Having witnessed the prosperity and decline of Dadaocheng, this old chicken roll shop sticks to its flavor for fifty years

Written and photographed by /Orange Dog Loves Candy

My deepest impression of 'chicken rolls'—a Taiwanese snack—comes from the offerings on the ancestral worship table during every Lunar New Year. But as a child, I had no idea what chicken rolls were because I was always more focused on the roast chicken and cakes on the table XD. However, in southern Taiwan, the filling is usually made of fish paste, offering a bouncy and savory taste. But when it comes to authentic chicken roll flavor, it originally came from the Fujian region, which you can actually tell just by pronouncing the words 'chicken roll' in Taiwanese. The original filling used leftover dishes from the day, wrapped in tofu skin and then deep-fried. It wasn’t until I read a magazine article about Taipei’s Longhuanghao and Longfenghao that I realized the difference in Taipei-style chicken rolls. That day, I happened to be in Taipei attending the 'Little Tiger Foodie Group's' ten-stop food tour and ended up walking all the way to 【Ye Family Five-Spice Chicken Rolls】 near Daqiaotou.

I’ve known Little Tiger for about two or three years now, although we don’t get to meet up for meals very often. But whenever he leads the way, I’m always eager to follow, mainly because we both share a deep love for street food. I wouldn’t say I’m an expert in food, but I enjoy documenting the old flavors of a city through eating.

In bustling Taipei, Wanhua’s Monga and Dadaocheng have witnessed the rise and fall of old Taipei. As a result, many old-time snacks quietly endure day after day, bearing witness to the joys and sorrows of the land they occupy. I think sometimes when we seek out street food, it’s not just about the delicious taste on our tongues—we also want to feel the warmth of local human connection.

And at 【Ye Family Five-Spice Chicken Rolls】 on Section 3, Yanping North Road, the owner told me they’ve been selling chicken rolls here for fifty years—this very stall, this exact flavor, in this city, steadfastly for fifty years.

The shop opens at 5 p.m., and I can only say the number of loyal customers accumulated over fifty years is astonishing. Within ten minutes of opening, the stall was surrounded by people.

Whether it’s regulars, curious passersby, or those brought by friends, the aroma alone would make anyone want to stop. In the back corridor, there are three tables and chairs. One person rolls the chicken rolls while another fries them in the oil. Right next to it is the Taipei Bridge, famous for its ‘motorcycle waterfall’ spectacle.

Even the fryer seems to bear fifty years’ worth of cooking marks. Next to it are the chicken roll’s best friends—black vinegar and sweet sauce. The owner, hearing I’m from southern Taiwan, chatted with me about the differences between northern and southern chicken rolls while rolling them, and recommended I definitely give them a try.

Watching him chat so casually yet handle the ingredients with such skill... a handful of onions, a handful of pork... then a couple of folds and it’s a roll ready for the oil. I can only say the frugality and simplicity of early Taiwanese people really gave rise to many delicious Taiwanese snacks we enjoy today.

After all, 'deep-frying' combined with frugal ingredient preparation truly adds an appealing coating to many otherwise ordinary ingredients. And the 'chicken' in chicken rolls, pronounced in Taiwanese, sounds similar to the word for 'leftover.' As the name suggests, it means wrapping leftover dishes in tofu skin and deep-frying them. These days, I think if you don’t speak Taiwanese, it’s probably hard to connect the name 'chicken roll' with its origin.

【Ye Family Five-Spice Chicken Rolls / 40 NTD each / This is three portions】
Because about 12 people showed up that day, we ordered three portions, which turned out to be a huge plate—but they were gone in an instant. The golden, crispy tofu skin wraps marinated pork from the hind leg, seasoned with five-spice powder, soy sauce, salt, and pepper, then rolled with sautéed onions. The cross-section shows just how generous the filling is, paired with crisp cucumber slices.

The first bite is the crispy, thin tofu skin. When eaten hot, you don’t even notice the grease. I love picking the tail end—the crispiest part of the whole chicken roll. The hearty pork thigh meat combined with crunchy onions, and the seasoning brings out a nostalgic traditional flavor. You can clearly taste the five-spice and pepper notes. Paired with a bowl of braised pork rice, it’s the perfect combo XDDD.

You can also dip it in black vinegar sweet sauce, but I feel the chicken roll’s seasoning is already perfect. For street food, I rarely touch extra sauces like soy paste or chili sauce usually offered at stalls—not because of health concerns, but because I think the original flavor is already delicious, and I don’t want to mess with it.

But after this bite, I still don’t quite understand why there’s a difference in filling between northern and southern chicken rolls. To me, the northern style actually hits the spot, and it’s definitely worth trying if you have the chance.

I’m pretty unfamiliar with the Daqiaotou area. After all, among the old districts of Taipei, I’ve mostly visited Longshan Temple in Wanhua in recent years. That day, I happened to catch a lively city god temple event. Even though the firecrackers were intense, experiencing such a locally-flavored celebration on my first visit was fun. Wandering the streets and seeking out local vibes was entertaining. Although Taipei has convenient subways, I don’t know if it’s due to my work habits, but walking around and exploring on foot is also enjoyable—because you always come across little surprises. After all, in this old part of Taipei, there are still plenty of local stories waiting to be discovered. Of course, the story of Dadaocheng is far from over. There are still the 【Old-Fashioned Noodle Shop】 and the 【Best Old-Time Black Tea in Taiwan】 to introduce next.

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【Ye Family Five-Spice Chicken Rolls Yanping North Road │ Daqiaotou Station】
Address: No. 8, Section 3, Yanping North Road, Datong District, Taipei City
Phone: 02-25943015
Business Hours: 5:00 PM – 11:00 PM
Note: Offers dine-in seating and takeout services
Nearest MRT Station: Exit 1 of Daqiaotou Station on Zhonghe-Xinlu Line, walk about 10 minutes along Minquan West Road
Bus: Take bus 206, 255, 274, or 641, get off at Daojiang High School, and walk about 4 minutes
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