The development of climbing routes on the Shiyang Pass cliff in Xi’an saw Zhang Yong using KAILAS insight climbing ropes throughout the process
Panoramic view of the extended developed routes on the Shiyang cliff
In the Xi’an area, most cliffs feature ancient and uniquely textured granite, similar to that found in Beijing’s Baihe Canyon—characterized by small holds, hard surfaces, and slipperiness. This demands excellent flexibility, balance, technique, and strong mental resilience from climbers. Though the granite is clean and beautiful, it is also very sharp. The route-setting team ultimately selected a crag and decided to develop some multi-pitch routes based on the local rock characteristics.
The Tough Route Setting: Hard Granite Walls
Route discussions under the cliff
Due to the extreme hardness of the rock, the conditions for setting routes were very challenging—hands got sore, drills ran out of power, and people were physically exhausted... Sometimes, setting a long route meant spending days working on the sharp, hard rock. What would take just over 40 holes with a hammer drill on limestone had to make do with just over 10 on the Xi’an granite, a fact that team member Lei Feng experienced “very deeply.” He had to shuttle non-stop between the hotel and the cliff every day to charge drills for Zhang Yong and other team members. But he remained enthusiastic. Route setting wasn’t the end goal—the real joy was getting close to nature and enjoying the thrill of climbing. In their spare time, the team would sometimes find a good spot to rig up a slackline and indulge in some highlining.
Dedicated Lei Feng
When the painted markings on the cliff faded, the team bought paint to refresh them and make them more visible.
When news broke of the tragic death of Yan Dongdong, a pioneer of Chinese amateur mountaineering,Yan Dongdongthe China Climb route-setting team immediately decided to name a new route set by Zhang Yong “Freedom Soul” (5.10d), in honor of the climber who made outstanding contributions to China’s climbing community.Yan Dongdong“Nothing can stop our longing for freedom!” said Zhang Yong.
Starting on June 20, from Yangshuo to Leye, from Xi’an to Quzhou, from Yingxi to Zhongguo, at every new and old cliff across the land, the KAILAS China Climb route-setting team and fellow climbers will not only uncover lesser-known yet top-quality climbing resources but also establish more exciting routes. These efforts aim to attract more climbing enthusiasts to share the joy of scaling cliffs. This summer, KAILAS invites you to join our climbing team in embarking on a 9.6 million square kilometer journey of cliff exploration.
Bonus Flowchart
Premium Stainless Steel: Kailas Hangers and Bolts in Toni’s Hands
While developing new and exciting routes, the Kailas route-setting team has also hidden bonus items on select routes. After enjoying the thrill of climbing, don’t forget to grab the bonus—unscrew it and follow the enclosed rules to participate, and you could win Kailas gear. Follow in the footsteps of the KAILAS China Climb route-setting team and claim your own cliff hold bonus.