A delicious taste unchanged for half a century – Taichung’s time-honored stinky tofu shop offers crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, and full of layered flavors

Text and photos by /Orange Dog Loves Candy

Though not a sweet dessert flavor, it’s a delicious taste that lingers in your heart after just one bite. “A pair of the most beautiful weathered hands create the warmest and most touching original memory.” This is their latest slogan. From a street stall in 1955 to today’s stinky tofu shop, this is a traditional delicacy that has been fragrant for nearly half a century. I still remember visiting Taichung over three years ago when a friend first brought me to “Granny Liang’s.” At that time, it was more like a makeshift shop, yet there was an endless stream of people lining up, which surprised me — but is it really that exaggerated for just stinky tofu?

Then one day, the old shop suddenly demolished, and I momentarily thought, how could a business fail because it’s too popular? It turned out they were undergoing a complete transformation—the second generation decided to turn the original shop into a more refined stinky tofu specialty store. But after the transformation, since meal times always saw crowds packed inside, I didn’t feel inclined to join the hustle. By chance, I passed by again one day around ten in the morning, and there weren’t many people. So I figured, why not pull over and satisfy my craving? The current [Granny Liang’s] still sells stinky tofu, but the menu has become more diverse, offering everything from hot pot dishes to steamed dumplings.

Heading upstairs, the space becomes very bright and comfortable, with Chinese-style décor that is elegant and refined. Even in summer, there’s air conditioning, so you no longer have to sweat profusely in the stuffy air while eating stinky tofu like before. Compared to the past when it was just a small roadside stall, the difference is quite significant.

You can also see photos of many celebrities who’ve visited in the stairwell. In addition to “Foodie Family,” even actress Nancy Sit, who played a judge in “God of Cookery,” has dined here.

There’s also a guestbook wall filled with satisfied customers’ comments and signatures.

The current menu is also very diverse, offering everything from deep-fried to steamed dishes, and even hot pot options. The stinky tofu comes in both meat and vegetarian versions, and the spice levels are graded. Interestingly, there’s even an option labeled “spicy on the side” XD I hadn’t tried any of the new items, so I decided to try one new and one old dish for a taste test—Up.

But what pleasantly surprised me before the meal was that the server carefully carried out bowls, chopsticks, and spoons on a tray and then methodically arranged them on the customer's table. The service has clearly evolved into a refined level.

The first thing you’ll naturally notice is the signature must-order [Signature Stinky Tofu / 40 NT / Mildly Spicy].
The golden, deep-fried stinky tofu has a hollowed-out center filled with the shop’s special sauce, mashed garlic, and chili sauce, topped with plenty of shredded cucumber and Taiwanese pickles. The portion of five pieces is their half-century unchanged deliciousness.

The thin, crispy fried skin pairs with the soft, tender tofu for distinct layers of texture. The moment it enters your mouth, you’re hit with a burst of savory and spicy flavors that stimulate your senses. The garlicky sting mixed with the stinky aroma is an indispensable highlight.

The side dish, my favorite Taiwanese pickles, with their refreshing, sour, and crispy cabbage, goes perfectly with the stinky tofu.

Another dish is the new [Steamed Stinky Tofu / 60 NT].
I’ve had steamed stinky tofu before at Tainan’s [Old Jiangnan], and it was delicious, but Granny Liang’s presentation is different. The steaming process takes longer, so you’ll need a bit of patience for this dish.

The stinky tofu is topped with dried shrimp, scallions, and mushrooms, then steamed together. It’s drizzled with a special sauce, and a layer of ground pork is placed on top. The rich aroma is truly mouthwatering. The firm yet tender tofu carries a faint stinky fragrance, and when eaten with the savory-salty sauce, it also brings out the unique, nostalgic aroma of dried shrimp and scallions.

The ground pork on top is also incredibly fresh, sweet, and bouncy. The combination of the two creates a wonderfully balanced texture. The steamed stinky tofu is less greasy but offers a refreshing sweetness. However, in terms of portion size, the price is a bit on the higher side.

Returning to [Granny Liang’s Stinky Tofu] to relive the experience, the unchanged flavor remains exactly the same. I’m truly glad that although the shop has been renovated, the classic taste is just as delicious. Some say it’s changed, but in the years I’ve been coming, I’ve found it to be quite good. After all, taste is subjective to each person. It’s a little disappointing, though, that you can no longer smell the wafting stinky aroma from far away, which is somewhat melancholic. But looking at the transformation of Granny Liang’s, it’s hard to say whether it’s good or bad. Perhaps they aim to learn from high-end establishments like Ding Wang, and refining the cuisine is a positive step. Still, I hope they continue preserving that great flavor Up.

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○ Recommended Shop: [Granny Liang’s Stinky Tofu │ Xiangshang Flagship Store]
○ Address: No. 312, Meicun Road, West District, Taichung City
○ Phone: 04-2305-1198
○ Business Hours: 3:00 pm – 12:00 am
○ Special Notes: None.
○ Official Website: http://www.liangpopo.com
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