Retro Train Station Restaurant on Tokyo Streets: Sizzling Live Lobster Grilled to Seal in Freshness

Text & Photos /Xiao Sheng

Though I enjoy seafood, I’ve never been particularly passionate about it—until I had my first unforgettable encounter with its ocean-fresh flavors here. It’s just a shame such an amazing place isn’t in Taiwan, but in… Tokyo, Japan.

The Nakano area in Tokyo is a mecca for anime fans, with many coming here to hunt for figurines. But our purpose in visiting Nakano wasn’t anime—it was a legendary izakaya my brother had raved about from years ago. To get to Nakano, you can take the JR Chuo Line or the Tozai Subway Line. Heading toward the north exit leads you to a shopping street, a mere 230-meter stretch packed with stores. Beyond figurines, there are plenty of clothing shops and a lively crowd of shoppers.

Perpendicular to the shopping street lies a lane filled with restaurants—ramen shops, yakiniku joints, and plenty of izakayas. Many of these spots are tiny and unassuming. Our target, Rukujou (陆蒸), was tucked away in one of these modest alleys.

Since we decided to visit spontaneously, finding Rukujou took some effort. Compared to the low-key shops nearby, Rukujou stood out with its bold, distinctive retro vibe. Just the exterior exuded old-school Japanese charm, but the interior was even more unique.

You can spot it by the grilled fish sign upon entering the shopping street. Though the sign is large, the address was nowhere to be found online at first. The first address we found turned out to be wrong, and it wasn’t until we located the second one that we finally found it. We later realized searching for “Rukujou” yielded little info, but “Rukujou (陆蒸)” brought up the correct details. It’s just a 3-minute walk from Nakano Station—extremely convenient.

Beyond its retro aesthetic, the most striking feature is its train-station-themed design: platform signs and traffic lights evoke a bygone era. It’s surprising to find such a nostalgic touch in bustling Tokyo, especially since such retro signage is rare in Japan (though still seen in Taiwan). I suspect the name “Rukujou (陆蒸)” hints at this inspiration.

Inside, the shop is filled with vintage collectibles displayed in glass cases around the first-floor perimeter, while the open kitchen in the center lets diners watch the chefs at work and interact with them. Though the second floor has seats, the first floor is where the atmosphere truly shines.

The restaurant is only open in the evenings, and reservations are usually required. Since we arrived in Tokyo in the afternoon and hadn’t eaten lunch, we initially planned to grab a snack, have yakiniku for dinner, and visit Rukujou in a couple of days. But we decided to check if it was open—and luck was on our side. Operating hours are 4 PM to 10 PM, and we arrived right at 4 PM, scoring a seat without a reservation.

For those wanting to sit at the counter and watch the chefs in action, arriving before 4 PM ensures the best seats (though reservations may also allow seat selection).

All seafood at Rukujou is live, cooked to order. Though the chefs don’t speak English, an English menu is available. When communication fails, they simply bring the live ingredients over for you to see. Portions vary daily, so arriving early is wise. Though we weren’t the first customers, only two lobsters remained by our turn—so we ordered both.

After ordering the lobster and prawns, the chefs skewered the lively creatures and placed them near the charcoal grill. Rukujou’s signature charcoal grilling was on full display as we watched the lobsters and prawns struggle—almost too vividly—as they turned red. But this method ensures unparalleled freshness and flavor.

Appetizer (¥480): Served per person, this small side dish (likely mandatory) featured pickled vegetables and fish—tasty and well-seasoned.

Miso Eggplant (¥580): At first glance, this charred black dish was unrecognizable—until we learned it was eggplant. Rukujou roasts the eggplant, then tops it with black miso and scallions. It was unlike any eggplant dish I’d seen before.

Though I’m not usually an eggplant fan, Rukujou’s version was surprisingly addictive. The roasted aroma paired unexpectedly well with the miso, and the scallions elevated the dish. The texture took some getting used to, but the flavor was truly unique.

