Text & Photography / Li Xinyi
Recently, a trend of work-exchange stays has emerged in Jinguashi, where local businesses host a two-day, one-night work-exchange event once a month. Due to youth outmigration, these activities were initiated to help preserve the local living environment. This trip, which I joined as part of the Jinguashi work-exchange tour, at first sounded like a tough journey—but it turned out to be the beginning of a path to happiness. Come along with us as we set off toward happiness.
The beautiful mountain-town scenery of Jinguashi is a hidden paradise just a stone’s throw from Taipei.
Opening the handmade Jinguashi map provided by our homestay host, we found roads named Happiness Road, Slow Lane, and Romantic Highway. I’ve never been to a place with so many beautifully named roads—each leading to a destination symbolizing happiness, slowness, or romance.
In this picturesque mountain town of Jinguashi, wandering through its alleys, you’re accompanied by unnamed flowers and the chirping of birds. A turn of the corner might reveal a stunning view where mountain meets sea; or you might stumble upon old Japanese-era houses, their roofs and walls coated in black asphalt for waterproofing—the signature color of this historic mountain settlement. Take your time to admire and savor it all. Beneath Jinguashi’s faded gold-rush past, its precious mining heritage and scenic mountain-town beauty are quietly waiting to be revived.
A turn of the corner might reveal a stunning view where mountain meets sea.
Slow Lane.
The moment you hear about gold panning in Jinguashi—especially with gold prices soaring—everyone gets excited. These days, gold panning in Jinguashi is led by Chen Shicheng, a veteran miner with over 60 years of experience, also known locally as Jinguashi’s most active old miner. With him guiding the way, he can effortlessly answer questions about gold panning techniques and the town’s gold-mining history.
It turns out Chen Shicheng started panning for gold in the riverbed at age 16, and by 18, he was working at Taiwan Metal Mining Corp., where he stayed until retiring at 60. He later volunteered at the Gold Museum. When asked why he continues to lead tourists in gold panning experiences, he said he’s relied on gold for a living since his teenage years—used in weddings, decorations, and art, it became an important part of life. For Chen, the value of gold isn’t just about how much money it can fetch, but also the role it plays in life.
The gold panning experience takes place in the Outer Jiufen River at “The Old Miner’s Secret Garden.” Chen Shicheng is the garden’s caretaker. With the help of local volunteers, the garden has gradually taken shape. To accommodate more visitors, the rope-climbing section has been replaced with stairs. The expansive grounds show clear signs of careful upkeep.
Veteran miner Chen Shicheng demonstrates the gold panning process himself.
Chen Shicheng explains that since the sediment dam was built, the amount of gold sand in the river has decreased, though it still flows steadily downstream, bringing joy to gold panning visitors. Typically, river sand is first filtered through felt to trap the gold, then further refined using a hand-cranked sluice box. The visitor experience mainly involves the sluice box. Watch as the veteran miner scoops up sand from the riverbed and places it in the sluice box, shaking it continuously. The heavier gold sand settles at the bottom, and the whole pan glimmers in the sunlight. But don’t get too excited just yet—many of the shiny particles are actually pyrite, commonly known as “fool’s gold.” The real gold sand has a subtler golden hue.
After filtering out the rocks and sand, it doesn’t take long before the sand begins to shimmer brilliantly.
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