Kinmen’s Zhang Family Xiao Long Bao, open for only half a day—you might have to wait half an hour just to buy some.

Text and photos byXiaohu’s Dream-Eating Web

Every time I travel, I always get to try some local delicacies, especially “street food.” This is especially true when traveling abroad, and even more so in Kinmen. But sometimes, some of these very casual little shops are truly a matter of fate—if you want to eat there, that is. Take this “Zhang Family Xiao Long Bao” for example: the first time I went to Kinmen, I missed it completely; the second time, the place was shuttered tight. But unexpectedly, on the third try, as I walked by, I happened to see the owner pulling open the metal gate, getting ready to start business. I guess this is the subtle bond between people and food, huh?

Zhang Family Xiao Long Bao is somewhat of a local institution in Kinmen, especially in Houpu. It’s located right across from the “Kinmen General’s Office,” making it pretty easy to find—anyone who’s been to Kinmen has probably walked past this shop.

This shop is also clearly marked on quite a few Kinmen travel guides (maps), but their business hours supposedly start at 2 PM and go until around 6 PM. However, they often sell out early on holidays, and it seems they have irregular opening days.

Since everything is made fresh and steamed to order, you have to wait a while. Before long, a crowd gathers at the door, mostly locals who come by scooter to pick up takeout.

The boss looks a lot like an artist with a strong personality—at least he doesn’t look like someone who sells xiao long bao at all... Asking him questions doesn’t seem to interest him much, super quirky. But when he chats with neighbors, he doesn’t seem unfriendly either.

Right there at the entrance are the steaming bamboo steamers, usually with just one or two going at a time, and those are typically pre-orders. So if you come here to buy some, waiting half an hour is pretty normal XD

I guess anyone particularly fussy about cleanliness might get cold feet at the sight of those steamers XD

I forgot how much one steamer (ten pieces) costs, but I think it was 50 or 60... They also give you a packet of sauce that’s supposedly really good.

The wrapper has a bit of that uncooked floury whiteness, but it doesn’t really affect the texture too much. The top part of the wrapper is a bit thicker, while the bottom is thinner. The aroma of the dough is just okay—noticeable for maybe two or three bites.

Drizzle on that slightly thick, garlicky soy-based sauce, and it really is the finishing touch. In your mouth, besides the saltiness of the sauce and the faint hint of garlic, there’s also a faint sweetness from the dough that comes through—a really lingering aftertaste.

As for the filling, the ratio of meat to chopped scallions is pretty good. The meat is slightly sweeter than the scallion flavor, or rather, the scallion aroma is much more subdued than you’d expect. Compared to another very famous spot—[Tiger’s Random Eating Spree Travelogue – Kinmen] Kinmen Town’s street food, Jinli Xiao Long Bao, Banana Water, Heji Fried Dough Sticks, and Sorghum Wine Egg Rolls—in terms of taste, I prefer Jinli (it’s closer to the flavors I liked as a kid, that simple, sweet meatiness). But in terms of texture, Zhang Family wins.

Zhang Family Xiao Long Bao: No. 34 Guangqian Road, Jincheng Township, Kinmen County. Phone: 082-373493. Business hours: 14:00–18:30 (closes when sold out).

Xiaohu’s Dream-Eating Web
If “eating” is just about filling your stomach, then “food” would be far too boring~~~