Li Fangyu’s First Visit to Kinmen & Falling in Love with Guangdong Porridge with More Toppings Than Rice, Served with Youtiao

▲ Kinmen, shaped by time, is now vastly different from its former wartime self and has become a cultural tourism destination.

Text & Photos / Li Fangyu

Kinmen, a military outpost just 6 kilometers from mainland China, was once a place where, during the era of cross-strait confrontation and heightened tension, everyone—regardless of age or gender—had to participate in military training. The island was also home to 100,000 soldiers stationed to protect their homeland. Today, with frequent cross-strait exchanges, Kinmen has become the most convenient small-three-links port for entering mainland China. So what happened to the 100,000 troops, the bunkers everywhere, and the top-secret military tunnels? What does Kinmen look like today? Let’s follow renowned travel show host Li Fangyu to find out more!

My first impression upon landing in Kinmen was, “Kinmen is so clean!” The roads are tidy, the trees are neatly trimmed, and the best way to get around is by scooter—not only can you enjoy the pollution-free, gentle breeze, but you can also take in all the beautiful scenery. Well-preserved traditional Min-style buildings, golden fields of ripe sorghum, secret military tunnels crafted by the soldiers, and remnants of tanks and artillery—all coexist harmoniously on this small island!

Military relics blend seamlessly into Kinmen, creating a rich cultural tapestry.

Another must-do when visiting Kinmen is to wake up early for breakfast. Breakfast here is quite different from what we’re used to in Taiwan, and one of the classics is Guangdong porridge with youtiao. The porridge may look unassuming at first glance, but when you dig in with your spoon, you’ll be surprised—there’s an explosion of toppings.There’s almost more filling than porridge itself, and the texture of the youtiao is also different from what we’re familiar with. It has a taste and chewiness somewhat similar to Taiwanese-style donuts, with a crispy outside and a firm, satisfying inside. Just one set of this for breakfast will absolutely satisfy your body and soul—you’ll be full until evening!

▲The beef noodles made with locally sourced Kinmen beef have an unforgettable flavor!

In addition, another must-try in Kinmen is“beef noodles,”and my criteria for choosing a beef noodle shop is that it must use “locally raised Kinmen beef.” Kinmen beef isn’t overly soft or bland, but it has a good chew and distinct muscle fibers—this is a texture you’ve probably never experienced before. Paired with a fresh, natural broth that clearly has no artificial additives, together with handmade knife-cut noodles or sun-dried Kinmen wheat vermicelli, it’s simply irresistible. It’s really delicious!

▲A national-level symphony orchestra plays soothing melodies in the tunnels.

The highlight of this trip to Kinmen was the “Zhaishan Tunnel Concert.” This annual music festival is held in Zhaishan Tunnel, the last remaining tunnel open to the public in Kinmen. A national-level symphony orchestra performs in this naturally acoustically optimized tunnel, accompanied by the gentle sound of seawater. The whole experience feels completely natural. Close your eyes and listen—the notes seem to sing straight into your heart. I believe this is a concert everyone should hear at least once in their life. And the best part? The entire event is free. But you have to be ready at your computer on the official day and time to grab tickets—they sell out in about half an hour. So I strongly recommend everyone set their alarms early next year to snag those tickets!

▲Everything about Kinmen is unforgettable, making you look forward to your next trip.

This three-day, two-night trip to Kinmen was an unexpectedly rich experience. Whether you enjoy slow travel among historic architecture, love hearty meaty meals and drinks, or are a military enthusiast fascinated by wartime vibes, you’re sure to come away with plenty. And I’ve secretly decided in my heart: next year, Kinmen, so much fun—I’ll be back by plane!

Click here to see more of Li Fangyu’s travel photos in Kinmen

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