As the enticing sweetness of summer watermelons and the delicate fragrance of lotus flowers gradually fade, the golden autumn season arrives, filling the streets with the rich aroma of candied roasted chestnuts. Bathed in crisp sunlight and surrounded by the gentle rustle of yellowing leaves, drive to Kunshan, where everything seems to shimmer in a faint orange hue. This autumn, this golden autumn, every autumn is worth savoring—with breathtaking scenery and delicious food, it’s time to have a “crabsational” encounter.
Since it’s such a beautiful encounter, you must know the origin of the name "Yangcheng Lake hairy crab." “A crab born elsewhere is just a crab, but one born in Yangcheng Lake is a hairy crab.” This is because local crab fishermen often set up bamboo gates in the bays and place lights on them at night. Crabs, being attracted to light, gather and crawl up the bamboo gates one by one, where they are caught—hence the name “gate crabs.” Moreover, thanks to the nutrient-rich waters of Yangcheng Lake, the larger “gate crabs” naturally become “hairy crabs.”
The Chinese relationship with crabs can be described as “love, loathing, and a touch of warfare.”
When the noble chrysanthemums, beloved by literati, bloom in vibrant clusters, inviting a few close friends to the courtyard, setting out fine wine, holding a crab while drinking, admiring the chrysanthemums, and composing poetry—truly one of life’s greatest pleasures. This is “love.”
When discussing the crab’s distinctive walking posture, one might recall the line from *Dream of the Red Chamber* by Xue Baochai: “No direction in the path before its eyes, empty black and yellow within its skin”—a metaphorical jab at human nature. This is “loathing.”
And then there’s the long history, from the days of the Zhou Dynasty emperors to recent deep autumns, when food lovers, upon encountering the season’s crabs, always choose the plumpest ones, “washing them, scrubbing them, steaming them, and eating them.” This is “warfare.”
In vast and resource-rich China, with its expansive waterways, there are naturally many places that produce crabs. Yet only the crabs of Yangcheng Lake, despite their long-standing fame, truly allow one to deeply feel the essence of the verse: “From afar I know the crabs of Lian Shui, already frosted by September; their massive golden bodies heavy, their plump white shells fragrant.” In the deep autumn season, stroll through Yangcheng Lake Crab Dock Park, wander around Bacheng Lake Market, admire the fishing boats’ lights, and revel in the charm of an ancient water town. Amidst the shimmering lake and mountain views and the aroma of fresh delicacies, quietly savoring a single crab—isn’t that the life you’ve always wanted to experience?
From a single crab to a journey of mindfulness, it all depends on the crab eater’s state of mind. Beautiful things are always worth waiting for, just like a date with Yangcheng Lake. Going too early ruins the experience, as the crabs haven’t fully matured yet, possibly leaving you with a bitter taste. Going too late brings disappointment, as the crabs are no longer at their plumpest, and you miss out on the joy and satisfaction of a mouthful of rich crab roe.
Autumn is in full swing, and Yangcheng Lake is ready for you. Are you prepared to return to Kunshan to renew your “annual appointment” with the crabs?