The Quirky Small Towns of the Malay Peninsula

Written by Qianli Zhui Feng (China National Travel Magazine) Photos Xiong Yineng

　　 Special thanks to Malaysia Tourism Board Shanghai Office, Tongcheng Travel, Ipoh Lost Paradise

　　 Introduction:

　　  On July 22, Malaysian Prime Minister Tun Mahathir unveiled the logo for the 2020 Malaysia Year of Tourism, marking the official launch of promotional efforts for the 2020 tourism campaign. The new tourism year emblem features the hornbill, hibiscus, wild ferns, and the colors of the national flag as its main design elements. Through the promotion of the tourism year, Malaysia aims to showcase its beautiful cultural heritage, hospitality, and abundant natural tourism resources to the world. The goal of the 2020 tourism year is to attract 30 million international visitors to Malaysia.

　　  As a globally renowned holiday destination, Malaysia is widely known for its stunning islands, charming beaches, exotic underwater worlds, as well as sunshine, rainforests, and delicious cuisine... Yet my curiosity drove me to discover more of the country’s lesser-known natural and cultural wonders. During this 6-day, 5-night trip, I deliberately avoided those popular Instagram spots and visited several off-the-beaten-path cities in western Malaysia.

　　 Main Text:

　　 Venturing into a “Black Gold” Town

　　 The plane landed in Kuantan, the largest city on the east coast of the Malay Peninsula. As I stepped out of the cabin, the brilliant sunlight and the unique hot and humid air of the equator immediately enveloped me. As soon as our car left the airport, it drove into dense palm groves. Palm trees are Malaysia’s pride, covering one-third of the country’s cultivated land area. Malaysia is the world’s largest producer of palm oil, with output accounting for nearly 45% of the global total. About 40 minutes later, the rural road turned into winding mountain paths, and we arrived at one of Malaysia’s most picturesque towns—Ling Ming.

　　 Ling Ming is situated in a mountain basin. Most of the town’s houses are wooden bungalows with colorful roofs and walls. The sounds of chickens and dogs create a leisurely and peaceful rural atmosphere. The town’s most famous attractions are the sea of clouds over the Central Mountain Range and waterfalls surrounded by rainbows. There is also a legendary century-old tin mine.

　　 The Ling Ming Tin Mine Museum is an Anglo-Malay style building, elegant and understated, resembling a holiday villa. However, the statue of a miner’s hat at the entrance and the red double-wheel fire extinguisher used inside the mines tell us this is a place with a story. The eastern tin belt of Malaysia, where Ling Ming is located, was once the largest tin vein in Southeast Asia. In the late 19th century, British companies leased the area for mining at a rate of one cent per year. Large numbers of Chinese laborers risked their lives to venture into the dark and perilous mines to extract “black gold”—tin. Over a hundred years, Ling Ming produced 13 million tons of tin ore, which could yield 150,000 tons of pure tin, worth 2 billion USD. The continuous digging by Chinese laborers extended the mine tunnels underground to 300 kilometers, with a vertical depth of 700 meters, making it the world’s second-largest tin mine. At its peak, it employed over 3,000 workers. During World War II, the British closed the mine and dismissed the miners. After the war, operations resumed, but in 1986, the collapse in tin prices led to the mine company’s bankruptcy, and Ling Ming gradually faded into obscurity.

　　 The tin mine museum displays former mining tools—crude and weathered—that evoke a sense of the passage of time and the harsh, dangerous conditions of mining back then. Mining relied entirely on manual labor. After Chinese laborers blasted tunnels, they chiseled away at the tin ore on the rock walls with their tools, then transported it layer by layer to the surface. Due to unstable geology, mine collapses were frequent, and miners called themselves “earning money in hell and spending it in heaven.” I saw a 3D sculpture depicting the full view of the mine tunnels, which had 14 levels underground, resembling the tangled roots of a giant tree or a scene from a sci-fi movie. Today, most of the tunnels have collapsed, and only the first level is open to visitors. Boarding a small train with completely open sides, we entered the deep, damp mine. Along the way, we saw some tin figurines recreating the mining scenes of the past, as well as pulley devices that gave a sense of the weight the miners had to haul manually. Standing before the last remaining section of the unmined tunnel, I seemed to hear the clamorous sounds of a bustling mine a century ago and felt the immense difficulty the Chinese laborers faced in advancing even a meter underground.

　　 Stepping out of the industrial relic that stirred nostalgia, I saw the former mining area transformed into a leisure countryside shaded by greenery and filled with birdsong—a scene like another world.

