Who says accommodations in Japan have to be expensive? A must-have collection of 9 Kyoto guesthouses for backpackers

Text & Photos /Annie

Among Super Hotel Sakaisanjuku, Toyoko Inn Sakaidaigaku, Toyoko Inn Karasuma Sakaisanjuku, Shijonishidoin Hotel Mystays Kyoto, I personally prefer the room at Shijonishidoin Hotel Mystays Kyoto and the transportation access of Super Hotel Sakaisanjuku. However, I didn’t take good photos to document these business hotels back then, so I couldn’t write a comparison article.

Later, since most of my trips were solo, staying at business hotels wasn’t very cost-effective—especially when you get a room all the way in the back corner by yourself. That’s when the scary Japanese ghost stories would start playing endlessly in my head. The advantage of staying at a guesthouse (shared room) is that you have someone to sleep with, so you don’t have to worry or feel scared (just worry about your roommate’s snoring). Sometimes you can even exchange travel tips with them. In recent years, more and more guesthouses have been opening in Kyoto—there’s almost always a new one set to open every few months (and I’m always torn about which one to try next).

The main difference between business hotels and guesthouses is that business hotels have private bathrooms and TVs, while guesthouses mostly have shared bathrooms and often no TVs (which can be tough for fans of Japanese TV shows). As for the front desk staff, I find that guesthouse staff generally speak better English and are more helpful. Regarding internet, which is a top concern these days, guesthouses usually offer free Wi-Fi and even free computers for guests to use.

Below is a summary of the guesthouses I’ve stayed at, along with my personal ratings. Figure 1 shows four from 2012, and Figure 2 shows five from this year (2014).

1) RAKUZA
Accommodation Review [Kyoto Stay] My First Machiya Guesthouse Experience – RAKUZA
http://rakuza.gh-project.com/index.html
Address: 255-2 Miyagawa-suji, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto
Phone: 075-561-2242
Transportation: Take the city bus to “Sakaisanjuku-ekihigashi” or walk 1 minute from Exit 1 of Keihan Yodoyabashi Sakaisanjuku

%Located just behind Gion Namba Theatre, it has the best transportation access among these four. There’s also a Fresco supermarket nearby, but unfortunately, there’s no kitchen for self-catering. I dropped off my luggage in the afternoon and asked the staff to activate my b-mobile, and when I came back to check in later, I found my luggage had already been carried into the room by a seemingly slender staff member. The guesthouse has three floors, with rooms divided into Western-style and Japanese-style. They range from a tiny single room as small as three tatami mats to larger Japanese rooms that can accommodate 2–4 people. I remember that since it was my first time staying at a guesthouse, I’d heard horror stories about shower lines lasting until midnight, so I was so worried about not getting a shower that I went at 5 PM. But looking back, I could’ve just gone to a nearby public bath instead.

2) KAZARIYA
Accommodation Review [Kyoto Stay] Second Guesthouse Experience – KAZARIYA
http://kazari-ya.com/index.html
Address: 184 Higashi-Kazariya-cho, Muromachi-nishiiru, Gojo-dori, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto
Phone: 075-351-1711
Transportation: Take city bus No. 5 to “Karasuma-Gojo” and walk about five minutes

%The location is in the Gion area, but it’s a bit further from the main spots. When I lived in Gion before, I only visited Yasaka Shrine and the shopping streets around it. This area is a bit quieter, but the bus stop is still quite convenient. It takes no more than a short while to get to Kyoto Station or Sakaisanjuku. There’s also a Fresco supermarket nearby, and I often bought food to cook at KAZARIYA. Although the whole building has Wi-Fi, I found the signal in the dorm room to be quite weak and unreliable, so I usually went to the little courtyard to chill and go online.

3) ROKU ROKU
Accommodation Review [Kyoto Stay] A Peaceful Guesthouse by the Philosopher’s Path – ROKU ROKU
http://www.6969.me.uk/japanese/index.html
Address: 61 Teranomaecho, Kiyotaki, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto
Transportation: Take city bus No. 5 to “Shinnyodo” and walk about one minute

%The location is a bit further from the city center compared to the others, but it’s peaceful and quiet. I actually liked the tranquility near the Philosopher’s Path. The owner is a somewhat strict (but kind-hearted) uncle who will explain the house rules during check-in. I thought his rules were reasonable and not too bothersome. Unlike most guesthouses housed in renovated machiya townhouses, ROKU ROKU is a standalone house, so the rooms feel much more upscale. For the bathroom facilities, the owner even set up a separate bathroom in the female dorm and another bathroom with a bathtub outside the rooms (so no need to worry about shower queues). The owner may have many rules, but he’s genuinely kind—for example, I even received a New Year’s card from him last year.

