The ancient town of Lijiang in Yunnan — no matter the angle, it feels like traveling through time!

Text and photos byGui Xiaosun

Here’s the second installment of stories from my trip back from Lijiang. I must admit, I’m rather ignorant — I only recently learned that there’s a place called Lijiang in Yunnan, China. As someone not particularly well-versed in history, I had no idea about the saying, “The Forbidden City in the north, the Mu Mansion in the south.” Without this trip, I might never have experienced the genuine scenery and culture here. Maybe many people think Taiwan is small and its perspectives limited, but the truth is, when you love your land, every day spent on it can bring happiness. That’s why I say, go out and see the world boldly, then come back and love your own land. That’s what I always tell myself!

A few days ago, I stayed at the Lijiang International Grand Hotel in downtown Lijiang — that’s the place in the photo below, with the red-pillared gate. The rooms were pretty basic, but since I thought they were okay, I didn’t take any special photos or give them a detailed introduction. I actually preferred the Pullman hotel where I stayed later — apparently, the price difference was double, XD. The advantage of staying here was how close it was to the Dayan Ancient Town. In the evenings, after returning to the hotel, I could freely wander around, explore the ancient town, and grab some snacks. From here, our group also set off on foot the next day to visit the Wanggu Tower, the Mu Mansion, and the Dayan Ancient Town — super convenient.

Following the tour guide, our group of fifty-plus people made quite a grand sight. Honestly, I’m not the type to obediently listen to the guide’s explanations the whole time. So most of the historical bits I caught were just fragments. But I actually enjoyed the slow, self-paced atmosphere of strolling and sightseeing. Perhaps I don’t have too many thoughts about reminiscing the past — I’d rather observe the current lives of the locals, seeing how people living amid these 800-year-old historic sites coexist with history. The weathered walls or stone blocks can’t be fully described with just a few words. Even if we know a lot, perhaps truly cherishing the preservation of cultural relics is the real key. After all, instead of “forcefully” taking photos with artifacts, it’s better to genuinely value their preservation.

Following the group, we walked up and down the stone steps. These uneven staircases reminded me of Jiufen’s little town. Of course, the feeling here wasn’t entirely the same, but those small winding paths, the ups and downs, and the gently extending stairways gave off a similar vibe. There were quite a few tourists here, mostly from mainland China, but I always found myself paying attention to the people in the houses or the women walking along the roads, noticing their clothes and the simple, honest look in their eyes.

Along the way, there were numerous local sundries, adding color to the stories of this land. We didn’t stop to shop, though, because the tour guide had given us some pointers. So we just enjoyed the scenery as scenery, and we were especially enthusiastic about “taking photos” along the way, XD.

This path was great for photos — no matter the angle, it felt like traveling through time. We also noticed the dogs of Lijiang — many had small eyes and slightly buck teeth, not sure if it was due to their diet.

As we walked, we reached the Lion Hill viewpoint beneath the Wanggu Tower. This was another spot where the shutter clicking never stopped. The spectacular ancient town spread out 180 degrees beneath our feet — you really had to use the “panorama” mode to capture its full expanse. I searched for a good vantage point among the crowd until I found a certain staircase where I could finally fit both the crowd and the distant ancient town into the frame. Sometimes, a landscape photo alone doesn’t show you its width and depth — it takes people to convey the true sense of warmth and vastness. That’s also why I don’t avoid having people in my photos.

In Lijiang, I always felt it was very different from Beijing. Saying that might make me seem rather shallow, but it’s truly how I felt. Because even if history records countless stories, it’s not the same as standing on the ground and breathing the air there. In Beijing, there are lots of people and cars, the buildings are tall, and even leaving early in the morning can mean encountering traffic jams. The air smells dusty, and the view often looks somewhat hazy. Compared to Beijing, stepping onto the land of Lijiang, you constantly feel clean and comfortable.

After lingering at the viewpoint, we climbed up the long staircase to the Wanggu Tower. On that day, the exterior of the Wanggu Tower was under renovation, with wooden beams and scaffolding everywhere — of course, I didn’t take photos of that, but it didn’t matter. I always felt the scenery viewed from beside it — the towering trees and the glimpses of the ancient town between them — was even more enchanting. During my five days in Lijiang, because the attractions weren’t far apart, we had plenty of time to spend at each site, taking photos and strolling leisurely. It was such a nice feeling!

About the Wanggu Tower:Origins
It is a landmark building of Lijiang. In the Dongba script, it’s interpreted as the “Tower of Ten Thousand Generations,” called “Wenguilun” in the Naxi language, meaning to enjoy the view and feel carefree from a high vantage point. Its name, “Wangu Tower” (万古楼), is a homophone. The character “Wan” (万) symbolizes overlooking the ancient town of Lijiang and its surrounding fields, as well as gazing at the eternal glaciers of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. It also represents the rebirth and reconstruction of Lijiang, enduring forever and remaining immortal. The Wanggu Tower is located atop Lion Hill in Lijiang County, Yunnan Province. The tower has five stories, with multiple eaves and brackets, supported by 16 wooden pillars each 22 meters high that run through all levels. The total height exceeds 30 meters, making it the tallest wooden structure building in China. In Naxi, “Wenguilun” means to admire the view and feel joy from a high point. Due to its homophonic name, it is called the Wanggu Tower.

