Meet Matsuo Bashō in the Mountain Temple | Climb 1015 Steps to Admire Yamagata’s Layered “Red, Green, and White” Scenery

▲ After climbing the 1015 steps of the mountain temple, you’ll be greeted by this breathtaking view. (Photo / Reporter Lin Yanchen)

Reporter Lin Yanchen / Reporting from Yamagata

Yamagata Prefecture in Japan is located in the Tohoku region, known for its distinct four seasons. Each season brings its own unique charm. The mountain temple in Yamagata was also one of the stops on the journey of Matsuo Bashō, the saint of haiku poetry, during his “Oku no Hosomichi” (Narrow Road to the Deep North) travel diary. If you wish to witness the same scenery Bashō saw and experience the elegance of this haiku master, you absolutely cannot miss this mountain temple.

The full name of the mountain temple is Hojuzan Tōshō-ji. Its founder, Jikaku Daishi, once traveled by sea from Japan to Tang Dynasty China to study Buddhism. Arriving in Yamagata in 860 AD, he established the temple here, engaging in spiritual practice and teaching of Buddhism. It is considered one of the important temples of the Japanese Tendai sect. Among its structures, the Konpon Chūdō (Main Hall) remains one of the oldest surviving zelkova wood buildings in Japan and is designated as a “National Important Cultural Property.”

▲ The temple garden is filled with maple and ginkgo trees. (Photo / Reporter Lin Yanchen)

▲ A statue of Matsuo Bashō, the haiku saint, at the mountain temple. (Photo / Reporter Lin Yanchen)

▲ A statue of Bashō’s disciple, Sora. (Photo / Reporter Lin Yanchen)

In 1689, Matsuo Bashō set out from Edo (Tokyo) on a journey through the Tohoku and Hokuriku regions. During his visit to Yamagata’s mountain temple, he described the scenery with the line: “In the deep quiet of the mountains, the cicada’s voice soaks into the rocks” (A line from Bashō: "The silence of the deep mountains is pierced by the cicada’s voice soaking into the rocks").A statue has since been erected to commemorate Bashō and his disciple Sora, marking the spot where they once walked.

At the entrance to the mountain temple hike, visitors must purchase an entrance ticket: 300 yen for high school students and adults, 200 yen for middle school students, and 100 yen for children aged 4 and above.

▲ The layered rocks are called “Hyakudai-iwa” (Hundred-Tier Rocks). (Photo / Reporter Lin Yanchen)

From the trailhead to the summit’s Oku-no-in (Inner Sanctuary), climbers must ascend a total of 1015 steps. The mountain is home to over ten temples and shrines dedicated to various deities. Along the hiking path, you’ll pass landmarks such as Hyakudai-iwa and Mida Cave, where you can pause for photos and catch your breath.

▲ Mida Cave, named for its rock formation that resembles a Buddha. (Photo / Reporter Lin Yanchen)

Near the summit, you’ll come across the Most Sacred Mausoleum of Uesugi Yozan. Uesugi Yozan was a renowned military commander from Japan’s Warring States period. He supported Tokugawa Ieyasu during the Battle of Sekigahara as part of the Eastern Army and was among the victorious generals. After the establishment of the Tokugawa Shogunate, Uesugi Yozan actively developed his domain of Yamagata, expanding Yamagata Castle, constructing waterways, reducing taxes to stimulate commerce, and transforming Yamagata into a prosperous city of its time. Locals hold his contributions in high regard.

Another attraction near the mountaintop is the “Kyūkei Tōshō-ji Kinen-den” (Commemorative Hall of the Emperor’s Visit to the Mountain Temple), commemorating the 1908 visit of Crown Prince Yoshihito—later Emperor Taishō—who rested here. The castle movie “March Comes in Like a Lion” was also filmed here. Fans of the film can revisit scenes from the movie at this location.

▲ View from the mountain temple summit overlooking the Dewa Hills. (Photo / Reporter Lin Yanchen)

The best reward after conquering the 1015 steps of the mountain temple is the panoramic view from the “Go-gōkaku” (Five Pavilions) observation deck at the summit. Overlooking the entire Yamagata Prefecture from above, visiting in late November—when autumn transitions into winter—you’ll see a stunning gradient of trees, maple leaves, and snow-covered landscapes on the Dewa Hills, varying by altitude. This “green, red, and white” layered scene resembles an oil painting coming to life before your eyes.

After descending, treat yourself to a cherry ice cream made from Yamagata’s famous cherries at the base of the mountain to recharge and perfectly conclude your journey.

Transportation: Take the JR Senzan Line (Sendai–Yamagata Line) to Tōshō-ji Station to reach the site.