Quietly nestled in Chiang Mai, Wat Suan Dok boasts mesmerizing sunset views that captivate visitors.

Text and photos byXiaosheng

A few years ago, when Xiaosheng hadn’t been to Chiang Mai yet, the only way to learn about this ancient city was through travel books. However, the books were mostly dull, giving the impression that Chiang Mai had nothing much to offer besides temples. But after actually visiting, he discovered that Chiang Mai is far more interesting than the books described. Even the temples in Chiang Mai turned out to be quite fascinating. Having explored almost all of Chiang Mai’s well-known temples, Xiaosheng realized just how wonderful they are. That’s why he’s introducing this temple first—Wat Suan Dok (Wat Suan Dok).

The history of Chiang Mai dates back to the 13th century. However, under the rule of different dynasties, the Buddhist temples in Chiang Mai developed in a diverse manner. In other ancient Thai cities (such as Sukhothai), temples mostly reflect the style of a specific dynasty, which is why the temples in Chiang Mai are even more captivating.

Wat Suan Dok (Wot Suan Dok), located about 1 kilometer west of the old city of Chiang Mai on Suthep Road, was built in 1371 AD. "Suan dok" means garden, so Wat Suan Dok also signifies the Garden Temple. It was once the site of the royal garden during the Lanna Kingdom. However, compared to other famous temples in Chiang Mai, Wat Suan Dok isn’t particularly distinctive in terms of architecture. Yet, it is renowned for its especially enchanting sunset views. Unfortunately, Xiaosheng didn’t get to see the breathtaking sunset on his first visit due to bad weather.

Since Xiaosheng doesn’t usually take photos of the interior of temples out of respect for the deities, he skipped capturing the inside. At the back of Wat Suan Dok, there are rows of white stupas. Although the stupas aren’t very tall, there are quite a few of them. Wat Suan Dok is also the burial site for members of the Lanna royal family who have passed away.

However, on my second visit, I arrived at Wat Suan Dok rather late again. Although there was a sunset that day, I got there just as it was about to set, so I could only faintly make out the afterglow and imagine the beauty of the sunset.

The main bell-shaped stupa in the temple is primarily dedicated to Monk Sumana Thera. At that time, King Ku Na of Chiang Mai invited Sumana Thera to come and give teachings here, and he also built this temple, making him the temple’s first abbot. It is said that when Sumana Thera was still in Sukhothai, he dreamed of a senior monk guiding him to the burial site of Buddha’s relics. Following the monk’s guidance, he retrieved the relics and brought them to Chiang Mai.

The smaller stupas surrounding the main stupa.

Sumana Thera offered the relics to King Ku Na. After the completion of Wat Suan Dok, King Ku Na began constructing a stupa to enshrine the relics. When Sumana Thera took out the relics, they suddenly split into two. One of the relics remained buried in this stupa, while the other was later buried in Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. This is roughly the story of Wat Suan Dok.

The dragon king statue near the main stupa of Wat Suan Dok.

The main hall and the large Buddha statue of Wat Suan Dok were later renovated in 1932 by one of northern Thailand’s most famous monks, Khru Ba Srivichai. This is likely the form the temple takes today.

The sunset at Wat Suan Dok is very famous and often attracts many photography enthusiasts. However, it’s a bit unfortunate that both of my visits happened to be at the wrong times. Nevertheless, compared to other temples, Wat Suan Dok may have fewer visitors since it’s not located within the ancient city. Though the temple grounds aren’t large, you can still feel its leisurely and tranquil atmosphere.

[Wat Suan Dok]

Location: 1 kilometer outside the Suan Dok Gate of the old city of Chiang Mai (Suthep Road)

Xiaosheng’s Wandering Journey
Every journey, every trip is a pursuit. Though I’m not entirely sure what I’m chasing after, what I ultimately gain often exceeds my expectations. Therefore, my wandering journey will continue without end.