　　 Tips:

　　 Special Recommendations

　　 1. Suspension Bridges

　　 Ling Ming is situated by a large river, and residents on both banks mainly cross via three suspension bridges. The bridges sway gently, and while tourists tread carefully, locals ride bicycles and motorcycles across them boldly. Near the bridges, you can try two local delicacies: “Shanshui Douhua” (mountain-water tofu pudding), made from local tofu, which is famous for its lack of beany flavor, smooth and tender texture, and subtle sweetness; and Ling Ming noodles, which have a slightly alkaline taste and a smooth, chewy texture.

　　 2. Batik

　　 In Kuantan, you can experience traditional batik dyeing using beeswax, where patterns are drawn on fabric with wax and then dyed into colorful cloth. Clothing made from this fabric is very cool and perfect for island climates.

　　 3. Accommodation

　　 Behind the Swiss-Garden Beach Resort in Kuantan, there is a private beach that is especially pleasant in the evening when the monsoon breeze blows gently.

　　 Walking the Wild Trail

　　 From Kuantan in eastern Pahang to Raub in the west, along the way, we fed wild Asian elephants at the Elephant Conservation Centre, visited sea turtles at Chendor Bay, and stayed at the Gambang Safari Park in Gambang Villa, dining with white lions—getting a glimpse of the wild side of western Malaysia.

　　 It is estimated that Malaysia currently has only about 1,000 wild Asian elephants left, listed as “Endangered” on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. Early one morning, we arrived at the Kuala Gandah Elephant Conservation Centre, the only sanctuary in Malaysia dedicated to caring for stray wild elephants. The park hadn’t yet opened, and one of our companions launched a drone to take a sneak peek, but suddenly a staff member ran out from the dense jungle, gesturing anxiously to tell us that the drone noise might scare the elephants and asking us to land it as soon as possible. It seems the elephants here are well cared for.

　　 The elephant enclosure has a grassy field where the elephants feed and stroll, next to a feeding area for baby elephants. The baby elephants, over a meter tall, are not afraid of people. They stretch their trunks through the fence to deftly pick peanuts from our palms and let out adorable trumpeting sounds. Four adult elephants slowly walked to the middle of the field to begin eating. They have huge appetites, consuming about 300 kilograms of fresh feed each per day. Wild elephant herds often have to move to find food sources, traveling 18–20 hours a day. By the river near the conservation center, a group of baby elephants were playing in the water, rolling around and butting heads with the caretakers. Their dark skin shimmered brilliantly in the morning sunlight. I silently hoped that more people would come to appreciate the beauty of wild creatures and do their part to improve the environment.

　　There are six turtle nesting areas along Malaysia’s coastline, and Chendor Bay is one of them. The turtle conservation center here is home to large sea turtles that have been rescued due to injuries, as well as many just-hatched baby turtles the size of a palm, crowding together and swimming around—absolutely adorable. After mother turtles lay their eggs on the beach and return to the sea, staff carefully collect the ping-pong ball-sized eggs and let them hatch safely in sand nests within the conservation center. The hatchlings live in a large pool for a while before being released back into the sea under the cover of night.

　　At the wildlife park in Gambang Hill Resort, Kuantan, you can see over 400 species of rare animals from around the world, including Malaysia’s national treasures like the Malayan tapir and Malayan tiger, as well as lions, kangaroos, ostriches, zebras, giraffes, and American camels. The animal theater here is ingeniously designed—the “stage” is in a wild state, with natural bushes and lakes as the backdrop. The animal “actors” take the stage one after another in an orderly fashion to the rhythm of music: four Malayan porcupines march single file down the narrow steps in front of the “stage,” neither running nor stopping, because a string of treats has been placed on the steps. The little creatures munch their way through to the backstage amid the audience’s laughter. Then, seven or eight pelicans fly in from the side of the stage, fold their huge wings, and dive into the lake, putting on a vivid fishing show. Next, a gibbon swings across the “stage” along a vine and grabs a banana at the finish line. A leopard pounces out from the bushes, climbs up high, and finds a chicken leg. A Malayan tiger dives into the lake, swims around, and finally gets its piece of meat… The animals showcase their natural behaviors while enjoying their favorite treats. Visitors are mesmerized by their innate “performances” and deeply moved by the respect the behind-the-scenes staff show for the animals and their humorous, intelligent approach. In the evening, dine at the resort’s “Simba Restaurant,” where the floor-to-ceiling windows offer a view of the territory of the world’s rare white lion king, allowing you to observe this majestic wild animal up close while enjoying your meal.

　　Tips:

　　Special Notes

　　1. The Kuala Gandah Elephant Conservation Center is located in the central part of the Malay Peninsula. Most of the elephants here were rescued by staff from various corners of the peninsula. Bold visitors can accompany the elephants into the river for a cool bath.

　　2. During the turtle egg-laying season from April to August each year, you can experience the turtle release process at the Chendor Bay Turtle Conservation Center by making a reservation.