Butter Potato with Octopus (¥580): A quirky fusion of buttery potatoes and pickled octopus. The grilled potato, halved and served with butter for dipping, melted into a rich, fragrant treat. The salty octopus contrasted with the sweet potato, yet the combination worked surprisingly well—I loved the texture.

Sea Snail (¥900): This dish stole the show, served sizzling atop flaming sea salt. The dramatic presentation was as delightful as the flavors.

I’m not sure what type of giant snail this was, but the meat was incredibly fresh and springy. A bamboo stick was provided for easy eating—though the first two chunks were so large, we almost missed the hidden third piece tucked inside. The portion was amazingly generous.

Squid Sashimi (¥750): Inspired by a neighboring table, my brother ordered this. The squid was ultra-fresh, perfect for sashimi, enhanced by grated ginger and scallions. The texture was slightly slimy (normal?), but it was delicious.

Prawns (¥980): The very prawns we’d watched “suffer” were now massive, chopstick-length specimens. My sister said they were tasty (I don’t eat shrimp, so I can’t say).

Yakizakana (Grilled Fish, ¥700): A common dish in Japanese cuisine, but this version stood out—delicately textured, moist, and infused with smoky saltiness from the charcoal grill.

Fish Cheeks (¥1500): Though fish cheeks are common in Taiwan, I’d never seen such oversized ones. My sister claimed they exist in Taiwan too, but I remain skeptical.

These cheeks were phenomenal—the crispy skin gave way to melt-in-your-mouth, tender meat. The accompanying sauce was rich and appetizing. Though I wasn’t hungry upon arrival, this dish left me craving more, eventually driving me to eat extra potatoes for satiety.

Snow Crab (¥2600 per serving): Pricing was confusing—a single crab listed at ¥2600, but the bill showed “2 crabs.” With so many legs but only one shell, the portion remains a mystery.

Crab isn’t usually my thing (I struggle with the shells), but Rukujou pre-sliced each leg and provided a spoon, making it easy to enjoy. It was my first time eating so much crab, and the natural sweetness of the fresh meat spoke for itself—no heavy seasonings needed.

Lobster (Market Price ¥4780): Priced seasonally, ours cost around NT$1300. While I’m unsure of Taiwanese lobster prices, my brother said this was a steal. The chef presented the live lobsters to us before cooking. Though smaller than Taiwanese varieties, their meat was thick, tender, and bursting with freshness—truly exceptional.

When ordering, the chef brought the lobsters over for us to inspect—hence our decision to take the last two. As seen in the “grilling” photo, these lobsters were smaller than Taiwan’s, but the meat was succulent, springy, and incredibly fresh. The quality was outstanding, earning rave reviews from all of us.

This fish was something we saw the next table over ordering just as we were leaving. It looked so delicious that I took a picture of it—maybe I’ll be able to order it on a future visit. Ryujunkei Izakaya excels both in ingredient quality and cooking techniques. After trying it, I found myself missing the taste even after returning to Taiwan. Our group of five ate quite a lot, plus we ordered three more beers and two umeshus, yet the total came to only ¥33,815, which is just under NT$9,000 (prices may vary slightly due to exchange rates). Since we don’t usually buy seafood in Taiwan, my sister said that eating this much back home would easily cost over NT$10,000. This is Japan, and not only are the ingredients fresh, but they’re also delicious and high-quality. No matter the price in Taiwan, the amazing flavor here gives it far better value for money compared to seafood back home. Next time I come to Tokyo, I’ll definitely visit Ryujunkei again.

Original Charcoal-grilled Q< 陆蒸l
Address: 5-59-3 Nakano, Nakano City, Tokyo (3-minute walk from JR Nakano Station North Exit)
TEL: 03-3228-1230
Business Hours: 16:00–22:00

Xiaosheng’s Wandering Journey
Every journey, every trip is a quest—even if I’m not entirely sure what I’m searching for—but in the end, I always gain more than I ever imagined. That’s why my wandering journey will continue, without end.