Drinking coffee at a scene from Lust, Caution, Taiwanese entrepreneurs establish Ichido’s golden brand

 

Written/Compiled by Chi Binghui, Reported by MOOK Editorial Department

Remember the opening and closing scenes in the movie Lust, Caution, where there is a mirroring moment? Tang Wei, trying to stay composed, borrows a phone from the restaurant to call Takeshi Kaneshiro, saying, “I’m at the Café Kaisiling.” This shows just how well-known the café was back in old Shanghai, a place often visited by artists and intellectuals, and one that became a setting in Eileen Chang’s writing.

 

Today, the old Café Kaisiling has moved elsewhere, and its original location is now run by “Ichido Cake.” The owner, known as “Mr. Ichido,” has deep ties with the master bakers of Café Kaisiling. After taking over the site in 2008, he treasured the opportunity and deliberately restored its 1930s ambiance, displaying old photos and antique furniture, allowing customers to enjoy delicious pastries while soaking in a nostalgic atmosphere.

Mr. Ichido’s real name is Tsai Ping-yung, a Taiwanese who has lived in Shanghai for many years. In 1999, he introduced refined Western pastries to Shanghai, insisting on using imported French butter for his creations. He also travels to Japan annually for inspiration, continuously innovating his pastry offerings. The main products include Japanese-style bread and cakes, French fine pastries, and traditional Chinese desserts. To date, his business includes three major brands—Ichido, i cake, and Ichido-i-café—with nearly 40 stores, and it has been ranked among the top three Western pastry and bakery shops on the Shanghai Dianping website.