The best beer in all of Tokyo is in Ginza—crisp, smooth, and refreshingly pure.

Text and photos byExcerpted from 100 Kinds of Tokyo by Chen _g-xin, published by Kate Culture

When it comes to drinking, I rarely think about having a proper sake while in Tokyo. Somehow, that feels like something you should do in sake-producing regions like Nada. Instead, I often find myself thinking, “I should have a beer.” Like when I bump into an acquaintance on the street (which happens surprisingly often in Tokyo), when eating fried foods, ramen, or dumplings, when walking along a route inspired by Murakami Haruki’s novels or essays (a habit many seem to share), when meeting friends at an izakaya, or when I’m in Ebisu. Hmm, actually, I also can’t resist the urge to have a beer in Ginza.

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“Many people in Japan agree that the best beer in all of Tokyo is the draft beer at Ginza Lion, the seven-chome location. The beer brewed by Mr. Ebiwara is truly unique—clean-tasting with no unnecessary bitterness. The secret lies in its incredibly fine bubbles. He first tilts the glass eleven degrees so that the beer pouring from the tap swirls to the left, then gradually slows the rotation, allowing soft white bubbles to float to the top. It takes five seconds to pour a large glass and just over two seconds for a small one. Regardless of glass size, the ratio of bubbles to beer is always three to seven.” — Ajiichi Ichii-san / Pretend It’s Tokyo

Ajiichi’s Pretend It’s Tokyo was published in 2008. Back then, I had read this passage and really wanted to go to Ginza Lion for a beer. But during that time, countless overwhelming things happened, and my mind was in chaos. Going to Ginza for a beer wasn’t as simple as grabbing coffee on Wuchang Street, so I kept putting it off and eventually forgot about Ginza Lion. It wasn’t until many years later—after getting married and having kids—that I finally got to try their draft beer.

I didn’t specifically ask for beer brewed by Mr. Ebiwara (mostly because I’d forgotten his name), so I don’t know if he’s still working at Ginza Lion. Also, because I had my child with me, we were seated upstairs in a rather unremarkable wooden partitioned booth, not the spacious, high-ceilinged first-floor hall I had imagined. And because my kid was being naughty, I didn’t have time to check out the Roman-style mosaic mural on the first-floor wall or take in the bold, colorful atmosphere. But the beer was undeniably delicious—crisp, smooth, and refreshingly pure. Even I, who wouldn’t call myself a beer enthusiast, found myself quite enchanted. No wonder it’s considered a Ginza landmark. Later, I also heard that the food here is pretty good—affordable and tasty, making it a great spot for budget-friendly lunches or dinners for travelers. Thinking back on the small snacks I ordered, they really did live up to the hype.

I’ve since visited a few other branches, and perhaps it’s just psychological, but the beer didn’t taste as good as the one at the seven-chome location in Ginza. I’m guessing maybe Mr. Ebiwara is still there? (laughs) Of course, that’s just my assumption. But honestly, even if it’s not because of Mr. Ebiwara, if you can, you should still visit the seven-chome Ginza Lion. Sit in that magnificent hall and experience the atmosphere, which is unlike your typical izakaya. But when will that be possible? For someone like me whose child is only two and a half years old, probably a few more years.

Ginza Lion Beer Hall is located at 7-9-20 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo. If you go, please let me know if Mr. Ebiwara is still there.

● ETNEWS News Cloud reminds you: Don’t drink and drive. Don’t drive if you’ve been drinking.