Deep in the mountains of Jiufen: Wooden lodge cuisine with a must-try signature late-night diner “cat rice”!

Text and photos byA Man’s Daily Life
(Text by Man E, Photography by Man)

I never expected that hidden deep in the mountainous area of Ruifang, Jiufen, and Jinguashi, there would be a secluded mountain lodge restaurant. Shi Bu Yan has actually been open for quite some time. Its former location was on Jiufen Old Street, but it has since moved to its current spot. In addition to signature home-style dishes like mackerel overnight dry and cat rice, they also serve Italian and pour-over single-origin coffee from ABOUT Cafe. Currently, they operate at three fixed times of the day. Breakfast requires advance reservation to be available. It seems this place has long been a hidden paradise that regular visitors make sure to stop by every time they come to Jiufen.

Shi Bu Yan is located at No. 221, Jinguang Road, Ruifang District — a place that seems very inconvenient in terms of transportation. When I arrived, I thought you could only get here by car, but it turns out there’s actually a bus stop (Liuhaoqiao Stop) just a 2–3 minute walk away. In addition to the direct bus (1062) to Taipei’s Zhongxiao Fuxing MRT Station, there’s also bus (788) that goes straight to Ruifang Station. However, the 1062 bus route doesn’t include the Liuhaoqiao stop. After arriving in Jiufen Old Street, you can inform the driver that you need to get off at Liuhaoqiao Stop. Since Liuhaoqiao Stop is located halfway between Jiufen Old Street and Jinguashi, it’s just a 2–3 minute walk from there to Shi Bu Yan.

In addition to indoor seating, Shi Bu Yan also offers unique outdoor seating by the roadside. But if you want to sit outside and enjoy the wild charm of mountain dining, be sure to wear long pants or bring mosquito repellent — the mosquitoes here don’t hold back. I remember we only stayed at the outdoor seating for less than five minutes taking photos, and both my arms and legs were covered in bites. We had to quickly retreat indoors. We also encountered the amusing scene of the café’s kitten trying to snatch our food.

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Cat rice is arguably the signature dish that every customer at Shi Bu Yan must try. It was inspired by the owner after watching Midnight Diner. The dish is simply white rice with soy sauce and dried bonito flakes. J thought the sweet-and-salty flavor of the cat rice was quite good, but personally, I preferred the combination of plain white rice with other side dishes.

%枷懔峡炯ν趣150 / Tender chicken thigh meat, grilled fragrantly with just the right amount of spice, perfect when paired with rice.

%济咳帐笔撙150 / The daily cabbage and mushroom stir-fry — the vegetables are fresh and slightly sweet, with a faint earthy aroma from the mushrooms, giving a refreshing texture.

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The mackerel overnight dry at Shi Bu Yan is first air-dried overnight, then slow-roasted. The whole fish comes out crispy on the outside while the inside remains tender and juicy. With just the right amount of charred flavor, as someone who loves fish, I almost finished the entire fish, almost not leaving even the bones. One fish just didn’t seem enough. Dining in this old, uniquely styled restaurant also adds a special charm — perhaps what you’re really enjoying here is the freedom and leisure of the mountains.

Shi Bu Yan
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Address: No. 221, Jinguang Road, Ruifang District, New Taipei City
Business Hours: Monday to Sunday: 08:00 – 09:30 (breakfast requires advance booking), 11:30 – 15:00, 17:00 – 21:00
Phone: 0911 827 844
Transportation: The 1062 bus goes directly to Taipei’s Zhongxiao Fuxing MRT Station, and bus 788 goes straight to Ruifang Station. However, the 1062 bus does not stop at Liuhaoqiao. After arriving at Jiufen Old Street, you can inform the driver that you need to get off at Liuhaoqiao Stop. Since Liuhaoqiao Stop is located halfway between Jiufen Old Street and Jinguashi, it’s just a 2–3 minute walk from there to Shi Bu Yan.

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