Freely glide through a world of pristine white powder snow
– A complete experience at Nagano ski resorts in central Japan
February 21, 2019 (Thursday)
At 16:45 in the afternoon, China Airlines flight CA159 departed punctually for Nagoya, Japan. The service on China Airlines has always been excellent. Arriving at Chubu Centrair International Airport in Nagoya at 22:00 local time, we passed through the arrival hall where Ms. Kake Fumika was already waiting for us at the entrance. After walking through the airport shuttle passage, it took just five minutes to reach the Comfort Inn hotel. The check-in process was very smooth, the room was spacious, fully equipped, and brand new.
February 22, 2019 (Friday)
After breakfast at the Comfort Hotel, we walked to Flight of Dreams located on the west side of the international airport. This experience hall was completed in the fall of 2018. The design and coordination with relevant U.S. departments took two years. The aircraft exhibition is part of the entire Seattle Terrace and is also the most central highlight of the venue. A Boeing 787 airplane is parked right in the center of the hall. Visitors can choose to board and visit the cockpit or enjoy the light show on the 4th floor. The light show lasts about 15 minutes and runs every half hour. Through changing lights, it presents a beautiful sci-fi story that blends the ocean, the universe, and flight. Many children ran around joyfully, shouting as the lights changed.
If standing and watching gets tiring, you can sit down at the restaurant on the 2nd floor, order a Starbucks coffee, a dessert, or a craft beer, and leisurely enjoy the light show. The overall experience at Seattle Terrace is fantastic, combining strong elements of the American West with refined Japanese service, making you feel as if you’ve truly arrived in Seattle without leaving the terminal.
Thanks to word of mouth, this place has become quite famous, and many families choose to spend time here during weekends. The new terminal building of Chubu Centrair International Airport is nearing completion and will soon begin operations. In the future, there will be even more flights and visitors here.
At noon, we returned to the airport to experience the internal facilities and services of Japan’s private airport. Today, February 22, is Japan’s famous Ninja Day, and there were many ninja-related promotions and displays here, with people even dressed in ninja costumes handing out small gifts to passersby.
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The departure hall at the back of Chubu Centrair International Airport is divided into east and west zones. The east side features Japanese architecture, while the west side is Western-style. The buildings house various restaurants, souvenir shops, and renowned local specialties. Surprisingly, there is even an onsen (hot spring) shop in the airport where you can enjoy a Japanese hot spring while watching planes take off and land – the price is incredibly cheap, almost unbelievable.
Currently, direct flights from Beijing to Chubu Centrair International Airport are operated by Air China, China Eastern Airlines, and Etihad Airways; direct flights from Shanghai are operated by Air China, Spring Airlines, China Eastern Airlines, and Juneyao Airlines. There are relatively few tourists here, and whether departing or arriving, there are hardly any lines, making for an excellent experience.
At 4:00 in the afternoon, we took a bus from the airport and arrived in Hakuba Village, Nagano Prefecture, after five hours. We stopped roughly three times, about 20 minutes each, where everyone could enjoy local cuisine at rest stops or shop for some local specialties. The bus had power outlets to charge phones, and there was also a survey questionnaire – those who filled it out had a chance to win a grand prize of a pair of skis. During the Japanese skiing season, there are two daily bus services to the various ski resorts in Hakuba, providing skiers with flexible scheduling options. The airport service is truly thoughtful.
February 23, 2019 (Saturday)
After a hearty breakfast at the Marion Shinano Hotel, we walked to the first ski resort of our inspection –Tsugaike Highland Ski Resort, where over 80% of the slopes are intermediate, making it especially suitable for visitors with some skiing experience. After arriving at the mid-station, we briefly stopped and experienced the WOW Kids’ Area. The three-tiered net zone is the most popular attraction for children, where parents and kids can climb and play together. The most impressive part was the aerial bicycle ride, which may seem dangerous but is actually very safe.
