Authentic German and Austrian home-style dishes: German pork knuckle and handmade minced pasta

Text and photos by /KUNI

(The amazing German pork knuckle at Ba Shizi)

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Ba Shizi German Restaurant Der Löwe
Address: No. 19, Lane 63, Section 2, Dunhua South Road, Da’an District, Taipei City
Phone: (02)2325-6457
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First of all, I really have to say: "Thank you, Ba Shizi, for letting me enjoy high-quality German pork knuckle anytime in Taipei."

It’s been over three years since my first visit, and now returning to the basement on Dunhua Lane, time has transformed the once bright and colorful space into brick red tones. The wooden floors have taken on a darker hue, and the affordable chairs have evolved into traditional German beer benches (Biergartengarnitur). Perhaps lacking the opulence of French cuisine or the delicate touch of Japanese fare, the down-to-earth German approach feels familiar to me.

(Inside the restaurant)

Aside from the classic German pork knuckle (NT$680), I couldn’t help but exclaim upon seeing Kartoffelsalat (NT$160) on the menu. Directly translated as potato salad, it’s a common traditional side dish in German-speaking regions. Known as the best friend of Wiener Schnitzel, it’s also one of my favorite hometown dishes.

In a glance, I also spotted Bavarian-style handmade minced beef pasta (NT$360), with the prominent word Rindergulasch (or Rindsgulasch) below. This incredibly nostalgic beef dish originates from Hungary, characterized by its deep red color and bold flavors thanks to chili, onion, Kümme, and garlic. In German-speaking areas, it’s as ubiquitous as lu rou fan (braised pork rice) is in Taiwan.

Today’s potato salad was slightly tangy with a hint of sweetness—not direct sweetness, but rather a natural sweetness drawn out from the starch by the acidity. White vinegar was used without being overpowering; it truly had a German taste, which is no small feat. I remember German Farmer’s Kitchen in Wenshan District once tried to make some for me, but back then the potatoes weren’t cooked just right, and the vinegar flavor stood out too much. After being away from Europe for so many years, rediscovering that old flavor today is deeply moving.

(Potato salad)

(German bread)

(Germany’s national drink: Apfelsaftschorle)

(Soup)

German-style handmade minced pasta (Spätzle) is somewhat similar to Italian gnocchi, though the former contains eggs while the latter is primarily potato-based. Today, the Gulasch sauce had a clear soul, though unfortunately it lacked depth and didn’t quite pair perfectly with the minced pasta. But no big deal—after all, the main highlight of the meal, the Schweinshaxe (also called Stelze), was yet to come.

(German-style minced pasta with Gulasch sauce)

Ba Shizi’s German pork knuckle has always been my top choice in Taipei. My first visit in early 2012 was already impressive, but three years later, it has clearly evolved. The beautifully golden roasted crust is even more stunning, and the texture is consistently excellent. The juiciness, tenderness, and gelatinous quality of the meat inside have improved even further. If I were to nitpick, it might be the flavor and the sauce—I really miss the classic yellow mustard (Senf) and horseradish (Kren) from before.

(Pork knuckle from my 2012 visit)

(Even more refined in 2015)

(The crust is roasted so beautifully)

(Crispy outside, juicy and tender inside)

German cuisine doesn’t hold a high status in Taiwan, unable to compare with European counterparts like Italian or French food. It lacks the fiery passion of Southern Europe and doesn’t boast flashy presentation. But just like the practical nature of Germans, the care and attention to detail in the cooking are truly unquestionable. Unfortunately, the Taiwanese market isn’t large, and there aren’t many German restaurants willing to truly establish themselves here. So it’s a real delight to have a place like Ba Shizi, where you can occasionally savor delicious Bavarian-style roast pork knuckles and potato salad.
 

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