A taste that has endured for 50 years!“Eight” fingers kneading out basket after basket of xiaolongbao

Text & photos byOrange Dog Loves Candy

Many beloved street foods probably didn’t foresee becoming so popular with endless lines at the start. Most began as a way to support the family, setting up from a single street cart and enduring years of sun and rain, selling the same flavors day after day. But because of this unwavering dedication to family and genuine care for loyal patrons, decades flew by—four or five of them. We now might think these well-known snacks are an easy path to wealth, but little do we know how much hard work has built up to this success. Moreover, “preserving the original flavor” is no easy feat—it’s not just about maintaining your own brand, but also safeguarding the memories of longtime customers. That day, while passing by Model Street, I remembered a place a friend had recommended here: [Ye Xiaolongbao], which was said to be quite delicious. Since it was past lunchtime and the crowds had thinned, I decided to have my afternoon meal there and enjoyed a relaxing late afternoon.

At first glance, you might not guess that [Ye Xiaolongbao] is actually a 50-year-old establishment, given its modern storefront. Model Street has a fair number of office workers and local residents, so several snack shops here do brisk business, often full from early morning. Ye Xiaolongbao has only been around for less than a year on this street, making it somewhat of a newcomer.

But in truth, they’ve been operating in the Shuins Market area for 50 years, starting with just the old man and a street cart. The young shop owner’s wife shared that these xiaolongbao carry the taste and craftsmanship her father has upheld since she was a child. This little stall raised the whole sibling brood. There was a time when the hard work became too much, and he briefly left to work in a factory—but an accident injured his fingers, so he returned to making dough and shaping buns using those eight fingers. Missing key digits made the job far more difficult, yet the old man persevered with determination until today.

Moving to the new shop was tough for the old man—he was truly attached to the old cart spot after 50 years. Even after relocating, he still personally kneads the dough and makes buns in the kitchen every day, giving on-site guidance and adjusting the dough based on daily weather conditions. It’s a true craftsman’s spirit maintained for 50 years without fail. Even though his strength isn’t what it used to be, and even though the shop is gradually being handed over to his children, he hasn’t missed a single day.

All this talk stems from my deep curiosity about the stories behind food—they’re essential seasoning. As I was thinking, the shop owner’s wife came over to check if we liked the buns today, XD, and we got to chatting. The current shop is clean and simple, with not too much decoration, but I actually really like the stylish color tone of the shop sign, XD. The menu here is simple → [Signature Xiaolongbao, Spicy & Sour Soup, Homemade Soy Milk, Black Tea]. Just those four items. But they do offer a great-value combo set for just NT$100—basically, you get a drink with your order.

[Signature Xiaolongbao │ 8 pieces per basket │ NT$70]
I’ve noticed some people confuse soup dumplings with xiaolongbao, thinking all buns should burst with hot soup. There are many kinds of dough-based foods, and not all are suited for soupy explosions—the type of wrapper makes a difference. The Ye family uses old dough starter, and if you’ve bought buns made with old dough, you’ll recognize the texture of the wrapper just like this.

The shop owner mentioned that due to the weather today, the dough was a bit firmer, so the buns weren’t as perfectly shaped. That’s why she kept coming over to check how we found them. But honestly, the appearance doesn’t detract from the flavor. While they might not burst with juice, the pork filling is refreshingly sweet and savory. What really surprised me was the aroma and chewiness of the wrapper. I don’t know the exact process, but that old-dough fragrance somehow mingles with the meat, lingering on the palate until the last bun is gone. Truly, the taste of 50 years of tradition is no exaggeration.

[Spicy & Sour Soup │ NT$25]
The spicy & sour soup comes with plenty of ingredients, and for NT$25, it’s quite a generous portion. It’s not very acidic, nor particularly spicy, but there’s chili sauce available on the side if you want more heat (just saying). There seems to be a hint of sweetness from sugar, but it’s not too obvious.

For those who love really strong sour and spicy flavors, it might feel a bit mild, but it suits my preference just fine.

[Homemade Soy Milk │ NT$15]
The shop proudly uses Canadian soybeans to make fresh soy milk every morning. They don’t add too much sugar—the sweetness is just right—not overly thick, but not watery either, with a smooth and slightly rich texture. The trio is priced just right as a combo.

I’d walked past [Ye Xiaolongbao] a few times before but never went in, since I had no idea it originated from Shuins Market. It was only after a friend’s recommendation that I finally stepped in a year after it opened—and was pleasantly surprised by how much better the buns tasted than I expected. While writing this, I’m trying to recall that wonderful aroma of fermented old dough. These days, it’s rare to come across such flavors. This is just my personal take—you might not love it as much as I do—but the fact that a taste preserved for 50 years is still around must mean something. Model Street was quiet in the afternoon, the lunchtime rush had faded, and enjoying a solitary moment with xiaolongbao was quite the delight.

◎ Shop Info: [Ye Xiaolongbao Model Street │ West District]
◎ Address: No. 30, Model Street, West District, Taichung City
◎ Phone: 04-23028436
◎ Business Hours: 9:00 AM – 8:00 PM
◎ Note: For closure days, please check the shop’s Facebook page. Open all other days.

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