Okinawa’s No. 1 Shorei Shokudo – The Shorei Soba Even Hiroshi Abe Loves

Written & photos by /Right Upper 45-Degree Angle Girl

People, why go to Okinawa? For the breathtaking ocean views, affordable Muji stores, [tears of joy] soulful shamisen folk music, and... Okinawan noodles too of course. This historic Okinawan noodle spot, “Shorei Shokudo,” established in 1905, was the highlight of our trip.

Ever since I started traveling with Xiaohu and getting invited to free meals more often, I always scout out must-try local eats online before going anywhere. And when in Okinawa, of course we had to come to this place hailed as the No. 1 Okinawan noodle spot, highly recommended by many: Shorei Shokudo.

Shorei Shokudo is located in northern Okinawa, not near any major attractions. It feels like a regular neighborhood, with really narrow streets. The white car parking spot is actually the super famous “Arakaki Ice Shop.” Wait—does that have anything to do with actress Ayase Haruka? (Scratches head.) The Shorei Shokudo itself is tucked away in an alleyway, marked by a small vertical white sign on the right.

My dad drove through all sorts of backstreets. He’s long gotten used to the quirky spots I find that serve unexpectedly good food. Today, we even had to take a little detour because of road repairs. After a long drive and a bit of a hassle finding parking, our stomachs were growling—and it was already past one-thirty with at least 20 people queued up outside. That’s when I knew we were in for something great: such a long line means it’s probably delicious.

With nothing else to do, I snapped random shots of the signs to distract myself from hunger.

They’re only open for a short time, mostly serving lunch. Maybe because hand-pulled noodles are labor-intensive so they can only make a limited amount, or maybe because it’s in such a remote area and fewer people come at night. Most shops in Okinawa have their own parking, but Shorei Shokudo, despite being just a small noodle shop doing big business, had to draw its own parking layout for customers to follow. We got lucky and managed to snag the three spots right in front of the WC in the top-right corner of the diagram—so close, yay ^^

After waiting about 20 minutes—which wasn’t too bad, as the turnover was pretty quick—we were led to a small private room in the back (we sat on tatami mats and had to take off our shoes). This is the main dining area up front. Most of the customers were Japanese, showing that the place is hugely popular with locals too.

The whole shop is covered in celebrity autograph boards. As soon as I stepped into the private room, I spotted the signature of Stanley, a well-known blogger—how heartwarming XD

There were tons of other signatures I couldn’t read, but there was no way I’d miss this one—Mr. Hiroshi Abe’s signature!

The menu is pretty simple. Shorei Soba comes in two sizes, plus a limited edition rice bowl available in only 100 portions per day. I mean, even cheap ramen in Japan usually starts at ¥800, but here the large bowl of soba is just ¥650. I was so moved I almost teared up ><

First up was the rice bowl (¥250). The portion is about the size you'd get in a breakfast rice shop—clearly designed to be tasty rather than filling.

The grains were distinct and firm. Though the color was a bit dark, the flavor wasn’t heavy. Tossed with sliced mushrooms, the aroma was simply inviting. I have to say this rice bowl was quite different from what you typically get in restaurants back in Taiwan—it wasn’t as heavily seasoned, but that made it feel fresher.

Then came the Shorei Soba (¥500). The presentation was vibrant and very appealing. Despite the name “Soba,” these are actually traditional wheat noodles—not buckwheat soba. In Okinawa, “soba” is just a general term for noodles. So if you see “Soba Soba” in Okinawa and don’t get any buckwheat, don’t flip out at the owner, okay?

A bite of the fish cake alone shows how much care the owner puts in. The flavor is refreshing—not overly sweet like typical fish cakes. I wonder if it’s handmade by the owner himself? The Japanese green onions weren’t pungent at all. Normally, I’m not a fan of raw onions on noodles, but here I polished them off.

The braised pork wasn’t greasy or fatty, but tender and flavorful without being dry. Though it’s not my personal favorite (XD), it really won me over.

Actually, none of the sides stole the show compared to the real star—the handmade noodles. They had a great chew to them, slightly firm, but that firmness was just perfect for me. The noodle aroma really shines through. The only downside is that the texture doesn’t do much to carry the broth up with each bite. But considering how generous the soup portion is, I’d say the broth plays more of a supporting role anyway, not that important XD Overall, these noodles earn the word “refreshing.” The bowl might not look huge, but the noodles are so satisfying you’ll finish every last strand—and feel completely full afterward.

Shorei Shokudo (岸本食堂)
http://tabelog.com/okinawa/A4702/A470202/47000068/
Address: 5 Toguchi, Motobu, Kunigami District, Okinawa
0980-47-2887
Business hours: 11:00 AM – 5:30 PM
Closed on Wednesdays
Directions: It’s really hard to get here without a car... If you’re planning to visit the Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium, you can swing by—it’s about a 30-minute drive away.

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