitely detailed, almost like souvenirs.


Immersed in the fantastical, ocean-like atmosphere, words were unnecessary. I wanted to stay forever, but the bittersweet tune of departure played too loudly in my mind—the train to Ulm was about to depart.

Reluctantly, I pulled myself from the sea-blue dream. A deep connection, but a fleeting moment—parting was inevitable.

◎ St. Stephen's Church (Stephanskirche)Official website, wiki, tripadvisor

Time flows and moments slip away; bend down gently to pick them up and never forget. Who isn’t leaning on the past while gazing into the distance? The traveler’s eyes see the world.
ⅡFlowing Light, Picking Up the Past—This isKimu’s blog.