Further up, there is an internationally renowned DBD (Double Black Diamond) powder snow run, a section that powder snow enthusiasts go crazy for. Many people come specifically to Tsugaike Highland every year to experience this legendary slope. After skiing, you can directly soak your feet in the foot bath and fully enjoy the relaxation.
Tsugaike Highland Ski Resort website: http://www.tsugaike.gr.jp/
The second ski resort isHakuba Iwatake Ski Resort. This is the lowest-altitude ski resort in Hakuba but offers views of all the peaks of the Northern Alps. Take the gondola to the mountaintop, walk a bit, and you’ll find a spectacular observation deck where you can sit, enjoy the view, and savor delicious pastries, coffee, and craft beer. Hakuba Iwatake has a DC Park, perfect for beginner to intermediate snowboarders to show off their skills. Additionally, Iwatake features a lot of terrain parks with half-pipes, ideal for snowboarders looking to challenge different styles – it’s definitely a paradise for snowboarders.
Features of Iwatake: Unparalleled views from the observation deck + amazing food; Snowboard DC Park; the terrain is the most unique in Hakuba, allowing you to descend from four directions at the mountaintop, plus large beginner-friendly glade runs, perfect for newcomers wanting to tackle tree skiing.
The third resort is the legendaryHappo One (Happo-one). Happo One is the earliest built and largest ski resort in the Hakuba area and also the one with the highest concentration of Australians. The area has a well-developed guesthouse scene and a wide variety of hotel room types. The resort is divided into four zones from west to east, with access to many parking areas. The slopes are not only wide but also moderately challenging, making them perfect for intermediate to advanced skiers. The view from the highest point overlooking the Northern Alps is breathtakingly beautiful.
Features of Happo One: The earliest and largest ski resort in Hakuba; stunning views from the highest point; large dining area with various food options including Starbucks; ideal for intermediate to advanced skiers to train and improve.
After dinner, we returned to Tsugaike Highland to personally experience the 48th annual Snow Festival event. The turnout was huge, blending traditional rituals with modern culture. Not only were sake and rice dumplings handed out, but there were also lively and adorable dance performances by beautiful women to liven up the ceremony. Next came various performances on the slopes: first, children took turns skiing down the mountain, followed by 170 torchbearers divided into three lanes skiing down sequentially, resembling three giant fire dragons from afar. These participants had to book in advance to join the festival.
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Finally, snowmobiles and snow groomer vehicles slowly descended the slopes. Everyone spontaneously applauded for these hardworking resort workers, accompanied by drummers playing taiko drums and traditional Japanese dances. Of course, the highlight of the festival was the fireworks display, lasting about half an hour. Everyone was amazed by the beautiful fireworks, with screams and applause filling the air. We thoroughly enjoyed the spectacle, frequently taking out our phones to capture the moment.
Sunday, February 24, 2019
In the morning, we traveled from Hakuba Koman Hotel toHakuba Goryu Ski Resort. After changing into our ski gear, we took the gondola up to the mid-mountain area and then skied down to the right-hand zone to watch the 46th Hakuba Goryu Youth Ski Race, which started at 9 a.m. The course was intermediate level but slightly more challenging, featuring a straight slope with 14 gates. At the finish line, many parents were gathered, eagerly awaiting their children while cheering on those who performed well. There were also many young competitors who had already finished their runs. One noteworthy aspect was that the race was divided by age groups — the number of gates varied between the elementary school divisions (grades 1–3 and 4–6) and the middle school group. This clear differentiation is highly commendable and offers valuable insights for domestic events.