　　3. When visiting Gambang Hill, it’s recommended to stay overnight at the Kuantan Arabian Gulf Resort. You can explore the nighttime jungle, visit the nocturnal zoo, and enjoy a fire show and an Indiana Jones theater performance.

　　24-Hour Sensory Feast

　　The durian is the king of fruits, and Malaysia’s Musang King is the king of durians. The durians produced in Raub District, Pahang, are the finest among Musang Kings. We journeyed through the deep mountains between the eastern slopes of the Titiwangsa Range and the western slopes of the Gunung Bunga Buah Range, bumping along a narrow, one-car-width dirt road, all just to seek out this most legendary fruit in Malaysia.

　　Arriving at the hidden Musang King orchard nestled in the forest, the middle-aged orchard owner, Tang Tsheng San, greeted us with a smile. When we asked what varieties of durian we could try that day, he said mysteriously, “It depends on fate.” It turns out that the durians here are harvested only when “fully ripe and naturally fallen.” They must be left to ripen completely on the tree and fall naturally—never artificially ripened or picked early. Tang Tsheng San spent years searching for promising durian varieties across Malaysia. Finally, in 1991, he discovered the then-obscure “Kunyit” (Turmeric), which is now the globally adored Musang King.

　　We were lucky—12 different varieties of durian were collected from the orchard that day, varying in size, color, and shape, laid out in a row, quite a spectacle. China only officially approved the import of frozen whole Malaysian durians in June 2019. Before that, the main variety available was the Thai “Golden Pillow,” often picked unripe. Now, tasting 12 fresh varieties in one go was like unleashing a top-tier feast for the taste buds: “Red Prawn” had an exceptionally delicate texture, almost no fiber, and tasted as sweet as honey; “Red Flesh” was sweet with a unique herbal note; “Sultan” had a smooth yet slightly dry texture; the legendary Musang King had golden, creamy flesh like ice cream, sweet with a hint of bitterness and a rich coffee-like aftertaste—one bite and you couldn’t stop.

　　Leaving Raub, we drove up the winding mountain road to Genting Highlands, which sits at an altitude of 1,772 meters. Here lies Malaysia’s largest entertainment hub, “Genting World,” including three theme parks: Genting Outdoor Theme Park, First World Indoor Theme Park, and the water park. Each theme park engages all your senses, fully immersing you in the wonders of high technology: “SnowWorld” creates a snow kingdom at -7°C, with igloo domes, speed skiing, and snow play areas that delight both adults and children; “Jurassic Adventure” recreates a 190-million-year-old primeval jungle in its experience zone, where various dinosaurs blink their eyes and might even suddenly snap at you; The Void is one of the world’s earliest developers of multi-person free-roam VR theme parks. Their first foray into the Asian market was at Genting World. In the fully immersive experience center, I donned a special headset, a backpack computer, and a haptic vest, and found myself in outer space, battling in “Star Wars” with my teammates, piloting a spaceship to land on a lava-spewing alien planet, solving one mystery after another, and feeling the realistic impacts of spaceship explosions and spiders crawling all over me...

　　Tips:

　　Special Notes

　　1. When is Malaysian durian at its best?

　　June and July are the peak months for Malaysian durian ripeness. Although it’s available in other months, the durians from these two months are the best. Local varieties ripen and fall naturally, and are best consumed within two days.

　　2. What challenging experiences are available at Genting Highlands?

　　You can try the Genting Skydiving Simulator, Asia’s only free-fall skydiving simulation facility, or the international-standard 15-meter-high climbing wall at Genting, with a 6-meter overhang.

　　Leisure-loving visitors also have plenty of options. The Genting International Showroom often features fantastic performances, such as magical magic shows and elegant figure skating. At “First World Plaza,” you can shop to your heart’s content and dine at numerous upscale restaurants.

　　Reliving Nanyang Charm

　　Ipoh is Malaysia’s fourth-largest city, about 200 kilometers from Kuala Lumpur. This city is not well-known among Chinese tourists and sees relatively few visitors, but it’s the place I’ll remember most from my trip to Malaysia.

　　Ipoh was one of the earliest places where Chinese settlers arrived in Nanyang. Walking the streets, many locals can chat with us directly in Mandarin or Cantonese, creating an instant sense of familiarity. The old town of Ipoh largely retains its appearance from the early 20th century. The old buildings bear the textures and tactile qualities shaped by time, with little later modification and almost no commercialization. When Ang Lee was filming “Lust, Caution,” he sought the old Hong Kong street scenes described by Eileen Chang, but Hong Kong’s historic streets had long been demolished. Later, he discovered Ipoh and struck gold, eventually shooting many scenes here.

