So this is what natural umami tastes like? Japan’s “Dashi Man” crafts broth from dried bonito

▲ Dashi Man, Shinsuke Nakahara.

Reported and photographed by You Ru / Kagoshima

The essence of Japanese cuisine lies not only in fresh ingredients and precise measurements but also in a well-made broth. Japanese chefs place great importance on dashi, considering it the soul of cooking. In Kagoshima, Kyushu, Japan, there emerged a master broth-maker who calls himself“Dashi Man”— a broth-making expert who uses two types of dried bonito flakes and kelp to extract a natural, delicious broth with a pure flavor. Many Japanese chefs make special trips here just to experience the soul of a truly good bowl of soup.


▲ Clear golden-yellow color, with bits of dried bonito gently swaying in the broth.

Known as the “Dashi Man,” Shinsuke Nakahara is the second-generation owner of Nakahara Suisan, a local fishery in Kagoshima. Nearly 40% of Japan’s dried bonito is produced here. Growing up surrounded by the family’s bonito factory and immersed in the aroma of dried bonito, Nakahara described how, over the years, he witnessed more and more Japanese people replacing homemade dashi with instant bouillon powder, forgetting the fragrance of traditional natural broths. “If no one knows the value of natural dashi, then no matter how good the dried bonito is, no one will buy it.”

So Nakahara dedicated himself to promoting dried bonito. In the countryside of Kagoshima, he transformed a century-old house into a classroom, tucked away in the middle of a farm field. Though the exterior looks unremarkable, it has become an important hub for the Dashi Man to promote natural dashi. When the afternoon sun shines through the windows, the carefully prepared broth is poured into bowls, revealing a clear golden-yellow color with bits of dried bonito gently swaying inside.


▲ Dashi Man’s dashi classroom.

 
▲ Left: Ara-juku; Right: Honkarebushi.

Visitors who make reservations can watch Nakahara personally demonstrate how to prepare a delicious broth. He uses Hokkaido kelp and two types of homemade dried bonito: “Ara-juku,” which is fresh and aged only two to three weeks, and “Honkarebushi,” which is matured with mold and aged four months to a year. The kelp is first boiled just before reaching boiling point, then removed. Next, large amounts of thinly sliced Ara-juku and Honkarebushi are added, left to steep for 3 to 5 minutes, and then filtered using paper towels and a sieve. The result is a golden-yellow dashi.

The light golden broth carries the rich aroma of Ara-juku dried bonito. On the palate, it offers a sweet umami from the fish, with a hint of smokiness, and leaves a lingering sweetness in the throat — completely different from the dry, parched feeling left by commercial bouillon powders. Nakahara said that during the three years of his promotion efforts, many visitors from Taiwan, Hong Kong, and mainland China came to taste the natural flavor of the broth. “Broth is the foundation of everything, and for me, it’s also an important cultural heritage.” He believes promoting natural ingredients can support health and sustain family businesses. “The Dashi Man” will continue to uphold this belief and pass on the taste of natural dashi.

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Nakahara Suisan Co., Ltd.
Website: http://www.geocities.jp/maruyo_nakaharasuisan/
Phone: 0993-72-2211