The Wanggu Tower has 13 upturned eaves, representing the 13 peaks of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The building is adorned with 2,300 auspicious patterns, such as “stars on the forehead and moon on the back,” symbolizing the 23 ethnic groups residing in Lijiang (referring to the administrative region). The dragon decorations number 9,999 in total, and with the dragon on the ceiling, they make 10,000 dragons, signifying eternal glory. The tower is 33 meters high, symbolizing the 330,000 people of Lijiang. There are four gates to the Wanggu Tower, each flanked by two stone lions. The eight lions in the four directions, each with distinct expressions, welcome visitors from all directions.

About the Mu Mansion:Origins
“The Forbidden City in the north, the Mu Mansion in the south.” Crossing a small bridge with bubbling spring water, you’ll suddenly see a wooden archway standing prominently among the earthen and tiled houses. Stepping through the vermilion gate of the Mu Mansion, the view suddenly opens up — a vast open area with a magnificent golden palace standing tall. The white marble base is exquisitely carved, and the grandeur makes you feel as if you’ve stepped into an imperial palace. If what you see in the ancient town of Lijiang reflects the daily life of the locals, then the Mu Mansion lets you flip through the rise and fall of a once-glorious ruling family of a great Tusi in the southwestern region.

I didn’t take photos of the under-renovation Wanggu Tower. Its five stories rose gradually, and we slowly climbed the stairs to take in the sweeping views from its heights!

The ancient town on the left looked smaller and farther away, vast and slightly dreamy under the sunlight. If your lens isn’t wide enough, you’ll really only be able to capture the smaller details. This is also something the guide told us — actually, the best angles are still yet to be discovered. When you climb up to a higher level, you’ll find that the scenery is even more breathtaking.

We always had plenty of time before regrouping, so we went back down the staircase. With so many tall trees around, the temperature and shade made it a very comfortable spot — everyone could chat freely. A small stone lion nearby caught my eye, and I started circling it from various angles. If it were a stamp, I’d definitely get one, XD.

After descending from the Wanggu Tower, we followed the group toward the very important Mu Mansion in Lijiang. Amidst the treetops, I kept looking at the buildings through the plants, sensing a bit of the “Forbidden City” vibe in them. The architectural details and craftsmanship were remarkable. I’m not great at navigating palaces, but I do enjoy wandering around the spaces between them. Because when else would I get the chance to photograph the exteriors and play of light on such buildings?

Crowds tend to gather around the palaces, but I’m different — I prefer quieter spots, seeing different views. Maybe we can’t understand the people and events of 800 years ago, but we do know how we feel when admiring such palaces — our appreciation. I love admiring the beauty of architecture, the pure taste of light and shadow upon it.

Can you imagine how many women once walked here? I can’t. But all I see are people of our generation, admiring the beauty of the palace, lingering within its walls. The stories of the past bear witness to our changes, but truly cherishing, respecting, and valuing what’s around us is the real essence of life. No matter how much wealth or glory you possess, if you lack respect for others and basic decency, then what’s the point of boasting about traveling the world? If you don’t even understand basic manners, what you leave behind will truly be “history” — a “sad” history the world won’t forget.

Walking through the Mu Mansion, walking through the stories of Lijiang, I loved the simplicity here, loved looking in directions the guide didn’t point out. From any angle, I watched the people living here, the clothes drying outside, the colors of the roof tiles, the traces on the walls. The non-locals coming and going constantly stimulated us over these five days, XD. Our group had countless “epic tales” about these non-local tourists — but I won’t elaborate too much. I think those who understand can probably imagine.

Between the palaces, the exquisite court designs go without saying, and the plants and flowing water in the courtyards — maybe no amount of period dramas can truly convey their essence, or what they’re really like at night. Touching the stone walls, looking at the stone piers — no amount of imagining is as good as the real experience. Better to capture these unique scenes for real.

An elderly couple holding hands and walking away — when I saw them, I immediately raised my camera. But I was a bit too quick, and the photo seems a bit shaky. Their figures, around seventy years old, carry a feeling of nostalgia and emotion that always touches the heart, bathed in the warm sunlight, radiating pure happiness.

Each palace has its purpose and story. The guide spoke earnestly, and we listened intently. I’m someone who loves writing stories, but political and national tales often bore me to the point of yawning. Maybe I’ve long forgotten what’s true or not — sometimes, the warmth of the sun feels more real, XD.

After leaving 【Mu’s Mansion】, we headed to 【Dayan Ancient Town】 for lunch. The afternoon was spent freely exploring the ancient town—I took so many photos of the streets and scenes, which I’ll write about in the third travelogue later. ^~^


2014, Oct Yunnan Lijiang Five-Day Trip:
D1: Arrived in Lijiang at noon, lunch > Lashi Lake: horseback riding, wetland tour > Lijiang International Hotel
D2: Hiking to Wanfugong, Mu’s Mansion > sights of Dayan Ancient Town during day and night > Songcheng Lijiang Impression Show
D3: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Impression Lijiang Show > cable car to Niu Ping > battery car tour of Blue Moon Valley, Baishui River > Ganhaizi > sea of Persian chrysanthemums > Yuquan Village
D4: Yunpu Tianxia > Black Dragon Pool, Yuquan Park > Baisha Murals > Shuhe Ancient Town > Pullman Resort Hotel
D5: Flew back to Taiwan at noon
 

Author of this article:［Enjoy life, never boring. Gui Xiao Sun］