The toppings are generous without cutting corners—regulars have been coming here for thirty years.

Text and photos byOrange Dog Loves Candy

I’ve recently been watching *A Bite of China*, and one episode happened to cover the theme of “Encounters,” featuring Taiwanese beef noodles. The line “In the tides of time, Chinese people use food to bridge the distance between their current home and their hometown” really struck a chord. I think beef noodles were likely created by veterans from the military dependents' villages who retreated to Taiwan during the turbulent war years, using their longing for home as inspiration—after all, in the traditional agricultural society of the past, cows were important tools, so how could they be slaughtered for food? As a child, I couldn’t handle spicy food, and many red-braised beef noodles back then had a Sichuan-style heat, so I could only smell them but never dare try them. As I grew older and could handle spice, beef noodles had already blossomed into countless variations, each developing its own unique flavor. I actually quite like the satay-flavored veteran beef noodles—I think the first place I tried was Old Deng’s in Tainan. But who would’ve thought that I’d stumble upon this similar flavor at 【Old San Beef House】 in Zhongli?

Nowadays, the military dependents' village in Shuijiao She, Tainan, has been almost entirely demolished to make way for a shopping mall built by a corporation, and Old Deng has long since relocated. Anyone local knows that Old Deng’s beef noodles are a famous Tainan snack—the noodles are worth trying, but be cautious with the side dishes. Especially the beef tripe and tendons can cost enough to buy you several more bowls of beef noodles (how many exactly, no one knows). That’s just a random aside—I mention it because I was in Taoyuan’s Zhongli for work, my second time here, and on the weekend, the area around Zhongli Train Station was bustling almost as lively as the Little Southeast Asia scene at Taichung’s First Square.

I was just looking for food in Zhongli when a friend told me there were quite a few hidden veteran beef noodle shops around. I only remembered Willie recommending 【Old San Beef House】 in an online comment, but I didn’t pursue it because it wasn’t nearby. Little did I know that while wandering the streets aimlessly, I’d stumble into Zhongping Road and find this shop—it had to be fate.

Business on the weekend wasn’t bad—tables filled up as soon as they emptied, and there were plenty of staff. The lady at the counter was quite warm and helpful, advising us not to order too much since there were just the two of us.

But a fifty-year-old shop naturally has its regulars. The uncle at the next table, for example, was there with friends, who kept praising how delicious the food was while he kept saying he’d been eating here for over thirty years.

Later, I looked it up online and found that beef noodle shops in Zhongli have a somewhat different style—many serve full beef platters, with signature dishes like satay beef brain, broad bean tendon, and broad bean tripe. These aren’t common cuts you’d find at your average beef noodle shop. But we played it safe and just ordered two bowls of beef noodles to test the flavors, since we were new to the area and didn’t want to go overboard.

【Signature Beef Noodles / 100 NT】 The price and portion are pretty reasonable, with plenty of beef and pickled vegetables on top, and what looks like a good amount of noodles. The broth has a yellowish-brown hue, and the presentation is actually quite nice. Naturally, I started with the broth.

It has that veteran-style satay aroma, yet the broth isn’t greasy, with layers of flavor from broad bean paste and garlic. The taste is pretty bold, but I enjoyed it nonetheless, and the fact that you can get a refill once is a nice bonus!!

The noodles have good chewiness—they only softened slightly after soaking in the broth, which is exactly how I like my wide noodles with beef. I also thought the portion was quite generous, so by the time I finished the noodles and sipped the broth, I was really full.

As for the star—the beef—it was tender, flavorful, and cooked to perfection. Every piece was delicious, especially the ones with skin.

The skin had a slight crispness, tender and juicy, and the portion of beef was satisfying. For the price and portion, these beef noodles are really solid!!

【Stir-Fried Beef Liver with Scallions / 130 NT / Small Portion】 Just a heads-up—small and large portions are available for stir-fries, so confirm which one you’re getting. For two people, unless specified otherwise, you’ll usually get the small portion. But even for a small portion, I was surprised by how much you get for the price in the north—the plate was piled high, almost at its surface tension. There were plenty of scallions, garlic, and thick sauce, and the beef liver was thick and chunky—a cut I don’t often eat.

The beef liver was perfectly stir-fried—the exterior had a slight crispness, while the inside was soft and tender at about six or seven parts done. But because of the high heat, some parts were lightly charred, adding a subtle smoky flavor that was absolutely delicious!!

【Satay Beef / Large Portion / Didn’t catch the price for the next table’s order】 I was originally going to skip this dish since it’s a common one at hot pot restaurants and nothing new to me. But seeing the next table’s order looking so good, I couldn’t resist snapping a photo. Whether small or large, the portions here are genuinely generous without cutting corners—that’s why so many people come here.

I love beef noodles, but I don’t actually eat them often—most places charge over a hundred NT, which isn’t something I can afford regularly. But it’s rare to find a place where, even if you only eat here occasionally, the flavors are so satisfying. Too bad it’s so far north—if it weren’t, I’d probably come often, especially since the prices are so reasonable. Plus, there are plenty of full-beef cuts you won’t find at regular beef noodle shops (too bad my friend didn’t want to try the beef brain). I highly recommend stopping by if you’re in Zhongli—it’s not too far from the train station, even on foot!!

【Old San Beef House】
Address: No. 163, Zhongping Road, Zhongli City, Taoyuan County
Phone: 03-4255697
Business Hours: 11:00 AM–2:00 PM + 4:30 PM–8:30 PM
Note: Closed on Mondays. Recommended for groups to order more signature dishes.

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