Li Xiaoshi, the eccentric mountaineer who once carried a statue of Mazu to Mount Everest, successfully summited Nepal’s Lhotse, the world’s fourth-highest peak, but reportedly fell into a coma due to exhaustion. Yesterday, his family and friends initially received news of his death, only to be later informed that he was still alive. An international mountaineering team is assisting in his evacuation, while his wife, Lin Qingqing, and fellow climbers have booked flights and are expected to arrive in Kathmandu, Nepal’s capital, by the 20th at the earliest.
A 58-year-old who once carried a Mazu statue to Everest
The 58-year-old Li Xiaoshi is from Matsu and currently resides in Puzi, Chiayi County. In 2009, he carried a statue of Mazu to the world’s highest peak, Mount Everest, and in 2011, he climbed the eighth-highest peak, Manaslu, making him the only Taiwanese to have scaled two of the world’s ten highest peaks. This year, he challenged Lhotse, the fourth-highest peak.
At 10:30 AM yesterday, Li’s family and friends received a text message from a Kathmandu-based mountaineering company informing them of his death, while his fellow climbers’ Facebook pages also announced the tragic news, stating, “According to his wishes, he will remain in the mountains.” However, at around 11:27 AM, they received corrected information: Li was weak and unconscious but still conscious.
False Death Report; Wife to Rush to Nepal
Due to poor satellite communication in the area, direct contact with Li was impossible, and the messages from the mountaineering company were confusing. Lin Qingqing and her family were in distress, praying earnestly for Mazu’s protection for Li’s safe return. Around 4 PM, fellow climber Lü Hanyue managed to reach Lin Quanming, who was providing support on-site, confirming that Li Xiaoshi was still alive and being assisted by an international mountaineering team and local Sherpa guides.
Lü Hanyue said that Li Xiaoshi encountered an American doctor from the international mountaineering team at Camp IV, who provided him with medication. He is currently weak but conscious. Since helicopters cannot fly at altitudes of 8,000 meters, the international mountaineering team is working to help Li descend to lower-altitude Camp II or III for helicopter rescue.
Lin Qingqing experienced a rollercoaster of emotions throughout the day. Upon hearing the initial news of his death, she was deeply saddened and called the Lienchiang County magistrate without success. She then contacted Li’s elementary school classmate, Mr. Pan, breaking down in tears and unable to speak. It wasn’t until she confirmed that Li was still alive that her worry turned to joy, and she booked flights to Nepal.
Lin Qingqing said this was the most challenging summit attempt for Li Xiaoshi. He loved mountaineering and thrived on high-risk challenges. The couple had discussed it many times, and though she often tried to dissuade him, she couldn’t stop him. She had mentally prepared herself for this. He had decided to return his life to nature, once saying, “If something happens during the climb, don’t rescue me—let me stay on the mountain,” and even mentioned “sea burial.” But no matter the outcome this time, she would have to discuss it with their three children.
Conquering the World’s Fourth-Highest Peak, Fell Unconscious on Descent
Li Xiaoshi, along with fellow climbers Lin Quanming and Lü Hanyue, departed Taiwan on April 8, originally planning to summit between May 10 and 24. Lü returned to Taiwan on the 28th, while Lin provided support at the base camp. Li Xiaoshi and his Sherpa guide set out from Camp IV at 11 PM local time on the 16th, aiming to summit before noon on the 17th. However, Li, suspected to be exhausted and moving slowly, relied on sheer willpower to reach the summit around 9 PM, becoming the first Taiwanese to conquer Lhotse. But he reportedly fell unconscious on the way back.
Lin Qingqing, Lü Hanyue, and Dr. Xiao have booked flights and plan to depart from Kaohsiung on the 20th, transfer in Hong Kong, and arrive in Kathmandu around 10 PM local time.