A Nighttime Beauty: Lakeside Restaurant in Chiang Mai Serves Coconut-Rich Authentic Tom Yum Goong

Text & Photos /Xiao Sheng

When thinking of Thai cuisine, one cannot fail to mention Tom Yum Goong (Thai spicy and sour soup). However, after traveling to Chiang Mai many times, I finally tasted the most unforgettable Tom Yum Goong at a lakeside restaurant in the north. Since then, every return to Chiang Mai has meant a must-visit to this lakeside spot for a feast.

Located about four kilometers from the North Gate in Chiang Mai’s Old City lies the Hill Tribe Research Center. The museum sits beside a beautiful small lake, with several restaurants scattered along the eastern and southern shores. This delicious Thai restaurant is tucked away at the southeastern corner of the lake. With only a Thai name and no English signage, it's easy to find if you remember what the place looks like.

Though it’s a lakeside restaurant, the décor is nothing short of impressive. Colorful lights give it a slight nightclub vibe—very much in line with an authentically Thai aesthetic. Many locals also choose to dine here in this serene and picturesque setting. Just a few kilometers away from the city, it offers a rare and luxurious escape from urban hustle and bustle.

There’s a stage inside the restaurant, suggesting that live musicians might perform, though the timing remains unclear. In any case, the establishment often plays Thai music—sometimes upbeat, sometimes lively—creating a relaxed and pleasant atmosphere. Nearby, the restaurant also displays motorcycles.

Dining in this beautiful lakeside restaurant with a gentle breeze is truly comfortable. Enjoying the lakeside scenery and the owner’s creative touches, I always thought the idea of displaying bicycles fitted with lights in the lake was quite ingenious. It makes for a leisurely night-time feast.

This is a very interesting dish—Drunk Live Shrimp. When the lid is first lifted, beware: the live, wriggling shrimp will jump out. Everyone was scrambling to catch the fleeing shrimp—it was so much fun. But soon enough, the shrimp soaked in alcohol become intoxicated and motionless, ready to be eaten. As it’s a shrimp dish, I had to sit this one out.

Bitter Melon with Raw Shrimp—another shrimp dish I couldn’t try, XD.

Golden Prawn Cakes—these are among the most iconic Thai dishes. Moon Prawn Cakes are actually Taiwanese, XD. The crispy, juicy golden prawn cakes were still beyond my reach.

Fresh Oysters—these are best enjoyed with some lettuce and a dash of chili sauce. The oysters are super fresh, although not from coastal waters, they have a slight earthy taste. The lettuce and chili sauce help balance it out, resulting in really great flavors.

Fried Fish—this is also a common dish in Chiang Mai. The fish is deep-fried with spices until extremely crispy, then served with a dipping sauce. The texture of the fried fish is wonderfully crunchy, and the flavor of the fresh fish blends with the spices in a unique way. The chili sauce is seriously spicy; though too hot for me, I really enjoy the bold contrast it brings when mixed with the fish.

Fried Chicken—the chicken skin is delightfully crispy, and the meat is tender and juicy. It’s really quite good. Chiang Mai fried chicken is generally delicious, but my favorite is still the fried chicken stall near Chiang Mai Gate.

This chicken dish is a bit hard to describe. It’s somewhat oily, but the hint of spiciness really enhances the flavor. It’s pretty tasty overall.

Stir-Fried Morning Glory—this is another vegetable dish I always order at Thai restaurants. Fresh and crisp morning glory, simply stir-fried, is incredibly delicious. By the way, although shrimp paste is sold in Thailand, it’s not typically stir-fried with morning glory—so shrimp paste morning glory is really a Taiwanese dish.

Papaya Salad—crisp and refreshing shredded green papaya with a unique spicy and aromatic flavor thanks to seasonings like fish sauce. It’s quite delicious and very appetizing.

Scrambled Eggs—just a regular, middle-of-the-road scrambled egg dish, ordered because a friend wanted some.

Here’s another kind of fried fish. In addition to the seasonings, this one is topped with some flaky ingredients (though I’m still not sure what they are). The golden, crispy fried fish paired with those ingredients not only reduces the greasiness but adds a double layer of crunch. I really love this version of fried fish.

The pièce de résistance is this ultimate Tom Yum Goong. Having traveled to Thailand many times and tasted many versions, each with their own unique character, it wasn’t until I came here that I truly understood what an exceptional Tom Yum Goong is. I’ve been longing to revisit this flavor ever since, so when I brought friends to Chiang Mai late last year, I insisted we come back here just to relive the taste of this uniquely spicy and sour soup.

The shrimp in the Tom Yum are very large, but as I can’t eat shrimp, I could only sip the broth to savor its enchanting flavor. Some Tom Yum broths are thick, others light—but this one has an exceptionally rich aroma of spices and coconut milk. I’d never had such a coconut-forward Tom Yum before. Though the coconut is prominent, it doesn’t overpower the other spices. Instead, it complements them and highlights the uniqueness of this Tom Yum. I still can’t forget how delicious it was.

This Tom Yum was ordered on my second visit. Both visits were with different friends, and as I don’t speak Thai, someone else did the ordering—I can’t say for sure whether the Tom Yum was the same both times. The container was different this time, and the shrimp were larger. Though the broth was just as excellent, and among the best I’ve had, it didn’t feel as uniquely flavorful as the first. Still, it’s absolutely worth a try.

After trying many Thai dishes in Chiang Mai, while authentic Thai food generally meets a high standard, this particular restaurant stands out as the one I admire the most. Especially that extraordinarily special Tom Yum Goong—it’s a flavor you won’t forget. The tranquil environment, far from the city noise yet not too far from downtown, makes it perfect for a peaceful and delicious evening.
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Lakeside Thai Cuisine
Location: Southeastern lakeside of the Hill Tribe Research Center, Chiang Mai, Thailand
(Search “Hill Tribe Research Center” on Google to find the lake)
 

Xiao Sheng’s Wandering Journey
Every journey, every trip is a quest. Though I’m not entirely sure what I’m searching for, what I ultimately gain is more than I ever imagined. And so, my wandering journey will continue endlessly.