For 22-year-old Zhang Yuanshi, a social sciences student at Tunghai University, Taiwan’s peaks over 3,000 meters are a vibrant paradise. Four years ago, he conquered the 6,900-meter Aconcagua in South America, awestruck by its majestic and desolate scenery. This time, with a pilgrim’s heart, he is taking on the 8,000-meter Broad Peak, preparing to journey into the Karakoram Range — the highest temple of mountaineering.
“Climbing is something you do with your ‘life.’ I am moved by the mountains — it’s hard to put into words, you have to go to understand,” Zhang said. “My philosophy is to climb an even cooler mountain. This time, I’m taking on more of a learning role, hoping to be helpful. Though I’d love to reach the summit, the team’s success comes first.”
The Odysseys World 8,000m Climbing Team set off on the 20th. Among the six climbers on this expedition, Zhang Yuanshi is the youngest and indeed has much to learn. Jiang Xiu-zhen, the first woman to complete the Seven Summits and both sides of Everest, also said she sees herself in Zhang and hopes to pass on her experience by supporting him.
Zhang Yuanshi also regards mountaineers like Jiang Xiu-zhen as idols. In particular, his bold decision in high school to self-fund a trip to conquer Aconcagua was inspired by them. “When I saw what the Odysseys Seven Summits team had done, I was so envious — but I couldn’t join because I was under 18. Now, I can finally be part of the climbing team!”
Since high school, Zhang has been self-funding his expeditions and challenging high peaks. Aside from battling altitude, he also communicated with his mother and girlfriend, even bringing them along on climbs to gain their support. To take on his first 8,000-meter peak, he took a year off from university. “It’s not escapism, it’s a kind of recharge. Every time I come down from the mountains, it makes me even more eager to face life!”
Broad Peak is the world’s 12th highest peak, located on the border between Pakistan and Xinjiang. As of 2009, only 381 people had successfully summited it, with 21 deaths — making it more difficult and dangerous than even Everest.