Former hotel chef rolls up sleeves to cook up authentic Indian cuisine

Text & photos by /KUNI

(Grilled cheese mushrooms with red-heart guava purée and wine-soaked dried figs)

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Think Kitchen Joseph Bistro
Address: 1F, No. 13, Lane 69, Songjiang Rd., Zhongshan Dist., Taipei City
Phone: (02) 2508-1329
Hours: 11:30–14:00, 17:30–21:00 Tue–Sat
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When I heard that head chef Joseph had suddenly left the Garden Hotel and decided to set up his own Indian restaurant near the Itō dining scene, I was deeply intrigued. This Indian chef is no ordinary one—he had previously served as the executive head chef at the Regent Taipei. That’s a highly senior position overseeing administration, not one that usually involves hands-on cooking. Yet now, in his own restaurant, he takes care of everything—from preparation to cleaning—an impressive feat indeed.

I forgot my camera on the first visit, so there are no photos, but the brilliance of the lamb thymus was evident in its crisp fried form. This ingredient is rare in Taiwan—it’s a lymphatic organ from sheep that provides immunity in infancy before gradually losing its function. The first impression was of refinement, skill, and substance, making me eager to return. On the second visit, I learned my lesson—aside from bringing my camera, I also packed two spare batteries to avoid any regrets.

(Entrance)

(Open-air seating among the courtyard)

(Inside the restaurant)

Returning under the midday sun to the alleys of Songjiang Lane, the open kitchen and rows of spice jars instantly put me at ease.
I ordered:
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Tomato enzyme soda (NT$160)
Soup of the day (NT$120)
Grilled cheese mushrooms with red-heart guava purée and wine-soaked dried figs (NT$350)
Crispy pan-fried lamb thymus with arugula and tamarind sauce (NT$420)
For the main course, I chose clam curry (NT$450)
And a fish fillet pan-seared by Joseph using freshly delivered bigeye tuna (NT$680)
Dessert was yogurt mango (NT$220)
And spiced poached pears (NT$160)
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The dishes today were as bold and passionate as ever. The soup of the day was utterly irresistible, with the squid and radish complementing each other beautifully. The complimentary flatbread might have been a bit too salty, but the technique was masterful. The only repeat from the first visit, the lamb thymus, was unfortunately a misstep this time—likely overcooked, resulting in a dry interior lacking tenderness.

(Complimentary flatbread)

(Soup of the day)

Aside from that, there was also a service mix-up—the fish fillet was brought out earlier than scheduled. Although the order was off, the chef’s exquisite flavor sense remained astounding—even a simple fried fish showcased such well-balanced spices. While the juiciness could’ve been better, the Indian-style interpretation of the sea’s freshness was spot on. Since Joseph was preparing skewers for another table, he kindly made an extra piece for me to try. The tenderness and texture were impeccable, and though the Indian seasonings were rich once again, they offered a completely different experience from the seafood.

(Joseph grilling chicken skewers)

(Grilled cheese mushrooms with red-heart guava purée)

(Joseph’s bigeye tuna fillet)

(The bold use of spices is Joseph's signature)

(The grilled chicken skewers served)

(The lamb thymus, a bit of a miss on the second visit but still regrettable)

The chef’s exceptional fundamentals were never in doubt from the beef curry on the first visit, and today’s clam curry presented yet another surprising flavor profile. One might have thought India’s robust spices wouldn’t suit shellfish, or would even overpower their natural sweetness. But that wasn’t the case at all—the seasoning was completely different from the beef version. Visually lighter in color, it in no way diminished the complexity. At first, the briny flavor of the clams felt like a flute in an orchestra, momentarily subdued beneath the powerful sauce as expected, but gradually emerging again with each chew. (Joseph making the flatbread)

(The clam curry, with a different twist)

(The flatbread)

The dessert, spiced red wine pears, may not have been the perfect finale, though perhaps that too is part of Joseph’s style. In any case, the intense curing gave the dish a color palette so rich it felt almost unfamiliar. But knowing that he even makes his own yogurt and various basic sauces from scratch, it’s clear this gustatory experience is anything but accidental.

(The spiced red wine pears)

(Homemade mango yogurt)

The former executive head chef now personally cooking in the kitchen—watching him thread the marinated chicken with that heartfelt smile, an unguarded joy that is entirely genuine. Such passion and talent have been sorely absent among chefs lately. Simply put, it’s the top Indian restaurant in Taipei right now.
 

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