Laoganbei’s freshly sliced wagyu ribeye — only the head chef can grill it for you!

Text/Photo by/KUNI

(The wagyu ribeye today is in great condition!)

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Laoganbei (Yanji Flagship Store)
Address: 1F, No. 44, Lane 260, Guangfu South Road, Da’an District, Taipei City
Phone: (02)2751-7338
Hours: 12:00–14:00, 17:00–23:00
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Perhaps due to a fixed impression, most consumers tend to think the flagship store is better than the branches. Of course, this phenomenon is somewhat understandable—not just in Taiwan, but in restaurants across other countries as well. For example, when visiting Hong Kong’s Lei Garden, people would choose the Mong Kok flagship store; if given the chance to eat at Ryugin, they’d rather fly to Japan; even for the faraway Steirereck in Europe, diners try their best to book a table in the Steiermark area.

The Ganbei Group is known in Taiwan for its refined grilled meats, with Laoganbei targeting the premium clientele. While the Xinyi branch is always bustling with business, the top choice among seasoned foodies remains the Yanji flagship store. We made an evening reservation, and although there was a last-minute hiccup, the front-of-house handled the crisis very well. We ordered the Mother’s Day set menu, which included:
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Kimchi
Chef’s special appetizer
Crab meat and avocado organic salad
Today’s steak (upgraded to freshly sliced wagyu ribeye)
Australian wagyu trio
Wagyu pork with marbling
Salted chicken thigh
Scallops
Prawns
Butter mushroom combination
Today’s handmade dessert
Beverage choice: sparkling wine
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(Table seating)

(Sauces plate)

(Sparkling wine from the set menu)

● ETtoday Eastday News reminds you: Don’t drink and drive, don’t drive after drinking.

(Adjustable charcoal grill)

(Freshly sliced wagyu ribeye sprinkled with salt and resting)

(Hungarian Mangalitsa pork)

It all started with the homemade Korean-style kimchi, which was impressive—its well-executed pickling showed the effort behind it. The Japanese-style eel with prawns and asparagus in the appetizer course was somewhat disappointing, as in a high-end restaurant, one doesn’t expect mediocrity. Next, the avocado salad had a surprisingly mild sauce. The crab meat inside was slightly dry and lacked sweetness, suggesting some carelessness in the kitchen.

(Teriyaki eel with shrimp and asparagus)

(Avocado crab organic salad)

(Australian wagyu trio set, salted chicken thigh)

(Korean kimchi)

Today, Aaron was in charge of the grilling, and his technique was quite solid and steady. We started off the meal with Hungarian-style Matsusaka pork to get the appetite going. The chicken thigh was just okay—its saltiness wasn’t quite ideal.

(Matsusaka pork goes on the grill first)

(Fairly average)

(Unlimited supply of lettuce)

The beef brisket had some variation in texture due to differences in cut, but compared to the chuck, it was still more satisfying. The chuck cuts were a bit tough, but thanks to seasoned grilling skills, the juices were well retained.

(Chuck cuts)

One of Laoganbei’s signature offerings has always been its prawns. The front-of-house staff mentioned they were tiger prawns, but they didn’t seem quite like the ones I’ve seen before. Anyway, no time to dwell—time to eat. To be honest, grilling shrimp is really tricky—I’ve only had one satisfying version before, at Wuliu’s flagship store. (Huh? Why is it always the flagship store?) I personally love large prawns—seven to a kilo or higher grade—and rarely dare to grill them at home. At most, I pan-fry or steam them with garlic. Today’s tiger prawns were unusually large. As they went on the grill, I watched Aaron trim them while cooking, peel them, and serve them up, then continue grilling the heads. The flavor was milder than expected—maybe my expectations were just too high.

(The prawns make their appearance)

(Aaron trims while grilling)

(Snow-white shrimp flesh)

(Rather unremarkable mixed mushrooms)

At this point, the ordered chicken donburi arrived. Once the broth was poured over it, the aroma reminded me of the chicken-fat-infused rice from childhood that I missed so much. This is probably not something you should add on lightly—it’s seriously filling.

(Chicken donburi)

(Poured with broth)

Today’s freshly sliced wagyu ribeye was about 300 grams, and the thickness was just right. After sprinkling with salt and letting it rest for a while, the whole meal felt like an endless wait as we watched the salt slowly seep into the meat, the dark color gradually turning vibrant red.

(Salt sprinkled and left to rest, the color gradually turning vibrant red)

Because it’s a high-grade cut, it’s only grilled by supervisors or senior staff at any branch. Aaron didn’t disappoint—he first grilled it to medium-rare, then cut off a piece for me to try. Once I gave the okay, he skillfully sliced the meat into strips and plated it.

Maybe all day long, I was just waiting for this kind of happiness. It’s the same wagyu ribeye, yet it has a completely different style compared to high-end steak restaurants. Through the sweet juices and melting fat, it produces an indescribable kind of deliciousness.

(First, turn up the heat)

(Wagyu goes on the grill)

(Quick flipping and rotating of the grill grate)

(First, trim the edges)

(After approval, slice and plate)

(Maybe all day long, I was just waiting for this kind of happiness)

Although it was only a little past nine and the dessert hadn’t arrived yet, the staff nearby had already started tapping away next to the charcoal grill. The rising ash and annoying noise were a bit off-putting—can’t they wait until the guests finish eating? Fortunately, the matcha ice cream that arrived at this moment helped soothe things, and it was even made in-house. Its delicate texture and appropriate ice crystals, paired with its Eastern aroma, dissolved the earlier discomfort and greasiness.

(The front-of-house staff tapping away by the charcoal grill)

(Homemade matcha ice cream with red bean paste)

Interpreting food through music
Violinist KUNI
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