4) Kyoto Haruya
Accommodation Review [Kyoto] A Machiya Guesthouse – Kyoto Haruya (Store No. 1)
http://www.yado-haruya.com/room/index.html
Jalan : http://ppt.cc/0_v9
Address: 542-4 Kogawa-cho, 2-nichome-sagaru, Shirakawa-bashi, Sanjo-dori, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto 605-0026
Phone: 075-533-3310
Transportation: Take the city bus to “Higashiyama-Sanjyo” and walk about three minutes
Kyoto Haruya is located right in the Kogawa-cho shopping street

One thing I really liked about this homestay is that sometimes bookings on Agoda can be cheaper. I really enjoy the common lounge area here—it's wonderful to snuggle up in the kotatsu during winter. The only downside is that the sink is outside, so washing up in winter is unbearably cold. The dorm room was the smallest I’ve ever stayed in; the hallway is barely wide enough for one person. But I found it acceptable since it’s just for sleeping and I don’t have high demands.

5) KingyoYA Guesthouse
Accommodation Review [Kyoto Stay] Nishijin Traditional Townhouse Guesthouse KingyoYA
http://kingyoya-kyoto.com/
Address: 243 Kizamachi, Kamigyō-ku, Kyoto, Kyoto Prefecture
Phone: 075-411-1128
Transportation: Take City Bus No. 206 and get off at "Konden-chō-mae," then walk 5 minutes

6) ITOYA Stand Guesthouse & Bar (Itoyagen No. 2)
Accommodation Review [Kyoto Stay] Nishijin ITOYA Stand Guesthouse & Bar (Itoyagen No. 2)
http://www.itoya-stand.com/
Address: 203 Arima-chō, Kuramaguchi-dōri Gojō-sagaru, Kamigyō-ku, Kyoto
Phone: 075-441-0078
Transportation: Take City Bus and get off at "Imadegawa-Kuramaguchi," then walk 1 minute

7) Kan’an Guesthouse
Accommodation Review [Kyoto Stay] Karasuma-Gofukumachi – Kan’an Guesthouse
Official Website: http://www.kyoto-shiorian.com/index.html
JALAN : http://www.jalan.net/yad316248/?contHideFlg=1
Address: 339 Kagiya-chō, Karasuma-nishi-iru, Karasuma-dōri, Shimogyō-ku, Kyoto
Phone: 075-361-1696
Transportation: Take Bus and get off at "Karasuma-Gofukumachi," then walk 1 minute

8) Khaosan Kyoto Guest House
Accommodation Review [Kyoto Stay] Shijō-Kawaramachi Khaosan Kyoto Guest House
http://www.khaosan-tokyo.com/ja/kyoto/
Address: 68 Teramachi-dōri, Nishiiru, Shimogyō-ku, Kyoto, Kyoto Prefecture
Phone: 075-201-4063
Transportation: Take Bus and get off at "Shijō-Kawaramachi" or take Hankyu Railway and get off at "Kawaramachi"

9) Uronza
Accommodation Review [Kyoto Stay] Tangible Cultural Property Townhouse Guesthouse Uronza
http://www.uronza.com/
Address: 427 Yōhōji-chō, Sorikōji-dōri, Ayakojimae-sagaru, Shimogyō-ku, Kyoto
Transportation: Get off at "Shijō-Horikawa" bus stop, then walk 2 minutes

Many guesthouses in Kyoto have sister locations, so you can find info about other accommodations on their official websites. Most guesthouses don’t raise prices much between peak and off-peak seasons, but business hotels become insanely expensive during busy times. I once stayed in a single room at Super Hotel during cherry blossom season and it cost nearly ¥9,000. After getting used to staying in a guesthouse for just ¥2,500 a night, it felt crazy how much I used to spend on business hotels before.

Annie @ Travel, Food & Play
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