On the 18th, I joined the Diya Mount Everest Expedition Team in Tibet and trained with the whole group. After more than 20 days of effort, my physical condition improved significantly. During the final mountain training session before leaving Lhasa—a 20-plus-kilometer trek—I was able to keep up with the team.
Before setting off, I brushed my teeth for the first time and washed my face for the first time
Since arriving at the Mount Everest base camp on the 14th, this was the first time I had properly brushed my teeth and washed my face. For a moment, I felt unusually refreshed.
Passing through Shigatse and Dingri to reach the Everest Base Camp, I felt great with no signs of altitude sickness. Early on the 17th, Dong Fan, the expedition’s overall commander, suddenly said to me, “Try the intermediate camp adaptation training tomorrow.” My heart raced, and I was left speechless.
On the 18th, I woke up very early, crawling out of the tent shortly after 8 a.m. Using the leftover overnight hot water saved specially in my water bottle, I brushed my teeth carefully; then I dampened a towel to wipe my face. This was the first time since arriving at the Everest Base Camp on the 14th that I had properly brushed my teeth and washed my face. I suddenly felt extremely energized.
I packed my gear again. Items such as down jackets, windbreakers, water bottles, and trail meals were neatly arranged, weighing around 10 kilograms in total. I was ready to go at any time.
On the ascent, the scree slope was steep and treacherous, so we gained an extra half hour
At 10:40 a.m., our team of 19 set off.
The valley entrance on the east side of the base camp is the only way in. Entering the valley, we were greeted by a stretch of boulder-strewn gully—there was nothing but more and bigger rocks. Among the rocks, a small path had been trodden out. Not far into the walk, a caravan of yaks came toward us. Following the mountain custom of yielding to yaks, we quickly stepped aside.
Wading through the boulders, a lake could be faintly seen in the distance. Walking while admiring the view was quite relaxing, and it took about an hour to reach the second checkpoint.
The scree slope—the most difficult part of the journey. Amid a mountainside full of loose rocks, a narrow path twisted and turned, with some sections steeper than 70 degrees. Moving forward cautiously and with great effort, the right side was a roughly 100-meter drop—if you slipped, the consequences would be dire.
Exhaustion and tension brought on the first extreme fatigue quickly. After just two or three steps, I had to stop and gasp for air, yet the air never seemed to make it to my lungs. We had walked less than 40 minutes on this slope, yet my inner clothing was already soaked. When we passed through the mountain pass and were hit by the wind, it was bone-chilling.
Fortunately, the scree slope wasn’t long, and soon we were walking through the valley again. Having overcome the first extreme fatigue, things felt a bit easier. The path extended along the icy river, sometimes the river itself serving as the route, crunching underfoot. Unknowingly, more than half the journey was behind us.
Emerging from the icy river, we encountered yet another scree slope. One after another, the terrain grew higher. While climbing, the second extreme fatigue hit. I was almost stopping with every step, my entire body leaning on my two trekking poles, panting like a bellows, yet never getting enough air.
It was already past 2 p.m., nearly four hours after we set off. Niu Xiaohong, the deputy team leader, said that regardless of whether we reached the intermediate camp, we’d have to turn back and descend by 3 p.m. I gritted my teeth and said, “Give me just half an hour more. The opportunity is rare, and it’d be a shame to give up.”
We pressed on. The teammates ahead had long disappeared from view, leaving only the stragglers like us walking alone. Suddenly, a few Sherpa support staff appeared around the corner up ahead. I quickly asked, “How much farther to 5,800?” “Not far, almost there.”
Overjoyed, my strength suddenly returned. But after rounding the hillside, there was yet another slope after slope. After what felt like “just around the corner” for over half an hour, finally, yellow and white patches appeared on the distant ridge—that was our destination.
At 3:30 p.m., we arrived at the 5,800-meter intermediate camp of Mount Everest. Upon entering the tent, the teammates who had arrived earlier applauded in unison and gave us a collective thumbs-up.
Returning to the Base Camp, a Teammate Slips and Faces Danger, Nearly Losing Hope at the Last Moment
After resting for half an hour, it felt like we hadn’t even caught our breath before it was time to descend.
At 4 p.m., we began the journey back.
The initial part of the return was still relatively easy. But before long, our legs felt like they were filled with lead, moving one step at a time. A large herd of yaks emerged from the pass ahead, so we stepped aside. As soon as we sat down, Niu Xiaohong and I both let out long yawns involuntarily—our bodies were simply too exhausted. We hadn’t taken more than a few steps when Niu Xiaohong slipped and sat down on the slope. Teammates Zhang Jun and Zhang Jiarong reacted quickly, grabbing him just in time. Looking at the scree slope beside the path, everyone broke into a cold sweat.
Regaining our composure, our team of five continued downward. The descent was not as easy as we had imagined; our backpacks felt heavier and heavier, eventually seeming like they were made of stone. Zhang Jiarong offered to carry some of my load. After an intense internal struggle, I “reluctantly” refused—how could I endure even this little hardship if I aimed to reach the advance camp at 6,500 meters?
Finally, we reached the last stretch of the boulder-strewn gully. The section that had felt easy and pleasant on the way up now revealed its devilish side. Endless rocks, stepping uncertainly forward, yet the sight of “home” remained elusive.
“Just 10 minutes to go.” We encouraged each other amid the pain, with one thought in mind: hold on, just one more minute.
Finally, at the edge of our vision, appeared the public toilet on the north side of the Everest Base Camp. It was truly a welcome sight.
At 8:20 p.m., after nearly 10 hours of effort, we were finally home.