▲The cabins in Daxueshan are nestled among the trees, offering a pleasant lodging experience. Each bed is equipped with an electric blanket for warmth. ■ Photo by Chen Zhidong

The Daxueshan Forest Recreation Area features several hiking trails. The most famous is Yuanyui Mountain, followed by Suailai Mountain, but the most popular is the “Yuanyui–Suailai Trail” that runs between the two.

■ Pros and Cons of Hiking from Yuanyui to Suailai or Vice Versa

The Yuanyui–Suailai Trail stretches approximately 6.7 kilometers. The entrance to Suailai Mountain is located near the toll station at the 35K mark on the Daxueshan Forest Road, while Yuanyui Mountain is at the 27K mark—you can choose either as your starting point.

Hiking from Yuanyui to Suailai involves over two-thirds uphill sections, which can be exhausting to the point of tears, and takes at least six hours to complete. The advantage is that the area usually gets foggy around noon. Starting early from Yuanyui Mountain increases your chances of seeing the vast mountain vistas and the sea of azaleas, and you can also bypass the toll station, saving you the 200 NT admission fee.

Hiking from Suailai to Yuanyui involves only one-third uphill, making it feel relatively easier. It takes about five hours to finish the whole trail. The downside is that if you start early in the morning and finish the easier part up Suailai before reaching Yuanyui, you’ll likely arrive around noon—just when the fog sets in. Not only will you miss the mountain views, but you’ll also have to climb the daunting Yuanyui Mountain in the thick fog. Both paths have their pros and cons.

Ranger Lu Zhihua says that if you’re worried about exhaustion, a “cheater’s route” is to start from the Yuanyui Mountain entrance at the 27K mark, hike only the most scenic section of Yuanyui Mountain, and then descend via the fork at the 29K mark. This route takes about 3.5 hours and is well marked throughout.

■ Majestic Red Cypress Forests and Transparent Crystal Orchids

Compared to the thrilling challenge of Yuanyui Mountain, the trail up Suailai Mountain is more similar to typical forest recreation area paths—gentle ascents and descents, stairs, and wooded areas. After climbing Yuanyui Mountain, you might find the Suailai Mountain trail almost like a wide road. But the beauty of Suailai lies in its diverse flora and rich birdlife.

Daxueshan is known as Taiwan’s “bird buffet,” home to 107 bird species, including 14 endemic to Taiwan. It’s also one of the easiest places in the country to spot wild Mikado Pheasants and Swinhoe’s Pheasants. Especially at the 23K and 47K points along the Daxueshan Forest Road, these birds appear almost daily like clockwork commuters. During early morning or evening fog, many photography enthusiasts gather here, cameras in tow.

Ranger Zhuang Yi mentions that apart from various birds such as the Formosan Blue Magpie, White-eared Sibia, Chestnut-backed Forktail, Yellow Tit, and Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler, the Suailai Trail occasionally sees animals like Formosan Serows, goats, and Taiwanese flying squirrels. Lu Zhihua once even spotted a Swinhoe’s Pheasant.

The Suailai Trail also boasts magnificent red cypress forests. In late spring and early summer, you might also catch a glimpse of the adorable, translucent “Crystal Orchids,” which are entirely devoid of chlorophyll.

Daxueshan INDEX

★ Daxueshan National Forest Recreation Area / 04-25877901 / Holiday lodging: 3,000 NT, weekday lodging: 1,800 NT (both include breakfast and dinner) / Holiday admission: 200 NT, non-holiday: 150 NT, meals: 150 NT per person / http://tsfs.forest.gov.tw