Hidden Gems of Hong Kong: Old-World Charms in Midsummer

By TRAVELER Luxe Traveler

 

Have you been to Hong Kong many times—just “eating, shopping,” or wandering between Tsim Sha Tsui and Mong Kok? When people think of Hong Kong, many immediately picture a trendy, fashionable international metropolis, the third most densely populated place in the world, where the streets are always filled with hurried crowds. However, just a 20-minute ferry ride away, Hong Kong’s outlying islands offer travelers a completely different and surprising experience.

 

Hong Kong has 260 islands floating on the sea. Apart from Lantau Island and Lamma Island, Cheung Chau and Peng Chau are among the more populated and easily accessible outlying islands, where traces of the old, authentic Hong Kong lifestyle can still be found. The simple residents and unexpectedly tranquil atmosphere are part of the charm of Hong Kong’s outlying islands, leaving a deep impression on visitors. These islands not only present a refreshing side of Hong Kong but also allow travelers to embark on a relaxing, healing journey.

Taking a ferry from Central to Peng Chau takes about 25 minutes, and you’ll find yourself in a tranquil corner of Hong Kong. Among the more accessible main outlying islands of Hong Kong, while Lantau Island and Lamma Island usually attract more visitors, Peng Chau exudes a slower pace of life.

 

Yong An Street, not far from the pier, is home to the Peng Chau Market. It’s one of the island’s main streets, and even here, you won’t find the bustling scene of major streets on Lamma Island (like Ha Pun Road). Some small shops are open, others aren’t (even on the weekend when we visited), and the people walking around look more like local residents out for a stroll than tourists.

 

Influenced by the island’s unhurried atmosphere, wandering through its winding alleys becomes a natural thing to do. Coupled with the fixed ferry schedules, as long as you have a rough idea of the distance, you can wander around Peng Chau with ease. In fact, Peng Chau still has basic daily amenities—restaurants, shops, and barbershops appear along your walk. There’s even an abandoned theater on Yong An Street, indicating that Peng Chau was once quite bustling. In the afternoon sun, the empty signboards further emphasize the passage of time. Compared to markets on larger outlying islands, which often sell seafood and dried goods, Peng Chau—with no haggling between vendors and tourists—offers a market experience that feels closer to everyday life.

 

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Transportation: From Central Pier No. 6 (Exit E1 of Hong Kong MTR Station, walk through International Finance Centre Mall), take a direct ferry to Peng Chau. The market is within walking distance.

Arriving at Cheung Chau, the bustling Pei Ho Street near the pier is lined with shops of all kinds, including even a McDonald’s. It’s said that this McDonald’s serves the world’s only vegetarian burger made with mushrooms instead of beef—an adventurous eater might want to give it a try. Travelers planning to have dinner on Cheung Chau before returning to Hong Kong Island can ask locals about the location of the Cheung Chau Complex, which houses a market where you can buy fresh seafood to satisfy your craving for ocean flavors.

 

Located on Tai Hing Tai Road, the Cheung Chau Complex has three floors and an interesting layout. One section consists of offices, while another part is the wet market—which is our destination. This “combination” creates an atmosphere somewhat similar to Taipei’s Shui Yuan Market. According to information, the market has over 200 stalls, though we didn’t count them all, but there’s certainly too much to take in at a glance. Beyond the stalls selling fresh fish and dried goods, there are also fruit and vegetable stands, pickled vegetables, flower shops, fabric stores, and even incense and candle shops—everything you need for daily life.

 

Here, you can browse the stalls, compare prices, and choose the freshest seafood. Many nearby restaurants can cook it for you. The outdoor seating is simple but lets you better soak in the island atmosphere. Hand over your chosen seafood to the restaurant, pay a small preparation fee, and the chefs will cook it according to your preference. Before long, your selection turns into a delicious dish on your table. Add a plate of greens and a few bottles of beer, and you’ve got a delightful island feast.