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After the tour, we headed to the observation deck at the top of the resort, which offered breathtaking views of the Northern Alps. From the other side of the deck, we could also overlook Hakuba Village from above. It’s truly a stunning panorama surrounded by mountains on all sides — one of the most iconic sights in Hakuba. It was Saturday, so the resort was extremely crowded, yet everyone waited in an orderly manner for the gondolas without long delays. On the left side of the mountaintop, a Banked Slalom snowboard competition was underway. The course resembled a chase race, featuring deliberately built banks on both sides to let riders enjoy the thrill of leaning into turns. Competitors followed set routes while navigating various obstacles — a fun and engaging event. Red Bull, as the event sponsor, provided each participant with a can of their drink at the starting point. Beautiful staff members patiently waited for you to finish your drink before chatting a bit about Red Bull products. The organizers really went the extra mile.
After lunch at the bustling restaurant in Goryu Ski Resort, we bid farewell to beautiful Hakuba Village and headed to Tangram Hotel (also known as Tangram Hotel) at Hakuba Highland. After listening to an introduction by the resort manager, we tried out entertainment activities designed for kids and families, including snowmobiles and snow boats. The experienced drivers twisted left and right but didn’t go too fast — still, it was a lot of fun for us passengers, drawing constant laughter. The resort's kids' snow play area was another highlight, fully equipped and warmly designed, with every child finding their favorite activity. Although the hotel and resort were built around 30 years ago, they still look very upscale. The glass and exterior facades appear as if they belong to a brand-new property. When we asked the hotel manager why everything looked so pristine, he explained that it’s because of their meticulous cleaning practices throughout the premises. We then toured the guest rooms, each of which featured modern and stylish furnishings. The VIP lounge in the lobby was thoughtfully laid out, allowing guests to enjoy a cozy family atmosphere or quietly read the newspaper, while also offering views of the snowy landscape through the bright, large windows.
After concluding our tour of Tangram Hotel, we checked into Shiga Kogen’s Shiga Grand Hotel, ending a fulfilling day of activities.
February 25, 2019 (Monday)
After breakfast, we were guided by Shiga Kogen staff toIizuna Ski Resortfor skiing. Shiga Kogen is one of Japan’s largest single ski areas, with numerous interconnected resorts spread across crisscrossing mountain ranges. With just one lift ticket, you can access the entire mountain range. Eager to hit the slopes, we changed into our gear and familiarized ourselves with the runs. After getting a sense of the overall layout, we ventured into the tree runs, where dense and sparse woods offered a fun and varied experience.
After lunch, we wrapped up our time at Shiga Kogen and headed toRyugakuji Ski Resortin North Shiga Kogen. Here, the crowds suddenly increased — the secret? The resort boasts an enormous gondola called the SkyTrain and spectacular mountaintop cloud views. At the summit restaurant, you can try two unique drinks: a latte topped with a cloud-like milk foam, and a lemonade in three colors (yellow, blue, and green), named Morning, Noon, and Evening. Enjoying a delicious drink while taking in the mountain mist after a day on the slopes was truly a blissful experience. Later that evening, we drove to stay at the Prince Hotel Minamiaiki.
Tuesday, February 26, 2019
After a delicious breakfast, we skied at Minami Aiki Ski Resort, tried out the kids’ park, and rode snowmobiles.
Minami Aiki Ski Resort is owned by the Prince Hotel Group and managed uniformly by the hotel. It truly reflects various milestones in the history of Japanese skiing and is considered an iconic destination among the Japanese. The resort has hosted multiple celebrity concerts and stands as a witness to Japan’s booming economic era in the 1980s. The hotel walls chronicle its glorious moments from the 1960s to the present.
After a brief interview with Niigata TV, we concluded our visit to Minami Aiki Ski Resort. We left Niigata Prefecture and returned to Karuizawa Prince Hotel in Nagano Prefecture. There, we visited the luxurious and modern East Building and villas, as well as the popular West Building and log cabins.
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After some shopping at the outlets, we checked into the charming LongingHouse Hotel, located just a 10-minute walk from Karuizawa Station. Established in 1981, the hotel is owned by a passionate and health-conscious individual with a love for life and a humanistic philosophy. For dinner, we sampled fresh vegetables and the local Miyamasaké. The hotel also features an outdoor forest hot spring. Though the number of rooms is limited, each offers a completely different experience.