　　Ipoh is also famous for its Chinese cuisine. The most iconic is “Lau Wong Ah Yat Chicken,” which opened in 1962. At noon, the restaurant is bustling, but our table was the only one with out-of-towners—the rest were locals. The owner laughed and said, “We’re often packed until 11 p.m.” We ordered the signature steamed chicken and Ipoh bean sprouts. The chicken skin was crispy and tender, the meat juicy and smooth, and the bean sprouts were much thicker and whiter than elsewhere, crisp and fresh—reportedly thanks to Ipoh’s uniquely pure water.

　　Ipoh’s “Lost World of Tambun” is one of Malaysia’s largest water parks, featuring multiple themed zones including a mini zoo, Tiger Valley, Tin Valley, Adventure Park, and natural hot springs. On the jungle trails of the immersive wildlife park, you’ll encounter flamingos, giraffes, hippos, crocodiles, raccoons, and more. Explore the fluorescent forest at night, like stepping into the vibrant alien world of “Avatar,” where blue glowing jellyfish float among the trees with countless tentacles, and countless colorful flowers, lingzhi mushrooms, and toadstools bloom underfoot... The fire performance starting at 9 p.m. is breathtaking—the “Fire King” swallowing fire draws screams of amazement.

　　Tips:

　　Special Recommendations

　　Ipoh is the birthplace of Malaysian white coffee, with famous brands like “OldTown.” White coffee is made using Ipoh Chinese people’s unique roasting method: blending premium Liberica, Arabica, and Robusta beans with artificial butter and roasting them at low to medium heat. Without the charred bitterness and sourness from high-temperature carbon roasting, it minimizes the coffee’s bitterness, acidity, and caffeine content. The result is a smooth taste, light and soft color, with a faint milky golden hue—hence the name.

　　Special Notes

　　1. Bags are checked upon entry to Lost World of Tambun. Outside food and drinks are not allowed.

　　2. The park has a food street modeled after Ipoh’s old streets, where you can try traditional Ipoh snacks, Malaysian Nyonya flavors, and a variety of fruit ice creams.

　　3. Staying at a hotel included in the "Lost Paradise" package allows you to enter the night session for free, and you can enjoy a 10% discount on daytime tickets.

　　Encounter a Mountain and Sea Wonderland

　　Beyond its numerous islands and peninsulas, the mountain ranges stretching from north to south in western Malaysia also conceal many natural wonders. About 24 kilometers south of Ipoh lies the Coconut Shell Cave, arguably the most spectacular natural limestone cave in Malaysia. Stretching approximately 2 kilometers from east to west, the cave is entered through a mountain pass, feeling like you’re gradually burrowing into the belly of a giant beast on an adventure. Above the Coconut Shell Cave are five massive domes, resembling the shape of a coconut shell—hence the cave’s name. Inside, there are white marble formations and limestone tower caves, with some towering stalagmites as high as a 40-story building. It’s said that stalagmites grow just 1 centimeter every 200 years, meaning these water-dripped giants have existed for hundreds of millions of years. The guide led us out of the illuminated viewing area into the untouched, raw parts of the cave. In a shallow, narrow stream, we spotted tiny, silvery metallic particles. The guide explained that locals call this metal “shit gold,” which can be found in small rivers and streams around the area. It’s only about 4.8 million years old and will need hundreds of millions of years more to evolve into valuable platinum. The Coconut Shell Cave also offers another way to explore, ideal for thrill-seeking outdoor enthusiasts: there’s an underground river inside the cave where you can wade in by jumping into the water. In some spots, the water reaches chest level, offering a true sense of adventure. Waterway exploration must also be guided—otherwise, it’s easy to get lost in the winding cave passages.

　　Deep within the Strait of Malacca lies another natural wonder, known as Malaysia’s “Mirror of the Sky.” This beach, called Sasaran, usually appears as an ordinary expanse of sea. But for four days around the first and fifteenth days of the lunar month, when the tides recede, a sandbank emerges in the middle of the sea, visible for only three hours each day. We set off from the dock by speedboat at around 5:00 a.m. Forty minutes later, the boat slowed and came to a stop in the sea. I stepped down the gangway and tentatively dipped my foot into the water—it only reached my ankles, revealing a soft gray tidal flat beneath. Looking around, the endless sky and sea seemed to merge seamlessly. As the sun rose, pink morning light cast across the mirror-like water, making me feel as though I was standing in a two-dimensional space, gazing at the boundary of time and space.

　　Tips:

　　Special Notes

　　1. After visiting Coconut Shell Cave, you can also visit the agriculture-focused town of Sekinchan, about a two-hour drive away. The town is by the sea, and during harvest season, you can see vast expanses of rice fields, perfect for photography. It’s also a great place to enjoy seafood and fresh fruit.

　　2. The sandbank of the “Mirror of the Sky” appears at different times each day, so it’s best to check with the dock staff in advance. A bit of luck is also needed. Usually, the speedboat operators also offer photography services free of charge.

　　Article Source：China National Travel Magazine