 

[Info]

Address: 2 Tai Hing Tai Road, Cheung Chau, Hong Kong

Transportation: From Central Pier No. 5 (Exit E1 of Hong Kong MTR Station, walk through International Finance Centre Mall), take a direct ferry to Cheung Chau, taking about 30 to 55 minutes depending on the type of ferry.

The Family Trail is one of the best ways to explore the scenery of Lamma Island. The so-called Family Trail is essentially a hiking path, likely named as such because it’s enjoyable for families. The entire trail on Lamma Island is paved with concrete and clearly marked with signs, so as long as you have a general sense of orientation, you won’t get lost.

 

Generally, there are three Family Trail systems on Lamma Island. The first system starts from Yung Shue Wan in the northwest, the second connects Yung Shue Wan and Sok Kwu Wan, and the third is a loop in the southern part.

 

Both the starting and ending points of the northern loop are in Yung Shue Wan. Whether you begin near the stone steps close to the pier (about 300 meters from the pier) or walk along the main street until you see the signage, you’ll end up back at Yung Shue Wan after completing the trail. This section passes through Yung Shue Wan, Tai Ping, North Point Village, and Ao Tsai. At North Point Village, you can gaze at the view of Hong Kong Island’s Southern District across the strait. At North Point Pier, massive cargo ships from around the world come and go—truly living up to Hong Kong’s reputation as the world’s third busiest port in terms of cargo volume.

 

The trail from Yung Shue Wan to Sok Kwu Wan is one that most visitors to Lamma Island will walk at least once. Along the way, you’ll pass many scenic spots, especially several beaches. First is Big Wave Bay near the power station, and a few minutes ahead is Hung Shing Yeh Beach, a well-known swimming beach among the outlying islands. From there, head up the mountain, and you’ll soon come across a viewing platform offering views of the northwestern part of Lamma Island. Lo So Shing Beach is also great for a swim. After leaving Lo So Shing Bay and continuing along the path, the approximately two-hour trail ends as you reach Sok Kwu Wan.

 

The southern section of the Family Trail mostly follows the coastline, passing through less-populated areas like Mo Tat Wan, Yung Shue Ha, and Tung O, where the scenery is even more natural. Travelers interested in flora and fauna may encounter many surprises here. Another feature of the southern section is the abundance of unique rocks, though the terrain is more varied, so it’s best to go with someone familiar with the area.

 

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Transportation: Take a ferry from Pier 4 in Central (Exit E1 of Hong Kong Station on the MTR, walk through the International Finance Centre mall) to either Yung Shue Wan or Sok Kwu Wan on Lamma Island. The ferry ride takes about 30 minutes.

 

On the MacLehose Trail on Lamma Island, between Yung Shue Wan and Sok Kwu Wan, you’ll spot a white acrylic signboard with large characters that read “Kin Hing Ah Po Tofu Pudding Homemade & Frozen.” A closer look reveals smaller text: “Lamma Specialty — Silky & Sweet.” In the middle is an English description, and you’ll know you’ve found the famous Kin Hing Ah Po Tofu Pudding.

 

The so-called tofu pudding is essentially soybean curd dessert. The fame of Kin Hing Ah Po Tofu Pudding is well deserved. Whenever it’s open, there’s a constant flow of customers, and during hot weather, a long queue often forms in front of the stall — a true sign of its popularity. Although it’s called tofu pudding, the Hong Kong version differs slightly from the Taiwanese style. Here, the pudding is scooped directly from a metal bucket into a bowl without any syrup, and you can adjust the sweetness to your liking by adding brown sugar.

 

Kin Hing Ah Po Tofu Pudding has been in business for nearly 40 years. Although Cheng Bao, the maker, is now 75 years old and has switched from a manual stone mill to an electric one for grinding soybeans, everything else remains traditionally handmade. The silky tofu pudding is refreshingly cool in the summer heat. The shop also offers mung bean jelly and the base ingredient for tofu pudding — fresh soy milk — which is also highly recommended for its sweet flavor.

 

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Address: Near Tai Wan on Lamma Island, Hong Kong (along the Yung Shue Wan section of the MacLehose Trail)