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February 27, 2019 (Wednesday)
After a healthy and delicious breakfast at LongingHouse in Karuizawa, we set off for JR Karuizawa Station and took the Hokuriku Shinkansen northbound for about two hours to Kanazawa City in Ishikawa Prefecture — the most populous city in the prefecture. Thanks to the climate and ocean currents, the seafood here is not only abundant but also incredibly fresh and delicious. We arrived around noon and, led by staff from the Ishikawa Prefecture Tourism Association, visited a 1,000-year-old sushi restaurant for lunch. The tiny eatery has only ten seats, and reservations are mandatory. All the sushi is made by the chef himself — the fish is sliced to order, and the rice is hand-formed into nigiri. According to the chef, the freshest sushi should be eaten within three seconds of the fish being sliced; after that, the taste deteriorates.[size=9.33333px]Everyone truly experienced the essence of authentic Japanese sushi here.
After the meal, we visited Kenrokuen Garden, one of Japan’s Three Great Gardens and the former retreat of Maeda Toshiie, a powerful feudal lord. Next, we explored Higashi Chaya District, once a geisha district that has now transformed into a area filled with dessert shops, tea houses, specialty cafes, and souvenir stores. Don’t miss the[size=9.33333px]gold leaf ice cream cones here~
With many Japanese university students currently on spring break, groups of them dressed in kimono came here to relax. Their cheerful chatter added vibrancy to this historic street.
We then visited a gold leaf experience shop, where we observed the craftsmanship behind gold leaf production. After learning about its history, each of us had the chance to choose a mold and create our own gold leaf craft.
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After the experience, we traveled about an hour from Kanazawa City toIriyama Plateau Ski Resortin Hakusan City. Just a day in the city, and now we were back in the deep mountains. After checking into a hotel across from the ski resort, we gradually got to know Iriyama Plateau. Nestled in a quiet highland forest with a sparse population, it sees far fewer visitors compared to Nagano and Niigata. However, the area is rich in local produce, has fresh air, and is especially famous for its hot springs. The wooden building housing the hotel’s restaurant is over 1,000 years old. In the hotel lobby, there’s a preserved black bear specimen and ancient rain capes hanging on the walls. That evening, we were fortunate to enjoya traditional Japanese irori hearth barbecue and a classic Japanese dinner, sampling Hida beef and wild boar from the region..
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February 28, 2019 (Thursday)
After having a Japanese breakfast at the hotel in the morning, we visited Iriyama Plateau Ski Resort across the street. Unfortunately, the weather was not on our side as it had been raining since early morning. Since it was a weekday, the resort was also quite deserted with very few people around. The manager of the ski resort explained that during this time of year in previous years, the mountains would be covered in thick snow, but this year the weather has been warmer, and by the end of February, the snow quality had already deteriorated significantly, which is why there weren’t many visitors this year.
The nearest airport is Komatsu Airport, which is about a 40-minute drive from Iriyama Plateau. Upon arriving at Komatsu Airport, you can see hangars for military aircraft, showing that Japan has truly maximized the use of space.
Currently, only China Eastern Airlines operates flights from Shanghai Pudong to Komatsu Airport. Visitors from Shanghai can easily reach Iriyama Plateau from Komatsu and can also visit Shirakawa-go and Kanazawa along the way. Domestic travelers from other regions can only get here via Chubu Centrair International Airport in Nagoya or Tokyo. After the visit, we drove to Komatsu Airport and took a domestic flight to Tokyo Haneda Airport before returning to Beijing, thus concluding this ski resort inspection trip in Japan.
We would like to express our gratitude to the Nagano Prefecture Tourism Bureau, Niigata Prefecture Tourism Bureau, Ishikawa Prefecture Tourism Bureau, Japan JTB, and all the ski resorts and hotels for their warm hospitality and detailed introductions during this inspection.
Thank you to our fellow travelers for providing relevant text and photos.