Having weathered thirty years of time, Huatai Coffee still sits quietly on Cheng Street in Taichung’s Central District.

Text and photos by /Orange Dog Loves Candy

I may not be an expert on coffee, but I’ve always been drawn to the old flavors hidden in the corners of the city. After all, I never got to experience those bygone eras, yet I’m always excited to dig up memories of life from a certain time, like uncovering buried treasure—be it a steaming bowl of noodle soup, a plate of cool shaved ice, or a cup of coffee that has lived through both prosperity and decline. In Taichung’s once-bustling yet now quiet Central District Cheng Street, hidden away in Lane 18, Section 2 of Sanmin Road, lies a coffee shop that has endured thirty years of time, standing silently at that corner of that alley to this day.
[Huatai Coffee]is its name. Before coming here, I didn’t actually know much about its background—I just came to have a meal. Walking into Lane 18, you can spot it right away. Its exterior doesn’t quite match the style of this era, yet it fits perfectly within this old neighborhood.

My memories of old coffee shops come half from childhood TV scenes and half from stories told by the older generation. These fragmented memories naturally merged into one the moment I saw Huatai Coffee.

Although Huatai Coffee is an old coffee shop, its color scheme is modest and retro. Through the transparent windows, you can catch a glimpse of the interior. The small plants outside frame the space, while inside, the warm yellow yet dim lighting gives off a distinctly vintage vibe.

Compared to modern, trendy coffee shops that often extend their decor in a LOFT style, it indeed carries the distinct character of another era.

At two in the afternoon, I pushed open the door, and the crisp sound of a bell rang out. Only one table of customers was chatting animatedly, so we found a seat for ourselves. The floor is wooden—a design rarely seen in today’s coffee shops. The last time I saw something similar was at Taipei’s Park Café.

Even when sitting indoors, the lighting remains dim and yellow—this was the style of old coffee shops, creating a certain ambiance. The slightly ornate decor appears understated under the lighting but still manages to shine through. This is yet another unique charm of old coffee shops.

Back in the day, aside from Western restaurants, I think coffee shops were the second most atmospheric place for dates. That was probably the era when even holding hands would make you blush shyly after staring at each other for ages.

The shop also has a semi-hidden private room area, which used to be reserved for matchmaking meetings—naturally, because privacy and quiet were essential.

Besides dates and matchmaking, another important function of coffee shops was as a place for businesspeople to discuss deals. That’s what I heard from the older generation—late-night cafés were another battlefield of commerce after dark.

So, in another corner of Huatai, they’ve preserved wooden lockers—though these days they’re mostly for decoration. But the owner laughed and said that back then, these were rented out to businesspeople to store documents. They were once in such high demand that it was hard to find an available one.

It wasn’t until I opened the menu that I realized they actually offer so many main meals here, though most are light meals or hot pot-style dishes. Ordering a meal comes with the option to choose one drink or coffee. Most of the meals that include a drink are priced over 250 NT.

For the four non-drink-included meals, the prices range around 180 NT, but adding a drink costs an extra 60 NT. The food is actually pretty good, but today I came mainly for the Mamba Coffee, aside from having a meal.

[Grilled Chicken Leg Rice / 290 NT + 10% service charge + drink of choice included]
Not knowing what to order on my first visit, the staff recommended this dish. Honestly, it’s been a while since I had a simple meal like this.

It includes a steamed egg, stir-fried greens with eggplant, spicy tofu, plain rice (with pickled radish), and the main dish: grilled chicken leg.

The side dishes are actually quite generous and have a very homey flavor. I particularly liked the eggplant and steamed egg, and the rice was good too.

The star, the grilled chicken leg, is coated with teriyaki sauce that’s caramelized into a thick glaze clinging to the meat. The leg is fairly thick, tender with a hint of sweetness, probably from the sweet teriyaki sauce on the outside. I really liked it—and the portion was quite filling.

It also comes with a bowl of ginger winter melon soup, a very Taiwanese pairing that’s refreshing and cuts through the richness.

[Cheese Pork Chop Hotpot / 290 NT + 10% service charge + drink of choice included]
At first glance, it’s not obvious where the pork chop is, but inside the bubbling hotpot is a solid piece of fried pork chop, enveloped tightly with melted cheese. The outer breadcrumb coating has softened, and the juicy pork has a nice chewy texture.

Paired with the salty richness of the molten cheese, it goes wonderfully with the pork chop or even mixed into the rice. Surprisingly delicious. The side dishes are similar to the previous dish. If you like hot food, this is a safe bet. (Though I’m not great at photographing such dishes… so the photos don’t turn out well T_T)

[Mamba Coffee / included with meal]
Only after stepping into the shop did I realize that besides its classic old-school vibe, Huatai Coffee is also the birthplace of Taichung’s Mamba Coffee. It’s a blend of Brazilian and Mandheling coffee beans, born during Taiwan’s prosperous years. The owner said that back then, this coffee was priced at 100 NT—that was during Taiwan’s economic boom, when money was flowing everywhere.

Coffee still holds certain symbolic significance—it was once considered a relatively upscale leisure activity. The Mamba Coffee tastes rich and mellow, with a bitter depth wrapped in full, smooth aroma sliding down the throat, its subtle acidity giving way to a sweet aftertaste. Sipping it while listening to the owner recount its history felt like being carried away by the coffee’s aroma into a time-traveling machine of memories.

【Iced Premium Fruit Tea / Meal Pairing】
This should have been quite tasty—at least it looked that way—but for some reason, it had already been prepared and placed at the counter long before we even ordered. By the time it was served, the ice had melted a bit, making the sweet-and-sour flavors noticeably weaker. Such a shame...

Looking at the informational materials on the table, I learned about the storied history of this old coffee shop. It had gone through ups and downs along with the neighborhood’s prosperity, evolving from originally serving beverages paired with meals to later pivoting its business model to offering light meals alongside drinks and coffee in response to market demand. Despite having operated for thirty years, running the place hasn’t been easy. For instance, after we left that afternoon, no other customers came in, and the occasional bell ring announcing a visitor turned out to be longtime patrons—people who’ve frequented the place for decades—dropping in for a cup of coffee and a moment of nostalgia.

But the owner’s dedication to the coffee shop can still be seen in the well-maintained interior and the orderly setup of the bar and kitchen. Fortunately, the lack of bustling noise gifted me with an unexpectedly peaceful two-hour afternoon, accompanied by a sense of nostalgia. After finishing my cup of Mamba coffee, I want to thank the owner for still holding on all these years, keeping such a storied establishment open. Just a heads-up: the operating hours are a bit unusual—the shop is closed on Sundays. Those interested should take note and check ahead—Up！

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◎Shop Introduction: [Huatai Cafe 'Cafe & Dining Sanmin Rd. Minquan Rd. │ Central District]
◎Address: No. 32, Lane 18, Section 2, Sanmin Road, Central District, Taichung City (near Minquan Road)
◎Phone: 04-22240011
◎Business Hours: 10:00 AM – 9:00 PM
◎Consumption Notice: Closed on Sundays, 10% service charge applies
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